Octeber 8, 186& ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



2G7 



iig. 4. Every year two new branches are originated, and these 

 may be termed principals ; such are n, o, p, </, r, and upon or 

 from these sub-branches are originated at every 2 feet (i inches 

 and trained straight so that there will be an interval of 1 foot 



between the sub-branch and the principal branch at the point 

 wheve the next sub-branch originates. Once formed, the prin- 

 cipal and sub-branches are to be trained straight, which will be 

 understood hjjij. i. 



Fig. 4. 

 This mode of training is not in general practice, and for any- | any branch when it has become worn out. Ko bearing wood is 



thing that I know to the contrary is original. It has for its 

 object the furnishing of the lower part of the wall before the 

 centre is filled with branches, to get the lower branches strong 

 before the upper ones became strong, and the easily replacing 



allowed on the under sides of the branches, except shoots kept 

 closely pinched-in ; and no disbudding is practised, as all shoots 

 are pinched. — G. Abbey. 



WOKK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Broccoli, if your autumn sort and Cauliflowers come into use 

 too fast, take up some and lay them in in the shade, where 

 you can protect them with a mat or other covering it frost set 

 in before they are required for use. After the first frost or so 

 is over, there is not so much danger for some time about young 

 or succulent plants. Endive, see that the wet or frost does not 

 injure your plants. Lettuce, all the plants that are to stand 

 the winter out of doors should now or very soon be in the 

 ground. Onions, see also that the winter Onions are not eaten 

 up by slugs or snails, and have some soot kept dry in one of 

 the sheds to dust over young plants in or out of frames. 

 Spinadi should be thinned out a little more ; the late rains 

 made it fill up the rows more than usual. Pits for Asparagus, 

 Sea-kale, and lihubarb will now be in use where these vege- 

 tables are wanted early, but any dark place will do for the 

 Rhubarb and Sea-kale, and this is generally considered the 

 best way to force Sea-kale until after Christmas; the saving of 

 dung and labour will meet the cost of rearing plants for that 

 purpose, besides, the Sea-kale is so much sweeter and easier to 

 manage in the dead of winter. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Every Pear tree that has thrown out strong breastwood for 

 the last year or two, with plenty of blossoms and little fruit, 

 may now or soon be carefully taken up, but on no account is 

 the foundation of the border to be disturbed to trace down 

 roots. If you cannot pull them up — a bad practice, however — 

 cut them off at once and reduce oue or two of the weakest, and 

 the strongest branches of the head to correspond ; train out the 

 remaining roots at full length, and throw ti or inches of good 

 earth over them, and if the trees look stunted next summer, 

 water them well. Agaiu, if your tree is a stunted, half-starved 

 one, take it up also, and if the roots are sound give them fresh 

 soil and reduce the head two-thirds, otherwise throw it away. 

 You will judge for yourself of all the intermediate degrees, 

 but let there be no wavering about the extreme points. All 

 other fruit trees are to be dealt with after the same manner, 

 and not only once in a lifetime, but as often as the symptoms 

 appear. Then come the trenching and making of new borders. 

 It is always a good plan to have a few young trees of all the 

 best sorts of fruit in reserve ready to fill up vacancies. How- 

 ever promising a stock of trees may be, there is no saying how 



soon failures may happen, and a few young trees will not take 

 up much room, especially if you tranpplaut every second or 

 third year, and if they bear a few fruit so much the better, as 

 you will then be sure what they are before you remove them to 

 their final situations. Young Peach and Apricot trees should 

 be thus nursed, before they are planted against the walls, after 

 receiving them from the nurseryman, and this having been a 

 good season for ripening the wood of fruit trees, no one who is 

 not already provided should neglect the opportunity of buying- 

 in a few young trees to be nursed under liis own care a year or 

 two before they are wanted on the walls. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



All showy beds near the windows, and half-hardy plants 

 against walls, i-c, ought to be protected from frost as long as 

 possible. It is too soon as yet to disturb the flower garden 

 by removing large shrubs, but high time to plant all the early 

 Tulips, Narcissuses, and all such bulbs for flowering early next 

 spring, also any herbaceous plants for the same purpose. Wall- 

 flowers, double Rockets, Polyanthuses, double Primroses, 

 Hepaticas, and other spring-flowering plants that have been 

 growing in nursery beds through the summer, may now be re- 

 moved to their blooming quarters in the flower borders, and if 

 surrounded with fresh compost they will repay the trouble in 

 the spring. Auriculas should soon be put in their quarters for 

 the winter. Nine-tenths of the collections grown in the country 

 are wintered in glazed frames or sheltered by boards hinged to 

 a wall ; the great point, however, is to keep them from drench- 

 ing rains when the plant is in a dormant state. Polyanthuses 

 may still be planted ; the sooner the better. All offsets, seed- 

 lings, or unhealthy bulbs should now be in the ground, and as 

 the main bed ought to be planted between the second week in 

 October and the first week in November, everything must now 

 be in readiness and the first favourable opportunity taken of 

 putting them in the ground. In consequence of the late fine 

 weather the beds ought to be in a good state for planting, and 

 it would be a wise precaution to cover them with mats during 

 the night, or on the appearance of rain, as it is advisable not 

 to plant when the bed is too much saturated with moisture. 

 Beds for Ranunculuses should now be prepared, and all com- 

 post heaps turned and sweetened. Vegetable refuse should 

 be collected and put in heaps to decay. Draw-up the soil 

 round the stems of Dahlias in a small hillock to prevent the 



