January IC, 1866. 1 



JOURNAL OF HOBTIOULTUKE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



51 



the dimensioDB of tho brickH can to a certain extent be accom- 

 modated, but where Good work is wanted tho bricks cannot be 

 too regular in size. 



In constructing 1 1-inch walls in Flemish bond, on one side 

 a half brick must be used for a header, whilst on tho other side a 

 whole brick is laid (seeyi,''- *^)- I" the next course (jiij. '.)), the 

 headers are reversed, so that they will lie on the course of 

 headers on the other side, and the third course (fiij. 10), is laid 

 with whole headers in place of half headers. The headers are 





Fig. 9. — 14-mch \S'all, Flemish bond. 2nd course. 



made to cross the internal as well as external stretchers, and 

 there will be a thorough bonding of the work, but it is at the 

 expense of putting two cotuses on the same side of the wall 



' 



Pig. 10.— 14-incIi Wall, Flemish bond. 3rd conrso. 

 with half bricks for headers. The headers in the next course 

 will cross the headers in the third course, and so on. If the 

 headers are carried up perpendicularly, the wall will have a 

 neater appearance than it would have if it were built in English 



Fig. 11.— 14-inch V. aU, Eaglish bond. Ist course, 

 bond, examples of the courses of which are shown in Jif/s. 11 

 and 12. In this mode of building the headers are laid in al- 

 ternate courEes, with first a row of headers and then a row of 

 stretchers, there being a row of headers on one aide, and a row 



Fig. 13.— 14-ineh Wall, English bond. 2nd conise. 



of stretchers in every course. This makes a very good bond ; 

 but in ordinary building it is not usual to lay a row of headers 

 upon every course of stretchers, but to put four courses of 

 stretchers and then a row of headers, which is not so tedious 

 to build, but the work is not so good. 

 Hollow walls are built both in Flemish and English bond. 



Fig. 13.— 14-inch Hollow Wall. 1st course. 



but the former is much preferable, hence it is the only kind of 

 hollow wall which I shall describe. As in the case of a 14-inch 

 solid wall, the headers and stretchers are laid alternately, tho 

 tirst header on one side being a whole brick, and all the others 





Fig. 14. — 14-inch Hollow WaU. '2ud course. 



half; bricks, except every fifth header, which is a whole brick. 

 (See-figs. 13 and 14.) On the other side of the wall the third 

 header is a whole brick, and then every fifth afterwards, so 

 that every third header is a fuU-leDgth header, but on opposite 

 sides of the wall ; all the other headers are half bricks. The 

 hollow part may begin at the ground line, the wall being buUt 

 solid up to that, and then carried up hollow to within three or 



T 



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four courses of tho top, which should be built solid the same as 

 tho base, as shown in _/;,<;. l.'i. 



It is desirable that the joints in all brickwork should, 

 be small ; indeed, thej- cannot be 

 worked too closely ; that the horizon- 

 tal joints should be on one level, 

 which will be the case if the bricks 

 are laid on an even bod of mortar ; 

 and that the perpendicular joints in 

 l''lemish bond should not only cross 

 but bo quite perpendicular, though 

 separated from those above or below 

 by stretchers. 



Walls are best built in mUd 

 weather, for should the nights prove 

 severe the mortar will, to a certain 

 extent, fall out from the joints on a 

 thaw taking place, whilst if built in 

 very wet weather, heavy rains beat- 

 ing against the new brickwork cause 

 the mortar to run, giving the wall 

 an unsightly appearance. In build- 

 ing in dry weather the bricks absorb 

 the water from the mortar too 

 quickly, consequently good work is 

 not then made, unless the bricks are 

 well sprinkled with water. 



Good pointing i,s essential to a 

 good wall, and the bricks should be 

 so bedded that it will not be neces- 

 sary to force any mortar in, but 

 simply to dress the joints off with 

 the trowel. Fancy pointing is not 

 required for garden walls, unless 

 under peculiar circumstances, and 

 where a wire trellis is to be fixed ; for 

 nailing soon spoils the appearance 

 of a " dressed-off " wall. 



Having now referred to most of 

 the essentials for a garden wall, I 

 will next notice copings. There is, 

 perhaps, nothing equal to stone for 

 copings, where it can be had at a 

 moderate cost. 1 have seen three 

 kinds of coping employed, the V, the 

 flat, and the dished, each having 

 its advocates, but I have no doubt 

 as to the dished being the best. 

 However, as tastes may differ, I give 

 examples of the three. 



Fig. 16, is a high V-coping 18 ins. 

 in breadth, 6 inches in depth in the 

 centre, and 1 inch at the edges. This 

 is too high in the centre for garden 

 walls, unless they are required to be 

 ornamental. 



Fig. 17, is a low V-coping 18 ins. 

 in breadth, 4 inches in depth in the Fig. la. 



centre, and 1 inch at the edges. Both this and the preceding 

 have a small groove or throating beneath on both sides, to pre- 

 vent the diip running down the wall. 



Fig. 16. Fig. 17. Fig. IS. 



Fig. 18 represents a flat coping 18 inches in breadth, and 

 i inches in depth on one side, and 3 inches on the other, so that 

 water may run vS. On the lower side there is a groove be- 

 neath the projection. 



Fig. 10 is a dished coping, the stone being 4 inches thick, 

 and dished-out in the centre 1 inch, having 

 an inoUne from tho centre inwards, and 

 also longitudinally along the wall or coping, 

 so that water will not only run from the 

 sides to the centre but .ilong tho wall ; the 

 channel, beginning at level, will at 12 feet 

 be 1 inch in depth, and it shoull incline 

 both ways. At every 12 feet there should be a pipe to convey 

 tho water away, consequently there will be no drip. 



Fig. 19. 



