80 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGK GARDENER. 



[ Januar; 23, 1868. 



grow well, reach to the full extent of the rafters the first season, and to 

 encumber the rafters with Cucumbers would tend to foster red spider 

 and thrips. Unless you can keep the Cucumbers distinct from the Vines. 

 do not attempt them ; but it pays best to grow one thing well rather 

 than two or more indifTerentiy. Give the Vines every chance, and if 

 you have Cucumbers let them be secondary to the Vines. 



Sieve of Apples (J. ^.).— A sieve contains seven imperial gallons. 



Cineraria Flowers Petalless (J. W. B.).— We do not think all the 

 buds on the specimens sent would not have had petals— indeed, some of 

 them have, but many of them are blind. The specimens are fully a 

 month from the blooming state. We should attribute the flowers having 

 no petals to defective impregnation of the flowers producing the seed, 

 and we aliould think the fault lay with the pollen. The specimens show 

 the plants to be very healthy and fine, and we think if you will have 

 patience that you will yet have a fine bloom. 



Apple Trees Covered with Moss (B. Fi?m).— The chief cause of the 

 stems of fruit trees becoming covered with moss is the soil being wet 

 and undrained. Moss will also luxuriate on trees in poor light soils if 

 not liberally manured. To free the trees of the moss you should make 

 them quile'wet bvsATinging with water, and then, or after a heavy rain, 

 when the branches are wet, sprinkle each tree with quicklime, covering 

 it as equally in everv part as possible. A rather thick coating should be 

 given, and lime of the most caustic quality is best. We cannot account 

 for your not being able to grow Parsley, having no data. 



Propagating Chrysanthemums (B. Sa7idown}.~Th0 best way to pro- 

 pagate Chrysanthemums for out-door purposes, is to take off' the well- 

 rooted sliort-jointed stiff suckers and pot them singly in small pnts. 

 Place them in a cold frame, keeping them close for a time, or until they 

 commence growing, when air should be given and the plants well j 

 hardoned-off before planting out. The suckers may be taken ofi' from I 

 now up to April. In frostv weather the frame should he covered with 

 mats. Failing a frame, the' suckers may be planted about 3 inches apart ; 

 in light soil in a sheltered situation, planting them out with a ball in 

 April, or when they become well rooted. 



Pear Tree Suckers (Hem).— The suckers that rise from old Pear-tree 

 roots ought to be eut off quite close to the roots, the soil being removed 

 for the purpose. If cut ofl' at the surface they only increase in number ; 

 either dig or pull them up. 



Saponaria calabrica Sowing (Hem).— Ton may, if your soil is light 

 and the ground not very wet, sow the seed early in March ; but you will 

 gain nothing by sowing early if the ground is wet and cold. The plants 

 will grow much bettor if the seed be not sown until the beginnmg of 



Pldm Grafting (H. L., Ojon).— Grafting is not a desirable mode of j 

 propagating the Plum, for, should the grafts take, gum or canker is apt 

 to ensue. For success the scions should be taken off early, now bemg a | 

 good time, and it ought not to bo deferred beyond the beginning of Feb- ] 

 mary The stocks, too, should be headed down now near to the place 

 where the scion is to be put on. If the stock is headed down, or the 

 scion taken at the time of grafting, or both, success becomes very uncer- 

 tain The proper time to graft is when the sap is rising freely in the 

 stocks which is generaUv in March. Budding maybe performed in July, 

 when the bark parts freely from the wood. In grafting, if dry weather 

 follow success is rendered more certain by drawing the soil up in the 

 form of a cone over the clay. You will not succeed with grafting the old 

 Green Gage Plum tree. You might probably succeed if you were to in- 

 sert some buds on the young wood. 



Maggots in Apple Tree (7don)— We think the fleshy white grub is 

 the larva of the Apple-borer (Saperda bivittata), a brown and white- 

 striped beetle that deposits its ecgs in the coUar of the tree in June and 

 July The grub takes two or three years to go through all its transfor- 

 mations, penetrating the stem, and causing the death of the tree by con- 

 suming the alburnum. You operated just at the right time. Any re- 

 maining may be destroyed by thrusting a piece of wire into their holes. 

 It is said that washing the stems with a solution of 1 lb. potash in four 

 quarts of water will prevent attacks. We should cover the stem from 

 which the bark is gone with clay, which, no doubt, would encourage the 

 formation of fresh bark more speedily than wore the stem left bare. 

 Grafting clay will do. 



Liquid Manure for Forced Rhubarb (Wnii).— In the forcing of 

 Khubarb on dung in a frame, watering with liquid manure, if not power- 

 ful, could not do any harm. We are not certain it would do good. 



Bedding Plants in Pit (Man of A'e nf).— Your Pelargoniums that were 

 cut back and now have small leaves about the size of a shilling, will not 

 give you any cuttings in spring. They will not do more than make good 

 Blants by bedding-out time, and if you take cuttings you will spoil the 

 Dlants for making a good display in summer. You could not force the 

 old plants without spoiling the cuttings, and we would, therefore, con- 

 tinue the plants in the pit, and let them become fine plants, which arc 

 far better for making a display than a lot of late-struck cuttings. You 

 could make up a bed for cuttings, and some of the plants would certainly 

 afl'ord a supply ; at least the cuttings in boxes will need heading-down. 

 and they wiU afford excellent cuttings. One frame could be used for 

 this purpose, and the other would serve admirably for your Pelargonium 

 cuttings in boxes when you pot them. It is much too soon to pot them 

 off- March would bo a good time with you. The Calceolarias would do 

 admirably in the cold frame, and are better without heat, but will need 

 protection from frost. Calceolaria cuttings now put in will make hue 

 Dlants by beddingo-at time. Thev succeed without heat. The fibrous 

 loam would answer admirably for potting off the Pelargonium cuttings 

 and for the potting of the old plants in April; but we would take equal 

 Darts of the fibrous loam, of the half-decayed turf chopped fine, and leal 

 mould adding a liberal admixture of Reigate sand. The turf will be in 

 fine condition by autumn. You will need aU spare frame room for the 

 Verbena cutting.s. Lobelias, ic. The Mrs. Pollock Pelargonium not cut 

 back will afford you cuttings, but we would not take them off until you 

 can give them a gentle heat, and it will do when you make up your bed 

 for cuttings in March. The cuttings would not succeed it put in pots 

 and kept where the old plant is stationed. The old plant would do better 

 in the pit, and the cuttings in a hotbed. 



Begonias (Jiidi/).— We think Marshalli, Lewi, President Van den 

 Hecke, and Pearcei are as handsome as any of the flne-foliaged Begonias. 

 They will do fairly in a room, but to succeed will require to bo kept in 

 a glass case and in a warm room, or heated plant case. 



Compost for the Tomato (J. H.).— The Tomato succeeds in a com- 

 post of two-thirds turfy loam and one-third leaf mould or well-rotten 

 manure, well incorporated. To obtain strong plants for planting out in 

 May it is necessary that the seed be placed in a hotbed, and the pUnta 

 potted-off when large enough, and forwarded in heat, hardening them 

 well off before planting out. 



Soil for Melons {LUm). — The best soil for Melons is a strong unctuous 

 loam, the top 3 or 4 inches of a pasture. Cut in autumn and placed in a 

 heap, this will bo in fine condition in spring. 



Select Rhododendrons for Beds (ilf. H. R. — We would not have 

 groups of one kind unless there were a number of beds, then a group of 

 each of the following would he very effective: — Blandyauum superbum, 

 light crimson, dwarf habit; Comet, scarlet; Atro-sanguineum, blood red; 

 Barclayanuni, reddish rose ; John Waterer, crimson ; Maculatum pur- 

 pureuni, purplish rose, spotted ; Victoria, plum ; William Downing, dark 

 puce ; Lady Lopes, waxy rose ; Alarm, centre white, edged with light 

 scarlet ; Blanche Superbe, waxy white ; and Papilionacea, pale lilac, 

 changing to white. If you require more variety you may add Neilsoni, 

 rosy lake; Madame Titiens, vivid rose; Toward!, rosy lilac; Ninon de 

 I'Enclos, rose ; Picturatum superbum, white, dark spots ; Princess of 

 Wales, magenta edge, white centre; Leviathan, pinkish white; Jenny 

 Lind, rose ; Duke of Cambridge, crimson scarlet; Chloe, crimson bike; 

 Lady Dorothy Nevill, purple spotted with black ; Hogarth, rosy crimson ; 

 and Faust, lilac blotched. We should prefer plants one or two years from 

 the graft set with bloom buds. 



Select Evergreen Shrubs (Zdem).— Cotoneaster Simmonsii, C. mi- 

 crophylla ; Daphne olcwides variegata; CoUctia bictonensis; Viburnum 

 tiuus, V. tinus atrovirens, V. tinus strictum ; Double-flowering Furze; 

 Spartium junceum, S. multiflomm, S. scoparium ; Raphiolepis ovata ; 

 Skimmia japonica ; and variegated and green-leaved Hollies in great 

 variety. The following are good ;— Ilex latifolia, I. Tarago, which have 

 very large leaves and do not stand wind well, therefore require a sheltered 

 situation; I. altaclerense, I. balearica, glabra; Hodginsii, madereusis, 

 nigrescens, and Shepherdii, which have fine broad leaves; I. crassifolia, 

 myrtifolia, cihata, and angustifolia have small leaves; I. Doningtoneosis, 

 which has long narrow leaves, and I. Fisheri ; Gold-edged, Gold Queen, 

 Gold-blotched, Handaworth New Silver, Silver Queen, Silver-edged, Silver- 

 blotched, Gold-blotched Screw-leaved, and the Gold and Silver-elged 

 Hedgehog. In addition to the above there are Aucuba japonica ; Arbatus 

 unedo ruber ; Berberis Darwinii, B. japonica, B. Bealii, and B. trifoliata ; 

 Buxus marginata, sulphurea, aurea, argentea, and Handsworthi'.ina ; 

 Desfontainea spinosa; Escallonia macrantha; Eurya latifolia variegita; 

 Ligustrum japonicum; Cerasus lauroccrasus, and vars. colchicus and 

 foliis variegatis; C. ilicifolius, C. lusitanicus myrtifolius ; Cham-xbiitia 

 foliosa ; the gold and tilver variegated varieties of Euonymus japonicus ; 

 and Berberis aquifolium. If you wish for Coniferie you may plant Abies 

 canadensis, A. morindn, A. Menziesii, and A. Douglasii ; Araucaria imbri- 

 cata; Cedrus deodara, C. Libani ; Cryptomeria japonica ; Cupressus Law- 

 soniana, C.macrocarpa, C. majestica ; Chama'cj-paristhurifera; Juniperus 

 chinensis, J Sabiua, J. excelsa, J. suecica, and J. virginiana, and virgi- 

 niana glauca ; Picea nobilis, P. Nordmanniana, and P. pinsapo ; Pinus 

 iiustriaca, P. cembra, P excelsa; Taxusadpressa, T.fastigiata ; Thuj jpsis 

 borealis ; Thuja Lobbii, T. occidentalis, T. Warreana, T. orientalis, and 

 T. aurea; Wellingtonia gigantea. 



Select Deciduous-flowering Shrubs iLU^m). — Double-flowering 

 Peaches ; Calycanthus lioridus ; Cerasus japonica multiplex ; Chimonan- 

 thus fragrans, should have a wall with south aspect, as the flowers are 

 produced in winter ; Cratipgus oxyacantba. Double Red, Double Sc irlet, 

 Double Pink, and Double White ; Cydonia japonica alba, and C. japonica 

 rosea ; Cytisus alpinus ; Daphne mezereum, and its white variety ; 

 Deutzia gracilis, D. scabra, D. crenata flore-pleno ; Forsythia viridissima ; 

 Genista tinctoria flore pleno ; Hibiscus syriacus, double and single varie- 

 ties ; Hydrangea japonica ; Kerria japonica flore-pleno ; Leycesteria for- 

 mosa; Magnolia conspicua Soulangeana ; Myrica gale; Pffionia Moutan 

 varieties; Philadelphus corouarius, and its double variety ; Prunus spi- 

 nosa flore-pleno, P. triloba flore-pleno; Rhus cotinus, R. elegans ; Ribes 

 aureum, R. sanguineum album and atro-mbrum ; Spirffia caUosa, S. co- 

 rymbosa, S. ariffifolia, S. prunifolia flore-pleno, S. salicifolia panicalata 

 alba, and S. hypericifolia omenta ; Syringa persica alba and laciniata, 

 S. vulgaris alba ; also Lilacs Charles X., Dark Blue, Double Purple, and 

 Dr. Lindley ; Viburnum opulus, V. opulus nanum ; Weigela rosea, W. ama- 

 bilis alba, and W. Van Houttei. 



LIHUM oigantedm (C. it.).— You have done right to give but little or 

 no water during the winter. In February we would advise you to shift it 

 into a pot a size larger, in a compost of turfy loam two-thirds, and one- 

 third very rotten manure or leaf mould. In potting you may remove all 

 the loose' soil, but do not disturb the roots more than can be helped. 

 Good drainage is essential. When it is growing water it abundantly, and 

 set the pot in a saucer of water. After growth keep dry and expose fully 

 to light and air. Do not throw it away, but give every encouragement to 

 grow-th ; let that be well ripened, and your plant will assuredly bloom. 



Cyclamen afbicanum iSaiidou'n).—Y'ou would have done well to have 

 potted it so that the corm would have been covered with soil. It com- 

 mences growth in autumn. Your bulb will probably remain dormant 

 until next autumn. We would plunge the pot out of doors in an open 

 situation, but shaded from the fierce rays of the sun at midday, pluagmg 

 so that the rim of the pot will be level with the surface, and cover the pot 

 and for some distance around it with leaf mould or cocoa-nut fibre refuse 

 2 or 3 inches thick, leaving it there until next autumn. If you grow it in- 

 doors you should keep the soil moist. No supplement to the " Cjttage 

 Gardener's Dictionary " has been pubUshed. 



Clematises for Training on Trees ( M. H. B.).— The new Clematises 

 are not suitable for such a purpose, but need open situations. C. montana, 

 C. montana grandiflora, C. florida plena, C. vitalba, C. viticella. and 

 C. viticella flore-pleno and major would probably succeed, and so will all 

 if the situation be open, or but partially shaded. All are quite hardy. 



Names of Fruits (.4 Novicei.— l, Beurre Diel; 2, Passe Colmar; 



3, March Bergamot. , ., .,t , , . 



Names of Plants (J. W. W.).— Calceolaria rugosa. (W. W.).—\, As- 

 plenium sp. ; 2, Sonerila sp. ; 3, Eranthemum leuconeurum ; 4, Gymnos- 

 tachvum Verschaffeltii ; B, Selaginella i bad specimen) ; 6, Selaginella 

 Mttrtensii;6, Asplenium nidus!?); 8, Adiantiun cuneatum, var. ; 9, A 

 garden Peiargonium ; 10, Doodia sp. Send better specimens. It is not 

 possible to identity Ferns from barren fronds in a young state with 

 precision. 



