September 3, 1868. ) 



JOURNAL OF HOBTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GABDENER. 



175 



leaving; ennngh of tliis year's wood to furnish flowering shoota for next. 

 The shoots m:iy iiow be thinned, imd the general pruning niny take place 

 in January. Keep the plant dry at the root in winter, and diminish the 

 supply of water now. 



Prizes foie British Ferns (Ex;i(6i'(or).— According to tho wording of 

 the schedule wo should not have awarded prizes to either of the collfo- 

 tions, for it says " distinct speciey," and there are varietiea in buth. 

 Apart from varieties, which you ilo not specify, wo should think H.'s col- 

 lection the rarest, but the plants in M.'s, if rare varieties, ought to be 

 placed first. IJ.'a is tho best in species, and more in accordance with the 

 schedule than M.'s; hut M.'s variL-tifS of the species named may bo rare, 

 and, if aa good us the species, are better than B.'s. 



Vahiegated Borecole (J. J.).— We do not perceive in what way you 

 have treated the plant?^ wrony, for all that is required is to sow the seed 

 in April in an open situation, to prick-out the plants when large enough 

 to handle, and when of sufticieut size to plant them out where they are 

 to remain, allowing 2 feet distance between the plants every way. The 

 kind of PL'tid f-nuld not be right, and must have been put up by mistake, 

 the Greon or Purplo being sent iu place of the Variegated, which comes 

 true from seed. Vour plants ought by this time to have shown variegation. 

 Scarlet Kunner Roots Storing versus SEED■Sow^NG (Idfm>.— Scarlet 

 Runner roots may bo taken up in autumn before frost, or after slight 

 frots, and bo stored in dry aand iu a cellar secure from froat. The roots, 

 planted in the end of April or beginning of May, grow well, and give 

 pods earlier than those from seed ; but we find those from seed give the 

 finest pods and longest continuance of crop, and on that account prefer 

 sowing seed t'l keeping the roots of the old plants. 



Gatherinu Everlasting Flowers (J. A.).— They should ho gathered 

 or cut a few days after the flower is fully expanded, but not until the 

 flower stem is rather stiff. 



Compost for Vine Borders (Tnquirer). —There are varions opinions 

 on the subject, which we shall shortly note more fully, but hope to meet 

 your case by naming an excellent compost for the Vine. The bottom of 

 the border must be concreted, or the roots prevented from passing below 

 it by a floor of flagstones, or bricks or tiles run in cement. There must 

 be a drain to carry oflF water that may not be required by the roots, and 

 which would remain stagnant iu ihe soil. It must have a proper fall 

 and outlet. On the bottom a thickness of 9 inches of stones, brickbats, 

 or other open material should be placed, and on this a layer of turf, 

 grass side downwards. This may bo said to be the foundation, only it is 

 desirable to have the border quite as much above as below the surround- 

 ing ground level, and to have a wall all round to prevent the roots escap- 

 ing from the border, or other roots entering. Then put in the following 

 compost fully 2 feet 6 inches deep :— Turf from an old pasture where the 

 soil is a good light rather than heavy loam, pared-ofT 2 or 3 inches thick, 

 according to its strength of fibre, aiid cut into squares of about 6 inches, 

 of thisten barrowfuls ; place it in a heap, to which add two barrowfuls 

 of lime rubbish from an old building, taking care to pick out the pieces 

 of timber, ene barrowful of gritstone in pieces about the size of a hen's 

 egg, one barrowful of lump charcoal, one barrowful of old dry bones, 

 broken by beating them on a hard substance with a hammer, one bushel 

 of calcined oyster shells, and four barrowfuls of sheep droppings from 

 the pens, or horse droppings free of straw. Mix all the materials well 

 together, and make the border in dry weather. Finish off with a layer 

 of turf which has been in a heap for six months, adding to it one-tenth 

 of half-inch bones, and well mixed. Your Vines wiU astonish your 

 neighbours. ' 



"Cottage G.^rdeners' Dictionary" (Tdem).~lt may bo had post 

 free from our office if you send 7-^. in stamps with your address. It con- 

 tains the Supplement, which includes the plants worthy of cultivation 

 introduced down to the end of lbG7. 



Cutting-back Oleanders (J. A.). — You may still cut the plant back ; 

 but it would be better to defer doing so until spring, as the plant would 

 then make a better gro^rth, and you will have an opportunity of forming 

 a handsome specimen. The cuttings of the old wood will strike in water, 

 and may afterwards be potted. They will stand the winter in a green- 

 house, hut not out of door.4. Why not strike them in soil in small pots ? 



Pine Apples (H. R.).— We should advise you to thin out the plants, 

 removing every alternate one, and to place those you take up into pots 

 sufficiently large to hold the roots. Perhaps you could take out every 

 alternate row, which will answer quite as well as removing every alternate 

 plant. We would remove all the lower leaves as far up the stem as roots 



aro being emitted, and give a top-dressing of rich compost, so as to cover 

 the stwrns as deeply as tbev have roots, or rather about 1 inch deeper to 

 allow for settling. By taking out every alternate row or plant you will 

 afVord room to those left in the pit. and they will, no doubt, bear fruit 

 next summer, and finer than if you were to take them all up and pot 

 them. Your compost is good. 



Mammoth Gocrd (O. (i. Macrar;).—\Ve have grown this to a weight of 

 120 lbs. The fruit is edible, and may be used as a Vegetable Marrow, or 

 for custards, and when ripe is fully as good in flavour as a large coarse 

 Melon. 



Climbers for West and NoRTn-^VEST Walls iW.S.Tt.^.— Went aspect : 

 Clematis Jackmanni, C. Fortuni, Aristolochia sipho, and Jasmiumn ofli- 

 cinale grandifiorum. North■^^•eH anpfct : Jasminumnudifiorum, CratOBgus 

 pyracantha, lierberis Darwini, and Cotoneaster Simmousi. 



Alternanthfra AMa:NA Propagation (WfTH).— It is readily increased 

 by cuttings, which may be put in now in sandy soil, with an inch of sand 

 at the top of the pots or pans. The cuttings should be inserted about 

 an inch apart. Select those with three joints and the growing point, and 

 insert them two-thirds their length in the soil. A gentle heal is neces- 

 sary, or a hotbed of from 70' to 75'. You may take up some of the old 

 plants and winter them in a house having a temperature of 45', and these 

 will afford you plenty of cuttings in spring, which will answer for bedding 

 out the same season, if growth is encouraged and they are hardened-ofi" 

 well before planting out. 



Strawberry Culture (H. W. B.).— "The blackbirds and thrushes 

 here are so numerous that I am obliged to plant Strawberries closer than 

 I should otherwise do, to save netting. All mine were netted, or the 

 birds would have eaten them up, as they did my Raspberries and Goose- 

 berries. The Strawberries will be netted next year, for it is of no use 

 arguing with hungry stomachs. I suppose my Strawberry plants are on 

 an average 18 inches apart every way. If runners are planted very late I 

 put them in 9 inches apart for the first year, and cut out every alternate 

 plant and row after cropping, which leaves them 18 inches apart every 

 way. In wot cold summers they cannot be too far apart, and in such a 

 summer as wo have had they can scarcely be too close. Dr. Hogg is a 

 splendid grower, and fine in every way. No strawberry plants could 

 withstand the sun more triumphantly than Dr. Hogg, Lucas, Rivers's 

 Eliza, and Cockscomb. I should not consider 18 inches of loam a shallow 

 soil. Strawberries like free drainage, plenty of sun, manure, and water. 

 The same may be said of Roses. The horse, cow, or pig manure may be 

 either dug in and well mixed with the soil some time before planting, or 

 they may be put on as a top-dressing. The crowns of the plants should 

 never be covered with anything. The manure must be kept level with 

 the base of tho plant, or the crowns will be bleached and softened. I 

 dress my worked plants closely after cropping, as they must make new 

 roots to supply the old ones, which die away wholly or in part. This 

 causes them to make new deep roots at once, which greatly assist them 

 to withstand severe winters. Some people do not dress the beds tiU 

 March, when the mischief is done. Hence they have an abundance of 

 flowers, but an abortive crop. Dress closely after cropping, and cut off 

 the runners. Never break your ground (you may weed with a Dutch hoe), 

 from the time the Strawberries are planted till you break them up. Mine 

 are now dressed with calcareous luam. Put on guano, soot, or blood 

 manure in showery weather in the spring. Be careful not to put guano 

 over the plants ; they will in that ca^e turn as yellow as a cock canary 

 bird. My runners were mainly planted in July, and are strong. Yoa 

 may hoe round fresh-planted Strawberry plants. It will promote growth. 

 Do not hoe deeply.— -W. F. RADCLYt te." 



British Ferns (J. B.).— It is impos.sible to answer your question in a 

 satisfactory manner without knowing what are their names. 



Names of Fruits {J. L,).— Apples: 1, Alexander; 2, Autumn Pear- 

 main; 3, ManksCodlin; 4, Keswick Codlin ; 5, Flat Nonpareil. {W. M. 

 DnTUv).~Plum8 : 1, Washington ; 15, Goliath ; 6 and 16, Victoria. Pears : 

 7, Baronne de Mello ; 8, Autumn Bcrgamot ; 9, Marie Louise. It is too 

 early in the season to name Apples and Pears. {J. H. Haddington). — 

 Where did vou obtain the Vine V The Grapes are very much like those 

 of Forbes's Seedling, so far as we can judge from so small a portion of a 

 bunch. , , , 



Names of Plants (Cicrmon/).— The specimen has never reached us. 

 If you will send another we will name it if it is determinable, (if. B.). 

 Tritonia aurea. {J. ii.l.— Lotus cnrniculatus. (J. W. K'.).~Cystopteria 

 bulbifera. (fi. M ).— Diplacus glutinosus. {J. W. Sfran.fl/on/).— Rochea 

 falcata ; propagated by means of its leaves. 



METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS in the Suburbs of London for the week ending September Ist. 



POULTRY, BEE, and HOUSEHOLD CHRONICLE. 



BATH AND WEST OP ENGLAND SOCIETY AND 



SOUTHEKN COUNTIES ASSOCIATION. 

 Ah amalgamation having been effected between the Bath 

 and West of England Society and the Southern Counties 



Association, a special general meeting of members was held 

 on the 2.5th ult. at the Three Choughs Hotel, Yeovil. 



Sir ,1. T. B. Duckworth, Bart., as Chairman of the Amalga- 

 mation Committee appointed by the annual meeting of mem- 

 bers of the Bath and West of Kugland Society, held at Falmouth 

 on the Hrd of June last, moved tliat the title of the Amalgamated 

 Societies be " The Bath and West of England Society (esta- 

 blished 1777), and Southern Counties Association, for the 



