December 17, 1868. 1 



JOURNAL OP HOBTIOULTURB AND OOTTAQB GARDBNEE. 



463 



Miiintil'a Flora van Nodorlandsch Indie. Vol. i., Part 1, Vol. ii. 

 and Snjiploment. 



Mohl and Srhlechtondal'a Botanischo Zeitnng. Complete to end of 



1863, except Nos. it and lU for 1863. 



Moore's Indox Filicnm. Parts 1—11, 14, 1,''), 17, IH. 



Muller'a Plants Indigenous to the Colony of Victoria. Vol. i., and 

 1 vol. lithographs. 



Mailer's Fragmonta Pliytographiffi Australiffi. Vola. i. — iv. 



Nees von Esenbock's Genera Plautamm Flora) Germanicee. Seven 

 Vols., as far as Chamairops. 



Parlatoro's' Flora Italiaua. Vol. ii.. Part 2. Vol. iii.. Parts 1, 2. 



Paxton's Flower Garden, by Lindloy and Paxton. Vol. i., 1850 — 

 1851, Vol. iii., lS.i2— 1.S53, and No. 18. 



Payei-'s Elements de Botaiiique. Iro Partie, Organographio. 



Persoon's Synopsis Plantarnm. Vol. ii. only. 



Poraologicai Magazine. Vols. i. — iii. 



Bamou de la Sagra'a Histoire de I'llo de Cnba. Botaniqne, Vol. ii. 

 only ; Plantes vasculaires and Atlas. 



Keicheubach's Xenia Orchidacea. Vol. i., and three parts Vol. ii. 



Revno Horticole. Third and Fourth Series complete, 1847 — 1860, 

 and Fifth Series, Vols, i.— iv.. 1861—1864, except Nos. 10, 14, 22, for 



1864, also Nos. 20—24, for 1865. 



Schleiden and Nageli, Zeitschrift' fur Wisaenschaftliche Botanik. 

 Heft. 1, 8, and 4. 



Schrader's Monographia Verbasci. Sectio 1. 



Scientific Memoirs, selected from the Transactions of Foreign 

 Academies, edited by Henfrey and Huxley. Parts 1 — 4. 



Scottish Gardener. Vol. v. 



Seringe's Flore du Pharmacien. To p. 283. 



Sibthorp's Flora Grieca, pars Lindleyana. Wants the'plates. 



Siebold's Flora Japouica. Vol. i. 



Thnnborg's Plantarnm Brasiliensinm. Decades, 2, .^. 



Thwaites' Ennmeratio Plantnrum Zeylaniaa. Parts 1 — 4. 



Torrey and Gray's Flora of North America. Vol. i., Vol. ii., Parts 

 1—3. 



Treviranns' Erscheinnngen tmd Gesetzen des Organiachen Lebens. 

 Vol. i. 



Tulasne's Selecta Fungornm Carpologia. Vol. i., Erysiphei. 

 Vol. ii., Xylariei, Valsei, Sphteriei. 



Walper' Annales Botanices Systematica. Vols. i. — v., and Vol. vi.. 

 Parts 1—6. 



"Warner's Select Orchidaceous Plants. Plate 36 deficient. 



"Weddell's Chloris Andiua. Vols. i. — ii. 



Wight's Icones Plantarnm, Indite Orientalis. Plates 1565, 1566 de- 

 ficient. 



Willkomm and Lange's Prodromus Florje Hi.spaniffi, Vol. i. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



At this season, with the constantly varying weather,'|little 

 can be done in the kitchen garden. In light dry soils, how- 

 ever, a small sowing of the Early Frame Pta may be made. 

 This will come in a little earlier than the crop sown in spring. 



FRCIT OARDEN. 



As there is comparatively not much of importance to attend 

 to at this season, a good opportunity is afforded for renovating 

 old borders, or formiug new ones. The first work to be attended 

 to, after removing unfavourable soil, is to render the border 

 dry by forming a drain in front, the top of the drain being 

 deeper than the bottom of the border, giving that border a good 

 inclination from back to front, and then rendering it imper- 

 vious to the roots of trees. Grouting with lime and gravel ap- 

 pears to be the best and cheapest means of effecting this object. 

 A hard bottom may be dispensed with in favourable circum- 

 stances, particularly if there is no necessity for cropping the 

 borders, as then by mulching the surface the roots would be 

 encouraged to the top. From Ij to 2 feet will be depth enough 

 of good soil, where healthy fruit trees in opposition to mere 

 laxuriance, are the object, giving the greater depth to Pear and 

 Plum trees. Vines, &c., and the less depth to Peach and Nec- 

 tarine trees. The next proceeding is to obtain a good supply 

 of hazel-coloured loam, if it can be procured. This will answer 

 admirably of itself for the Apple and Pear, for the Plum if 

 kept somewhat adhesive, for the Cherry, if sand or road drift be 

 added for the more tender sorts, for the Peach and Nectarine 

 with the addition of about one-third of road drift or sandy matter, 

 and a little leaf mould it the soil is naturally adhesive, and for 

 Apricots, with less sand than for Peaches, a greater depth of 

 soil being afforded. For Figs it will be better to restrain the 

 extension of the roots, to keep the tree growing from one stem 

 instead of forming suckers, and to supply necessary nourish- 

 ment by mulching. For Vines the same soil will suit well, 

 but it must be mixed with calcareous matter, such as lime 

 rubbish, &c., and well manured with broken and bruised bones 

 in preference to hotbed or other manure, as being more lasting 



in their efleots, and because the latter, when buried deeply, 

 becomes useless, from being placed beyond the decomposing 

 influence of the air. The addition of brickbats and large lumps 

 of porous sandstone interspersed in the border, so as to keep 

 it open, will be an advantage. Kaspberriea, and all kinds of fruit 

 trees, may now be pruned. With regard to the former, which 

 produce their fruit entirely on the previous year's wood, the old 

 shoots should be removed, and four or live of the strongest of 

 the young ones tied up in their places, cutting clean off to the 

 root all the rest of the young shoots. After they are tied to the 

 stakes shorten them to 4 feet in height. In exposed situations 

 a good way of training Easpberries is to tie the points of one- 

 half of the shoots on the stools to those of the next stool, 

 tlins forming arches, which have rather a neat appearance. 

 This will also be found a favourable opportunity in case of very 

 adhesive soil, for burning the most retentive part of it, using 

 for this purpose the prunings of trees and any other rubbish. 

 The scattering of the burned part will greatly ameliorate the 

 working of the soil, or if it be deemed preferable, such prun- 

 ings, along with Cabbage stumps, old tan, sawdust, &c., may be 

 charred, and then the produce will be a useful top-dressing for 

 Onions and other crops. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



The tender varieties of Roses should be protected at once, 

 otherwise it may be too late to save them. Also, obtain the stock 

 of Briars for budding upon next year without delay, for unless 

 these are planted before spring they seldom furnish strong shoots 

 for early budding. Many persons object strongly to planting 

 shrubs or trees in winter, believing that the roots, if injured at 

 this season, are liable to rot, and certainly the early part of 

 autumn is a preferable season ; but in this favourable weather 

 do not delay such work a single day, and if the soil is properly 

 prepared by draining, &c., where necessary, as it should always 

 be before planting, there will probably be fewer failures in 

 planting now than if the work were delayed until March. 



GBEEKHOUSE AND CONSEUVATORY. 



Although we have many beautiful plants which either bloom 

 naturally at this season, or require but little artificial manage- 

 ment to cause them to do so, a scarcity of flowers is, perhaps, 

 more commonly experienced at this than at any other period of 

 the year. 'Where the display is, to a large extent, dependant 

 on what we term forced plants, considerable foresight and at- 

 tention will be necessary for some time in order to maintain a 

 regular supply, for plants are not so easily excited into bloom 

 in the dead of winter as in spring ; and in selecting plants for 

 forcing, every possible care should be exercised to choose snoh 

 as are not likely to prove failures, for of those which are suit- 

 able for forcing, many will bloom but poorly if they are sub- 

 jected to a high temperature without being allowed a suffi- 

 cient time to recruit their energies after making their growth. 

 Next to Camellias, Indian Azaleas are the most showy plants 

 that can be had in bloom at this season, and where there is a 

 good stock of these to draw upon, some of the most forward 

 varieties of the commoner sorts should be placed in heat at 

 once, moistening them overhead two or three times a-day. 

 Those Camellias which are now in bloom and opening their 

 bloom buds should stand in the lightest, healthiest structure, 

 and the house where they are should be kept free from 

 cold evaporated moisture, as such, at this and the coming 

 season for a time, is particularly injurious to the duration of 

 the blooms, and the permanency of their colours, causing 

 blotches and mildewed spots. Healthy strong plants which are 

 loaded with a heavy crop of bloom buds, and are about com- 

 mencing to bloom, may be greatly assisted by weak applications 

 of clear tepid manure water. Dutch bulbs should be largely 

 used for present forcing, and when hardy shrubs are forced for 

 the decoration of this house they should be brought into flower 

 as soon as circumstances admit, for although many of these 

 are very showy when well bloomed, and acceptable enough 

 when had in flower in winter, they hardly seem in place imder 

 glass in spring. Damp and insects at this season do irreparable 

 damage to softwooded plants in the greenhouse, and these must 

 be very carefully attended to if they are to be carried over the 

 winter in first-rate condition. Pelargoniums should be kept 

 rather cool and dry, giving whatever water may be necessary 

 in the mornings of fine days, so that the superfluous moisture 

 may be dispelled before evening, avoiding fire heat, except 

 when necessary to prevent the temperature falling below 40", 

 or to dispel damp when this cannot safely be done by giving 

 air. Keep the shoots thiu, rubbing off .such as can be spared, 

 and if green fly is perceived on any of the plants, apply tobacco 

 smoke at once. Cinerarias for late blooming mast be kept cool 



