December 10, 1868. ] 



JOURNAL OF HOBTIOUIiXUKB AND COTTAGE GABDENER. 



443 



to cease, or find other channels. By disbudding and pinching 

 when the weather is cold, the flnids of the tree become stag- 

 nant ; but if we disbud or stop when the weather is mild, and 

 growth active, the sap will find other channels, the circulation 

 not being impeded or deranged. It wo remove all but one 

 shoot from a bearing shoot, or disbud aud stop at the same 

 time, it is certain that that one bnd or the parts loft, all being 

 stopped, will not be able to receive and duly appropriate the 

 sap ; but if the weather is dull and vegetation advanced, we 

 may remove all but the one shoot from the base of each bear- 

 ing shoot without exciting that left to any undue development. 

 Disbudding, therefore, should be performed by degrees. The 

 forerights on the branches should be first removed or stopped. 

 In a few days we may follow with shoots on the sides, and such 

 as were not sufficiently advanced at the former disbudding, 

 following in a few days with those on the bearing shoots, al- 

 ways preserving the lowest shoot on each for succession. 

 Those with fruit at their bases, and the terminal, should be 

 left to make three leaves, and then be pinched, and afterwards 

 be closely pinched back to one leaf. It is a great evil to allow 

 the shoots to become long and fuU-foliaged before disbudding, 

 for it causes a stagnation of the sap, and unduly excites the 

 growth of those left ; in a like manner the stopping of the 

 shoots should be performed as soon as we have leaves nearly 

 fall-sized on the length of shoot we require. No more shoots 

 or foliage should be left than will be fully exposed to light. In 

 removing the shoots care should be taken not to tear off with 

 them any portion of the bark of the shoot from which they are 

 taken, but rub them off, or cut them off with a sharp knife. 



FaniT-TniNNiNG. — If the trees are healthy more fruit will set 

 than can arrive at perfection, few it any dropping unless 

 injured by frost. The thinning of the fruit will be dependant on 

 the vigour of the tree and size of the fruit ; on a weak tree the 

 fruit should be left considerably thinner than those on trees 

 that are vigorous, whilst the thinning on the individual tree 

 must not be the same throughout. Some parts of the tree will 

 be weak in comparison to others ; on the weak parts the fruit 

 must be left thin ; on the vigorous portions the fruit must be 

 left more thickly. The small-fruited sorts should have the 

 fruit left more thickly than the large-fruited. A vigorous tree 

 of the large-fruited kinds, as the Grosse Mignonne, Barrington, 

 &a., may be allowed one fruit for every foot of surface covered 

 bythe tree, but it is not necessary that the fruit should be dis- 

 tributed evenly over the tree, for some parts are weak, and 

 there the fruit must be left thin, vigorous parts having more 

 left than would be the case were the weak and vigorous parts 

 allowed to bear equally. It wUl be sufficient if no more fruit 

 be left than the tree can properly mature, and every healthy 

 tree wUl bring to perfection a fruit to every foot of wall covered. 

 Such varieties as the Ei3yal George will perfect three fruit to 

 every 2 feet of wall covered, and Nectarines will bear to have 

 the fruit left more thickly than Peaches of the large-fruited 

 sorts. Large kinds of Nectarines may be thinned to three for 

 every 2 feet of wall covered, whilst for the small kinds two 

 fruit per foot may be left. 



In calculating the extent of wall covered, it should be cal- 

 culated from the extent of the branches at the bottom of the 

 wall and the height, without taking into account the current 

 year's growth ; and the dimensions taken in feet, multiplied 

 together, will give the number of square feet, and it is then 

 easy to thin so as to leave the proper number of fruit on 

 each tree. 



It is a common error to allow too many' fruit to remain, 

 indeed, some trees are permitted to bear as many as they will, 

 the result being the weakening of the trees ; for, though the 

 number may be great, the fruit, it weighed, will not afford such 

 a weight of flesh as if it had been properly thinned. The weak- 

 ening of the tree is dependant more on the number of the fruit 

 than on their size, for it is the production of stones or seed 

 that diminishes the vigour of the tree, aud to take twice the 

 number of fruits that ought to be left, is to reduce its vigour 

 correspondingly ; besides, the fruits are small, thin in flesh, 

 and badly flavoured, indeed, only fit for those unaccustomed to 

 eat the Peach or Nectarine when full-sized and perfectly ripened. 



The first thinning should take place when the young fruit is 

 about the size of a hazel nut, but rather under than over that 

 size. It will be seen by that time which, if any, fruits have 

 been injured by spring frosts. There will be different sizes. 

 The smallest will, of course, be removed, for these in most 

 cases would not form stones, and in that event they must fall, 

 from the kernel being injured by frost or some other cause. If 

 the fruits are almost of one size they may be nearly thinned at 



once, though it is well to leave a greater number at the first 

 thinning than are required, until such time as tho fruit is 

 stoned, and then reduce them to the proper number. In taking 

 off the green fruits care should be exercised so as not to re- 

 move or damage tho bark of the shoots. The fruit should 

 be gently twisted round and pressed upwards, for if pulled 

 backwards or downwards in the direction of the base of the 

 shoot it is likely the fruit will bring away with it a portion of 

 the bark. To prevent the tearing of the bark, the fruit may 

 be clipped off, the only purpose for which the scissors should 

 be employed about a Peach tree. — G. Abbey. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Wheel dung on vacant ground, renew old decayed borders, 

 and procure good fresh loam to form new ones. Clean old 

 shreds not too much wasted for use, by boiling them, and cut 

 plenty of fresh ones. Deprive nails that have been used, of the 

 adhering mortar, &c., by heating them red hot in an iron vessel, 

 and to prevent their rusting immerse them in oil before they 

 cool. All the more tender vegetables, such as Cauliflowers, 

 Lettuce, &c., previously secured, will be found of great service 

 during the winter. Rooms or sheds with thick walls, and 

 lathed and plastered, so as to be cold in summer and warm in 

 winter, or cellars or underground rooms, will be of great ad- 

 vantage, as then a supply may be maintained with compara- 

 tively little trouble during cither severe weather in winter, or 

 for a month or two of dry scorching weather in summer. The 

 north side of a wall, with material to keep out the wet, and 

 leaves or straw to exclude frost, may also be used with ad- 

 vantage. Secure Potatoes from frost; examine Onions, re- 

 moving every one that has the smallest speck. Keep a supply 

 of Turnips, Celery, Jerusalem Artichokes, Horseradish, &B., in 

 case of a severe frost. Keep up a supply of Herbs, such as 

 Tarragon and Mint, by placing roots either in pots or in 

 Asparagus frames at work. The same method may be adopted 

 with Parsley and Chervil, if you are likely to be short. Fill 

 pots or boxes with lllmharb. Sea-kale, and Chicory, to be 

 placed in the Mushroom house, or in any corner where heat 

 and darkness can be secured. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



When planting fruit trees, if only an improvement in the 

 soil is thought necessary, loam and leaf mould are the best ma- 

 terials for the purpose, and as a makeshift for drainage, raise 

 as much as possible the spots where the trees are to be planted. 

 In transplanting, the trees should be taken up with great care, 

 and broken, bruised, or straggling roots pruned with a clean 

 cut. When planting, spread the roots out equally in a hole 

 of moderate depth, and of more than sufficient width for the 

 extent of the roots ; the fresh soil to be shaken carefully over 

 them, and gently pressed down, not stamped with the feet, 

 all round ; then water and mulch, and train to the wall or 

 espalier, or firmly stake if the tree is a standard. Fig trees 

 should be protected from frost by unnailing the branches, and 

 tying them in bundles, each bundle to be thickly covered with 

 hay ropes, and tied up to large nails firmly fixed in the wall ; 

 or, extend the branches on the ground at the foot of the wall, 

 and cover them with litter. If old Gooseberry and Currant, 

 or standard Apple and Pear trees are infested with moss, a 

 good dredging of powdered quicklime put on when the bark 

 is moist will entirely destroy it, and render the stems and 

 bark clean and healthy. If the root-pruning of fruit trees is 

 considered necessary to check over-luxuriance, it should be at- 

 tended to without further delay. Anoint all trees and bushes 

 that are pruned, with a mixture of equal parts of cowdung, 

 clay, soot, and lime, brought to the consistence of paint vrith 

 strong soapsuds, urine, or the rich drainings of the dunghill. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



This has been a very favourable season for the blooming of 

 out-door Chrysanthemums, and I do not recollect to have ever 

 before seen them in such fine condition, or to so much ad- 

 vantage. For the autumn decoration of the flower garden, 

 especially in country places, they are certainly deserving of 

 more attention than has hitherto been bestowed on them. If 

 there is any tree, shrub, or plant, that the experience of past 

 seasons has proved to be susceptible of injury from frosts, or 

 the inclemency of the winter weather, it should be protected in 

 good time. Laurustinus, Variegated Hollies, or similar shrubs, 

 which have not grown kindly, ought to be supplied with a top- 

 dressing of rotten dung or leaf mould, to be placed over the 



