446 



JOUENAL OF HOETICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEB. 



[December 10, 1868. 



had for prnning. We have been so annoyed with birds, that 

 such as Gooseberry trees we avoid pruning as long as we can. 



OENAMENTAL DEPARTMENT. 



Here we have been very busy, altering, and making changes, 

 bnt most of the work has been referred to, especially planting for 

 cover and for permanent trees, re-arranging the rosery, &c., 

 and but for the lists given by Mr. Eadcljffe and others we 

 might have had sometluDg to say on that subject. — E. F. 



COVENT GAEDEN MARKET.— December 9. 



We have again received a supply of well-prown Fines from St. 

 Michael's, also a large snpply of home-grown for this period of the year. 

 Oranges are abnndant, and the market stands show plenty of vegetables 

 of excellent quality. Pears and Apples more than sufhcient for the 

 demand. 



FEriT. 



s. d. g. 



Apples grieve 1 6to2 



Aprlccta doz. 



Cherries lb. 



Chestnuts bnsh. 10 16 



Currants ^ sieve 



Black .'.. do. 



Bigs doz. 



Filberts lb. 9 1 



Cobs lb. 9 1 



Gooseberries ..quart 



Grapes, Hothouse, .lb. 3 6 



Lemons loo 4 8 



Melons each 2 



Nectarines doz. 



Ornnges 100 2 



Peaches doz. 



Pears (dessert) ..doz. 2 



Pine Apples lb. 3 



Ploms }^ sieve 



Quinces doz. 



Raspberries lb. 



Strawberries., per lb. 



Walnuts bush. 10 



do per 100 1 



a. B. i 

 oto5 n 







TEOETAELES. 



B. d. B. d 



Artichokes doz. 3 0to6 O] 



Asparagus 100 10 



Beans, Kidney ^ sieve 3 4 



Beet, Bed doz. 2 8 



Broccoli bundle 10 2 



Bras. Sprouts H sieve 2 



Cabbaf^e '. . doz. 10 2 



Capsicums 100 



Carrots bunch 4 8 



Cauliflower doz. 3 6 



Celery bundle 16 2 



Cucumbers each 9 16 



Bndive doz. 2 



Fennel bunch S 



Garlic lb. 8 



Herbs bunch 8 



Horseradish .. bundle 8 6 



Leeks bunch 



Lettuce per score 2 



Mushrooms .... pottle 2 



Mnstd.& Cress, punnet 



Onions per bushel 5 



Parsley per sieve 8 



Parsnips doz. 



Peas per quart 



Potatoes bushel 4 



Kidney de. 4 



Radishes doz. bunches 1 



Rhubarb bundle 



Sea-kale basket 3 



Shallots lb. 



Spinach bushel 2 



Tomatoes per doz. 1 



Turnips bunch 



d. B. d 



4 too 6 



4 

 

 8 



TRADE CATALOGUE RECEH^ED. 

 John Standish & Co., Eoyal Nursery, Ascot, Berks. — Cata- 

 log-ue of New and Eare Plants, Hardy Trees, Slmibs, Conifene, 

 American Plants, dc. With six coloured Plates. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



BooKg (J. R. M ). — We know of no books on emigrating to Xew Zealand. 

 (F.y.M.). — Keane's "In-door Gardening," Is. Cut.: "Out-door Garden- 

 ing," Is. 6rf. ; the "Garden Manual,"' Is.Gd.; the " Vine Manual," 2s. C(i. 

 You can have them all free by post from our office if you enclose the 

 amonnt in postage stamps with your address, and eight stamps for 

 postage. 



Manure for Roses (G. ff. M.I.— " I do not use charcoal. If you would 

 prevent mildew you mnst give the pot Roses air and syringinfis. From 

 want of these. Rnscs and other plants under glass suffer from mildew. I 

 should think that charcoal would not stop mildew. After Roses have pro- 

 duced their first series of bloom under glass, they should be moved out 

 into the air to ripen their bark and wood. Fresh pot your Roses, using 

 tnrfy loam. You cannot refresh them in pots with better stuff than 

 gnano water. — W. F. Radclyffe." 



Covers for Back Volumes (R. H.).—You can have covers for a year's 

 numbers of this Journal, but each only for six months. If you state your 

 address, mention what year you require the covers for, and enclose 

 thirty postage stamps, the covers will be sent to you postage paid from 

 this office. 



Storing Turnips {Q. C). — To keep them from being frosted pull them 

 up, cut off the leaves and tap roots close to the bulbs, pile these in a 

 heap, and cover them 9 inches deep with earth, smoothing the outside 

 with the back of the spade. 



Roses (F. G.).— With the exception of Aspasic, Hybrid Perpetual, the 

 varieties you npme are summer Roses. Comtcsse Lacepcde is good ; the 

 other two are useful, but superseded by better kinds. We know of no 

 work specially treating of the propagation of trees and shrubs. It is 

 against our rule to recommend one dealer in preference to another. 



Drainage from Cow House (T.).— Powdered chai-coal might deo- 

 dorise it. The drainage does not require diluting if applied to vacant 

 ground, and dug in for culinary crops. If applied to dormant fiower- 

 garden plants, two buekctsful of water to one of drainage would be a 

 safe proportion ; if to growing plants, five of water to one of drainage. 



Fowls' Ddng [J. J.l. — It is one of the most fertilising of manures. 

 Do not turn it over, bnt keep it under cover until required. Trench your 

 ground for the Carrots and Parsnips, and dig in about an inch in depth 

 with the bottom spit. Dig-in about .the same quantity with the surface 

 spit for Turnips and other vegetables. 



Propagating Briar Stocks for Roses (A Subscriber).— Rose stocks 

 when raised from seed are not so desirable as those propagated by 

 cuttings, as they are always apt to produce suckers plentifully ; but with 

 cuttings this is not the case, for the buds or eyes are taken out before the 

 cuttings are inserted in the ground, throughout the length of the part 

 that is to go into the soil. Instend of raising Briar stocks from seed, it 

 is mor* economical ',to purchase them; they can be obtained with stems 

 4 feet or more high at a small sum per hundred. If seed be sown, three 

 or four years at least must elapse before the plants would bo fit for 

 budding— that is, if they are intended for standards, whilst for dwarfs 

 they might be worked in the second or third year. You may gather the 

 heps of the Briar now, keep them in sand till the beginning of March, 

 pull them in pieces, and sow an inch apart in drills about 6 inches from 

 each other. The drills should be from three quarters of an inch to 1 inch 

 deep, and the seeds should be covered witli that depth of fine soil. The 

 soil should be light and rich. Care should be taken to protect them from 

 mice, which are very fond of the seed. It is likely you will have few if 

 any plants the first year, as the seed generally does not germinate the 

 first year. Keep the ground clear of weeds, and in the autumn of the 

 second year take up the plants and pl»nt out in good rich soil in lines 

 1 foot apart, and 6 inches from plant to plant in the row. 



Potting Seedling Pelargoniums (J. il/.). — You do not say when the 

 seed was sown, nor what size the plants ai*e. If sown early this year, 

 and in good health, you may bloom them very well in G-inch pots, which 

 are what we recommend ; but for small plants from seed sown in August, 

 or since then, that size of pot will not be required until they have been 

 stopped and have become good bushy plants, say in April. A good com- 

 post is formed of two-thirds turfy loam, and one-third leaf mould, with a 

 free admixture of silver sand. Mildew on Pelargoniums may be kept 

 under by dusting the plants with flowers of sulphur where affected. This 

 will not only destroy the mildew, hut act as a preventive. Give more air 

 — indeed, they should have fresh air every day, if only for an hour ; keep 

 cool and near the glass, and give no more water than is necessary to pre- 

 vent the leav s flagging 



Tniiips ON Cinerarias {An Inquirer).— The leaves were severely at- 

 tacked by thrips. which is the small long insect you notice. Dusting 

 with flowers of sulphur will not do «ny good unless the leaves are mil- 

 dewed. The only remedy is to fumigate on a calm evening, taking care 

 to have the foliage of the plants dry. Shut the house up closely, and fill 

 it with smoke so that a plant cannot be seen from the outside. Repeat 

 the fumigation whenever an insect of this kind is seen. 



Protecting Wellingtonia gigantea and Ccpressus macrocabpa 

 {L. M. E.). — Both are hardy and do not require protection; but if the 

 situation is very bleak and exposed you may drive some stakes into the 

 ground, and hang up mats so as to shelter the trees from cold violent 

 winds ; but such protection should only be employed in very severe 

 periods and until the plants become established. 



Ventilating Greenhouses ani> Frames (7(iem).— Damp mild weather 

 is the time of all others when ventilation should be most carefully at- 

 tended to. You cannot ventilate a greenhouse too much if you keep out 

 rain and do not lower the temperature below 40"^. Cold frames should 

 have air every day when the temperature of the external atmosphere is 

 40- ; but the lights ought not to be taken off during wet weather ; they 

 should then he merely tilted, so as to admit air and yet keep the plants 

 dry. Nothing is so injurious in wintering plants as allowing them to 

 become soaked with wet. 



Pruning Raspberries {M. P.).— When the canes are more than 4 feet 

 long shorten them to that height, which is quite long enough, and when 

 of less height than that we like to cut off the small parts or ends of 

 the canes, cutting back to some good eyes, as from the most plump 

 eyes and strongest wood the finest largest fruit is produced. When the 

 canes are very strong they may be shortened to 5 feet. The shortening 

 or cutting-back should not be done until the end of February or begin- 

 ning of March, as when it is done before winter the canes are liable to 

 sufier from frost if it should prove severe. 



Planting Clu:\ips of Forest Trees (G. A. B.).— It would be difficult 

 to say what would be the best form for the clumps ; but for such small 

 clumps as those you name we would have the Beech in a circle, and make 

 it the centre clump, placing the Oak and Chestnut in separate clumps at 

 the side of the Beech, and not in a straight line, but dotted irregularly. 

 These we would plant in ovals. We would plant 4 feet from the margin, 

 and allow 8 feet from plant to plant, placing a shrub between each. 

 Common and Portugal Laurel, Yew, Aucuba, tree Eos, and Lanrustinus 

 are good plants for planting along with trees to form undergrowth. If 

 you do not plant shriabs, the Oaks, Beech, and Chestnut should be planted 

 4 feet apart. 



"Wire FOR Peach Trees, &c. {W.Osborne), — Addressed to "Thy," wo 

 answered your queries at page 411. 



Out-of-doors Vines (Grajj*.).— Plant without delay; it is full late, 

 unless the Vines are in pots, and can then be turned out and planted in 

 the border at any time. Apply to the nurserymen inyourneighboorhood 

 —they all have the Koyal Muscadine and Black Hamburgh. The latter 

 ripens well against an open wall at Winchester. 



Training Vines (iifodcr).— Your success in growing Vines first verti- 

 cally and then angularlv across the roof, will depend ou having the Vines 

 trained so thinly that the sun will reach the base of the vertical part. 

 Some time ago we described a span-roofed house of Mr. Hawkins's near 

 Hitchen, where the Vines were planted in the centre of the h&use and 

 bore right down to the gi-ound ; but though Vines went along the roof, 

 top and bottom, there was a dear open space in the roof for the benefit 

 of the vei-tical part. \ve would disbud as soon as we could select the 

 fruiting spurs, and with the general proposed management we thoroughly 

 agree. 



Planting out Vines from Pots [E.H. C.).— If the Vines have fruited 

 at all heavily in pots, they will do little good when planted out in a vinery. 

 They would'have a good chance if you shook the earth from their roots 

 repotted them, cut them down to a bud or two, and grew them in pots' 

 until midsummer, and then planted them out, or even deferred the plant- 

 ing until next season. We would far prefer a Vine that has not fruited 

 to one that has done so in a pot. 



Flowt:r Beds Planting (TIM.— Your plan is simple, and the proposed 

 planting is simple and will look well. For the first eight beds from the 

 centre we would pair in similar shades of scarlet Pelargoniums, and ring 



