Bepteiubtr 17, 1868. 1 



JOURNAL OF EOKTIGULTUliB AND COTTAGE GABDENER. 



200 



leakage, and in some casea would nllow the glass to fall oat. 

 Although a fixed roof ib the warmeEt, driest, and cheapest, 

 yet it is frequently the case that the uurseryman is compelled 

 by TariouB rcaflous to uee movcfible sashes, as, for instance, 

 when the ground is rented on a short lease and frequent re- 

 movals are the consequence, or when plants are grown in the 

 open ground inside the house, instead of in pots, and the re- 

 moval of the sashes during the summer is necessary. 



Moveable sashos as usually made, are expensive on account 

 of the great amount of manual labour expended on them, but 

 I have recently had made, principally by machinery, a large 

 number of greenhouse and hotbed sathes that I have found 

 sufficiently strong, and that cost but little more than a fixed 



M 



\ 



Fig. 2. 



roof. Fiij. 2, is a section of the greenhouse sash, a and h re- 

 present the three outer sash-bars — viz., the two sides and top, 

 which can be either 2 or S inches wide, but I have found for 

 8-feet sashes 2 inches sufficiently strong and stiff. They should 

 be of good, clean, second, common 2-inch White Pine, sawed, 

 planed, and rebated by machinery on one side only, the rebates 

 a quarter of on inch wide and half an inch deep. The middle 

 sash-bars, c, should be made of the same'stuil, 2 inches wide, 

 and rebated on each side, a quarter of an inch wide and half 

 an inch deep. The length of the sash should, if possible, be 

 regulated by the length of the plank, so as to avoid waste. If 

 12 feet long, the sash-bars can be nearly G feet long ; if 16 feet 

 long, 8 feet, and so on. 



If the sashes are intended for a greenhouse, where they are 

 not often moved, it will answer to put them together with 

 three ten-penny nails at eacli corner, as shown at e ; but if for 

 hotbed sashes, screws should be used. Corner pieces of hoop 

 iron, punched by a blacksmith (as shown at /), and put on 

 with large-sized lath nails, serve to stiffen the joint and 

 prevent the nails from drawing ; but this is not absolutely 

 necessary. 



The upper and lower cross-bar of the sash h, should be 

 notched-in, as at /;, the depth of the rebate, to receive the 

 Bash-bar e, and the side or oater-bar a, should be notched-in, 

 as at «, for the same depth. This not only is necessary in 



Fig. 8. 



order to bring the rebates together, but adds greatly to the 

 strength and stiffness of the sash. 



The lower cross-bar, as shown at a, fig. 3, should be of less 



thickness (aay half an inch), than the other sash-bars, and 

 should be perfectly plain without any rebate. This oUows the 

 glass, when the sash is glazed, to project over the bar a, so 

 that the water runs off without obstruction. If the sashes are 

 intended for hotbeds, the side bars should extend 5 or G incheg 

 beyond the top and bottom bars. These ends are convenient 

 to handle them by, and also serve to strengthen them. If the 

 sashes are over feet long, they should be braced across the 

 middle with an iron brace one-eighth of an inch thick, or a 

 wooden one halt an inch thick. 



The great saving in these sashes is in the labour. The 

 ordinary carpenter cannot generally make more than three, or 

 at most four, common hand-made sashi.? in a day ; whereas, I 

 have had fourteen, and sometimes more, of the above'deBcril>ed 

 sashes made in the same time. Indeed, it does not require a 

 carpenter at all to put them together. Any person accustomed 

 to the use of the saw and chisel can make them. Some ten or 

 fifteen of the bars as they come from the planing mill can be 

 laid side by side on a work bench or table, and all of them 

 marked out by a standard measure and a Equi\re, and then all 

 of them can be sawed to the proper lengths at once. 



We next come to the glazing of the roof. Putty has been 

 pretty generally discarded in glazing the roofs of gieenhouses, 

 except for bedding the glass in, and this is necessary in order 

 to exclude the cold air and to prevent leakage. In glazing, the 

 first operation is to take soft putty, and with a glazing knife or 

 your thumb and forefinger, coat the rebate with putty to the 

 depth of one-sixteenth of an inch, or the thickness of the glass 

 used. Then, commencing at the bottom of the sash-bars, put 

 in a pane of glass with the rounded-side uppermost. This is 

 important, as nearly all common window glass has a curve in 

 it, and by keeping this curve always uppermost, the glass fits 

 closer, and more effectually excludes the air and moisture. 

 When the pane is in its place, press it down firmly at its upper 

 end until you feel it touch the wood of the sash-bar. Then 

 secure it in its place by half-inch cut sprigs as follows :^One 

 on each side at bottom, to keep the glass from slipping down, 

 and one on each side, within quarter of an inch of the top of the 

 glass, to keep it iu its place, and also to keep the pane above it 

 from slipping down. — (Head hrfore the. Femuylvania Uorticul- 

 taral Society, by Kx-l'iefident D. liodney King.) 



WORK FOR THE \VEEK. 



KITCHEN GARUEN. 



Cabbage plants should be well earthed-up, and the soil kept 

 loose between the rows while they are young. Cauliflowers, 

 those who preferred August to September for sowing may now 

 plant out the young plants where they are to remain and re- 

 ceive the protection of hand-lights ; these should not be put 

 on until absolutely necessary. Endii-e and Lettuce, some of 

 each of these should be tied up for blanching when they are in 

 a fit state and dry. Capsicums and Tomatoes, of which very 

 little hopes were entertamed early in the season, have made 

 rapid progress since the middle of July, and will yield a fair 

 crop after all. IiV<(?.'i will now be springing up in abundance 

 from seeds carried into the garden, or shed in it, and this is the 

 stage at which they are most easily destroyed. I'ot and Sweet 

 Herbs, this is a very good time to break up old beds of these, 

 and plant young offsets in a bed or border. Any work of this 

 kind, which can be done in the autumn, should never be put 

 off till the spring. A row of Cliives is useful in any garden; 

 they may be divided and planted as an edging. Old Camomile 

 beds, and many other things, may be renewed. IVater Cresses, 

 try a bed on a north border in the kitchen garden. They 

 may be planted for weeks yet, but the sooner they are put in 

 now the less likely they are to be thrown oat of the ground 

 by frost. 



rnUIT GABDEN. 



In consequence of the fine summer weather we have had 

 this season, the growth of all trees and bushes is in a fair way 

 of being well ripened, affording a good prospect of an excellent 

 crop next season. Notwithstanding the repeated observations 

 respecting the impropriety of cutting off the leaves of Straw- 

 berry plants, upon the proper development and full exposure 

 of which the maturation of the buds for next season depends, 

 the practice is still extensively adopted, and it is not unusual 

 to meet with individuals who proudly contrast the neat appear- 

 ance of their beds with the somewhat rough aspect of those 

 where only the runners have been removed, the smallest bnis 



