November 26, 1868. ] 



JOURNAL OP HOKTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENEB. 



411 



abont 1^ inch with eoil. When grown in pota the crowns of the corms 

 ehonld bo cuverod al>out an inch with soil. 



Peopaoatino CnnYflANTiiEMtTMs (Ipnornnce). — Havinp no glnafi, except 

 ft windiiw, we would advise the proimgation to bo deferred until March, 

 then divide the old plant, choosing; tbe btrunKOst suckera, and not leavinR 



more than oue or two shoots to earh root These should bo planted 

 2 feet apart every way in pround deeply dug and well mnniirod. After 

 planting, water if dry weather prevail. When the plants have grown to 

 a height of 9 or ID inches peg them down. This saves tying up. and 

 caases them to bloom when shorter, and to have better foliage. In hot 

 dry weather they must be well watered three times a-week. A sheltered 

 Sitnation should be selected. 



CucCMBERs AND VEGETABLE Marrows (Idem). — NoHO of the largo 

 Cucumbers would succeed as you propose to grow them, and they would 

 do little good trained to stakes or a trellis in the open ground ; but if you 

 have a wooden fence you may train the shoots to that, the situation 

 being open and with a southern exposure. The same remarks apply to 

 Yegetable Marrows ; they will do well trained to a wooden fence or 

 trellis, havinR a sheltered, warm, open situation, stockwood Kidge 

 Cacnmber and Long White Vegetable Marrow will suit you. 



DioscoREA BATATAS CULTURE (H. H.).—By lenvinff the rhizomes in the 

 ground you will have them larger at the end of two years than at the 

 end of twelvemonths. Except in very favourable soils and situations, 

 two seasons' growth are required to secure them fine. 



Tmb Carnations foh Winter Blooming (W. B., jun.). — Perfection, 

 white ground, bizarre flakes of purpio and crimson ; Queen of Whites, 

 white; Jean Bart, salmon scarlet; Virgile, yellow ground, flumtd and 

 tipped with cherry; Victor Emmanuel, yellow, rosy crimson fliike; Nel- 

 son, straw-flaked pink; Beauty, white, rosy pink narrow stripe; Le 

 Geant, blood red; Orifltfmme, red, and orange yellow; Magenta, purple 

 lilac; Garihaidi, purple violet ; and Victorie, scarlet and crimson flake. 



Vines Infested with Mealy Bug (Try).— The rods should have all 

 the loose bark removed, scraping the angles and probing well the holes ; 

 but be careful not to scrape or cut them into the quick or live parts of the 

 StemB, rod , or spurs. This done, wash them thoroughly with a solution 

 of Clarke's Insect-destroying Compound, 3 ozs. to the gallnn, adding a 

 dozen drops of spirits of turpentine to every gallon of solution, and em- 

 ploying a stiff brush, so as to reach every hole and crevice, taking care 

 not to rub off the eyes. The woodwork should be thoroughly cleaned, 

 and, if possible, painted, and the walls limc»washed, using the solution 

 above named for mixing the lime. The washing of the Vines should be 

 done twice, and it would be well to go over thmi again when the eyes are 

 beginning to swell, as the insects, from the warmth, are then coming 

 from their hiding places. Wash carefully, so as not to dislocate the eyes, 

 and yet effectually, so as to dislodge the insects. 



Wire fob Peach Trees (/(/t-m).— The best wire ia galvanised iron, and 

 No. 10 gauge is the most serviceable. The wires are best placed hori- 

 zontally, about 4 inches apart, and half an inch from the wall, or from 

 that to three quarters of an inch. 



Cloudberry— Umbrella Pise {GaUorray).~~lt is difficult to account 

 for the Cloudberry not fruiting. Probnblytbe soil is too rich and too 

 moiBt. or not sufficiently drained. The Japanese TTmbrella Pine will 

 thrive almost anywhere, and we think yoars do not from there being too 

 mnch water in the subsoil; in a wet soil and situation it will not grow, 

 though it may linger. 



Watering Pelargoniums and Fuchsias (A. G.).— Yon do not state 

 whether yours are young or old plants. If old, Fuchsias will not require 

 any water from now up to March, if the pots are set on a floor, whence 

 they will derive sufficient moisture to keep the wood from shrivelling. 

 The soil in the pots ouglit to be dry to prevent growth, and yet tlie wood 

 maet not be allowed to shrivel. Old plants of Pelargoniums require 

 similar treatment; they should be kept dry, and there may be eases 

 where water will be needed, hs when the pots are over a flue &o that the 

 soil becomes very dry, then a little wiiter should be given to prevent the 

 wood shrivelling. Young growing plants of both Fuchsias and Pelar- 

 goniums should be watered occasionally, and when necessary to keep the 

 foliage from fl:igging, but none is to be given until the soil becomes dxy, 

 yet supply it before the leaves fl^g. 



Fruit Trees for Walls and Garden 'E. L.). — The wall facing south 

 will be suitable for Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines ; or, yonr wall space 

 being limited, you may devote a part of the south wall to I'lums and Pears. 

 The north aspect will only suit the Morello Cherry and Currants, whilst 

 on the east you may have Cherries, Plums, and Pears. In the open 

 ground Pears on the Quince, and Apples on the Enalish Paradise stock 

 would succeed as pyramitts and bn-hes, and so would Plums Your soil 

 being light, you must top-dress heavily with cool manure, such as cow 

 dung, and water liberally during dry "hot weather. The subsoil being 

 clay, see that water does not lodge in it; if it do the ground must be 

 prc^erly drained by tile drains 3 or 4 feet deep, having a proper fait and 

 outlet. 



Vine for Cool House (TiUm).~X suitable companion for the Black 

 Hamburgh is Foster's White Seedling. 



Clethra arborka {Idem). — It is an evergreen shrub, a native of 



Madeira, attaining a height of 8 feot, and requires a light peaty soil. It 

 in rather pretty, having white flowers at the end of summer ; hut requir- 

 ing, as it does, tlio protection of a house with a greonhouso temperature, 

 we should be averse to having it in a limited collection. 



Oleander Infested with SrAi.p, (A SuhKcri})rr).~~The leaves sent 

 us were badly Inlrsted with the Oleander scale (Aspidiotna nerii). The 

 loaves, if like those hent, will fall. We advise that every leaf, the stem, 

 and shoots fihould be watched with a sponge in every part, and on the 

 npper and under sides of the leaves, using a solution of CUrko's Insect- 

 destroying G mpound at the rate of 3 ozs. to the gallon, and as hot as the 

 hand can bear. 



Azalea Culture (5u&«cri&er). — From September to March, and until 

 the flowering ia over. Azaleas nh^iuld he kept in a light and airy place in 

 a house with a temperature of 40'^ to 45^ from fire heat. Aftei flowering 

 an increase of temperature should be given, say .15'^ at uight, and 05'^ by 

 day, with a riao of 10^ or 20"^ from sun heat. This temperaturf, with a. 

 moist atmosphere, ought to be maintained until the growth is complete 

 and the buds si't ; then remove the jilants to a cool airy house, affording 

 plenty of room and light. They are propagated by cutting^*, which should 

 be put in when the young Hhoots attain their full length and have tho 

 base rather firm, or what ia known as half ripe. They should be from 

 3 to 4 inches in length, cut transversely below a leaf, and have the leaves 

 removed half way up the cuttings. Insert them round the sides of a pot 

 placed in one of larger size, and so that the rims of both are on the same 

 level. The cutting pot should be well drained and filled to within half 

 an inch of the i:im with sandy peat, and half an inch of silver sand on 

 tlie surface. The space between the pota is to be filled with crocks to 

 within an inch of the rims, and then finish off with silver sand. Insert 

 the cuttings up to where the leaves are left, give a gentle watering, and 

 when drv cover with a bell-glass, which will rest on the sand between the 

 pots. Plunge the pot in a hotbed of from 70^ to 75"", keeping close and 

 shaded. The cuttings will be well rooted in sis weeks; then remove tho 

 bell-glass, commencing to remove it by degrees about a fortnight pre- 

 viously, by tiltiog it on one side. When the young plants are well hardened 

 off pot them singly in small pots, and keep them in a gentle heat until 

 they are well established ; then remove them to a cool house or green- 

 house Peat soil is necessary for the successful cultivation of Azaleas — 

 two-thirds peat, one-third loam, and one-sixth each of old cow dung and 

 silver sand will grow them well. Scale on the plants may be destroyed by 

 placing them out of doors in summer, but that being injurious, unless 

 they are carefully attended to with water, and not practic ible now, 

 svringe them with a solution of Clarke's Compound, '2 ozs. to the gallon, 

 which will destroy the scale, the plants being thoroughly wetted in every 

 part. When growing and flowering. Azaleas require to be plentifully 

 supplied with water, and at other times the soil must be kept moist, but 

 only apply water when the soil is becoming dry, and before the foliage 

 flags, then give enouizh to show itself at tho drainage. Yon may safely 

 fumigate the house with tobacco. It will not injure the plants, but let 

 the foliage be dry. 



Planting Vines (T. J.).— We would not now plant the Vines, but kee|i 

 them in the pots as they are until the end of Ffbruary, and as cool as 

 possible without exposing them to frost. The case or frame over the 

 border outside will answer w^ll f<^r them, and the temperature may be 

 cool, and yet not lower than 32", nor more than 4(1'' by allowing the pipes 

 to bfcome heated. In planting, the roots should have all the soil shaken 

 away, and they should be disentangled and laid out straight, spreading 

 them well out. Avoid deep planting. Cover the roots with 3 inches of 

 tine loam— best from old turf, and give a gentle watering. By all means 

 plant the Vines inside if yW can, and do not on any account turn them 

 out in winter. The Vines will not sustain any injury so long as the tem- 

 perature from fire heat does not exceed 4U , and it will be all the better 

 for the plants. The frame outside will answer for winter-bedding plants, 

 and you may, whether there are plants in it or niit, have a little heat in 

 it in severe weather to keep out frost, but do not raise the temperature 

 to more than 40'^ from fire heat. 



Failure of Chrysanthemums (St. Brigid). — There are no Chrysan- 

 themums perfectly hardy. The large-flowering are qiiite as hardy as th© 

 PompoU'^. but both kinds require to be protected, or under glass, to be safe 

 —the month of November is so uncertain, sometimes mild and at other 

 times frosty. The Chrvsantbemum will bear 3- or 4^ of frost, but thlB 

 year we have had 12- and 14 \ and that is the reason of your failure. 



Analysis of Soil (Cu//jc^for).— You will find a simple mode in John- 

 son's "Science and Practice of Gardening." You can have it free from 

 our office if you enclose forty postage stamps with your address. 



Names of Fruits (O. Ramsey).— The Pear is Bergamotte Cadette, and 

 the Apple Baddow Pippin. (A. B., Bromley).— I, Broughton : 3, Ord's. 



Names of Plants ( ). — Canavalia ensifolia. Chrjiaanthemmns. — We 



hfive received a box of these without any nnme ; but it is of no conse- 

 quence, for, as we have often said, we cam^ot name the varieties of 

 florists' flowers. They are in Ifgions. (Nfmo). — i, Habrothamnus fasci- 

 culrttus ; 2, PIfltyloma rotundifolia ; 3, Selaginella Martensii ; 4. S Lndo- 

 viciana. iP.P.) — MngnoHa glauca. {Jil. R. C. S.).— Orchid bloom too 

 much crushej to be identified. 



METEOROLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS in the Suburbs of London for the week ending November 24th. 



