Septsmbor 17, 1SC8. ] 



JOUBNAL OF HORTICOLTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEB. 



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fit for use tbey conld not be kept Bonnd in drizzling weather. 

 unless they were protected by a waterproof covering, as the 

 rain, when it found its way to the heart of the plants, could 

 not escape, hut remained there, turned in time fu'tid, and then 

 the heart, the valuable part of the plant, rotted and decayed, 

 and all tlio labour went fur nothing but a huge assemblage of 

 outside leafstalks, of little use except for soups, if the cook 

 could be coaxed to use thera for that purpose. 



Two or three inquiries have been made as to our reasons for 

 not eartliinij-iip early Celery by degrees, as last week we stated 

 wo had not the same objections in reference to late Celery, 

 when the evaporation of moisture from the leaves is almost 

 counterbalanced by the drizzliug rains, the mists, and the 

 dews of a late autumn. Oar reason for not earthing-up gra- 

 dually early Celery is based on the natural habitat of the plant, 

 and what we have noticed as the results when these natural 

 arrangements are greatly interfered with. The Celery is natu- 

 rally a ditch plant, where in general the roots will have a 

 sufficiency of moisture to meet the ample evaporation going on 

 from the large expanded foliage. In such a position it will also 

 receive less or more of shade. Deprive it of all shade, drain 

 the moisture from the ditch, and then in the dry summer 

 weather, the Celery plant, naturally a biennial, would in self- 

 defence be forced to become an annual, and throw up its flower 

 stalk the first instead of the second season. Under culture the 

 same conditions will produce the same results. We generally 

 give a little shade to early Celery by having Peas on the tops of 

 the ridges, the Celery being planted in the bed trenches. The 

 trench is just a makeshift for the ditch, and serves the purpose 

 of retaining moisture better than planting on the level ground 

 would do. In stiff ground the trenches should be shallow for 

 late Celery to stand the winter. Now in the hit-by-bit earthing- 

 np of Celery we do much the same thing for the plants as 

 draining the ditch would do. We may water well before we 

 give a little earthing-up. but if we place 2 or 3 inches of earth 

 over the roots, and then in a week or two a few inches more, 

 and so on, in order, as it is said, to encourage the heart to rise, 

 we never think, or seldom, of the state of the roots, whilst the 

 leaves are throwing off so much moisture every day, and then 

 a great surprise is felt when the greater part of a bed bolts and 

 throws up flower stalks, rendering the plants useless with 

 cheese or for the salad bowl. Examine the roots, often as dry 

 as if standing close to an oven, and the whole surprise need he 

 a surprise no more. The roots could obtain no moisture near 

 at hand, whilst the leaves were continually evaporating it in 

 dry and sunny weather. The bit-by-bit earthing-up prevented 

 all moisture reaching the roots of the ditch plant more effec- 

 tually than if you had thoroughly drained the ditch, and the 

 bolting of the Celery was the consequence of the roots being 

 dry. Even as to the rising of the heart of the plant, that is 

 sufficiently secured by first cleaning and then tying-up each 

 plant rather loosely, and even the tying helps on the blanching 

 process. If Celery is worth having, it is worth tying, as that 

 keeps the heart leaves so nice and close. 



Whilst for all early work — say heads for use in September, 

 or earlier, and the first week of October, we object to the bit- 

 by-bit earthing-up. We have no objection to an extra inch or 

 two of soil over the roots, in which they may root upwards as 

 well as downwards. In fact, after each heavy watering, we 

 generally follow in an hour or two, sprinkling over the bed 

 gome well-broken soil from the sides, which, being dry, helps 

 to keep the moisture about the roots, giving no free outlet to it 

 except through the foliage. For early use, provided the plants 

 are tied some time previously, the once earthing-up will do, if 

 performed about three weeks before the plants are wanted ; 

 and, therefore, on the principles alluded to above, only a small 

 piece is done at a time, for if large beds were earthed-up at 

 once, before they were used, we would expect the roots to be 

 dry just as in the bit-by-bit system, and then the same results 

 would follow, in plants throwing up their tiower stalks. The 

 theory is borne cut by results, as whenever we could give any- 

 thing like common attention to our Celery, we never have 

 had an early head bolted. In fact, such a thing has been un- 

 noticed for many years. So much for our theory and practice, 

 which wo think of some importance, but others may know a 

 still more excellent way. 



And now a word as to earthing-up. In light soils, with tying 

 previously, nothing is better than the garden soil. Many other 

 materials are used. Mr. McDonald, of Woodstock, Ireland, 

 nses moss, and few things could answer better. Old tan has 

 also been used, but new tan is apt to give a taint, and it much 

 is put on, it is aloo apt to heat. We have used leaves, but they, 



too, are apt to heat. A correspondent last week recommended 

 sawdust. Wo would only say, that used liberally at a time, it 

 is apt to heat, and if from resinous wood, it will leave something 

 of a taint. Sawdust from hard wood and rather old, is, there- 

 fore, best. In light soils, and in any soil for early produce, 

 the soil will do for blanching. In heavy soils, and for wintei 

 supply, some coal ashes arc a good material to place next the 

 plant, and if scarce, enough just to go round the plant will do. 

 A simple mode of giving this small supply is to have two 

 semicircular pieces of tin — say 15 inches long and G inches at 

 the semicircular diameter. These should be placed nearly to- 

 gether, so as to enclose the tied-up plant, and the ashes 

 trundled down whilst the soil is put against the rim, and that 

 removed as the earthing-up proceeds. Even a small quantity 

 round the plants saves them considerably from worms and 

 slugs. In heavy soils, even with ashes, it is not advisable to 

 earth-up so high as in light soils ; not more than about half 

 would do, and then as the weather becomes cold, the plants 

 could be packed close up to their stems with litter, placed rather 

 firmly, and that will soon cake, and throw much water off. 

 Plants so managed will stand the winter better than others if it 

 is cold, and be little liable to damp off if the weather should 

 be open and drizzly. 



Prepared material for another Mushroom bed, and took the 

 chance of such fine dry weather to run the Dutch hoe through 

 all growing crops, Strawberry borders, &c. 

 rr.niT o.ir.uF.N. 



Planted out thickly lots of Slraii-brrnj plants that had been 

 previously pricked out, so that we may lift them in spring as 

 wanted for forcing. In relation to this see previous remarks, 

 and that all the more particularly, as au amateur was dis- 

 appointed last season when he used such plants for early 

 forcing. For early forcing the plants must be established now 

 in pots. Wo recollect a great authority throwing cold water on 

 all our gardening preparations, because from plants lifted from 

 the open ground fine results were obtained in May and the 

 beginning of June. Hence the folly of summer potting and 

 autumn attendance. It the learned gentleman had tried his 

 raised-up plants in January, we imogine where his triumphant 

 notes would have been. Pricked out thickly a number of sorts 

 in case they should be wanted, as even these will be good plants in 

 spring, and when small they thrive all the better for company. 

 We have had all our runners late this season, and some rows 

 almost parched up are now like the grass, becoming green 

 again. Had we waited for runners rooting in the open ground 

 we would have been nowhere with our young plants in pots. 

 By taking them off as soon as they showed, and pricking them 

 out by the string in beds under protection, we soon had good 

 plants for potting, many of which have now crammed the soil 

 in the pots with fine roots. We do not think we ever had the 

 plants potted more firmly, and they are all the better of it. This 

 weather is just suitable for them, as maturing is helped as well 

 as growth, and the latter all the more, as we can feed them with 

 waterings containing something stronger than mere water. So 

 far as these Strawberries in pots are concerned, we by no means 

 wish rain to fall on them, except now and then, and if expected 

 we strew the pots with a little soot, guano, or superphosphate. 

 After many trials, however, we have come to the conclusion 

 that we can do very well with our home manures without the 

 help of artificial ones ; but all plants, like animals, dehght in 

 a change, and though soot water is much relished by the Straw- 

 berry, something less nitrogenous is welcome as a change, as 

 cow dung, sheep dimg, &c. 



One drawback there is in all this fine weather, reminding ns 

 of this, as respects ourselves and our doings, that we live in 

 a world where all is not overbright, though we would often do 

 well to look at the bright side, so as to check all the beginnings 

 of grumbling. The drawback is, that with the exception of a 

 few Plums, our stone wall fruit is gone. The Pe.aches and the 

 Nectarines stood our first tropical summer well— not one fell, 

 partly owing to mulching where we could not water; but even 

 with the help of watering they could not stand the heat of this 

 second summer. Late Peaches swelled too fast, and Nectarines 

 swelled and shrivelled too in the heat, and the wasps coming 

 in legions told us that we must take our share whilst a share 

 could bo had. and so but fur our late orchard house we should 

 be deficient in fruit for large desserts. These late houses will 

 stand us in good stead, but we are gathering Walburton Admir- 

 able Peaches now, that kept us well in October last season. 



Had we a continuance of such weather at tliis season, late 

 orchard houses would bo among the most useful and most 

 economical structures about a garden, as fruit could be had 



