Febrnar; 20, 1868. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTIOOLTUBE AND COTTAGE OABDENER. 



147 



GLADIOLUS CULTURE, AND FOR ROOM 



^_55,_,=v. 



DECORATION. 

 T.SERVEDIiY the Gladiolus has become a 

 favoiu'ite llower, and many of its varieties 

 ore so reduced in price that it is now almost 

 within the reach of the cottager. 



This flower has many good properties. 

 Perhaps one of its gi'eatest is its suitability 

 for decorative purposes. When cut and in- 

 ^J^ terraixed with other flowers for the drawing- 



■^ room it will not \vither in two or three days 



as an ordinary flower does, but, with care 

 and attention in taking off a little of the lower part of the 

 stem, supplying fresh water, and removing the decaying 

 blooms, a succession of expanding buds enables it to retain 

 its place for a fortnight at least. 



It can be advantageous!)- appropriated to window de- 

 coration, interspersed witli other plants to form a con- 

 trast. Take a bottle, of which the neck must be sufiiciently 

 wide to admit the stem of a Gladiolus, and plunge it into 

 sou in a flower pot — a deep, narrow pot is the most suitable 

 for tliis pm-pose — flll the bottle nearly full of water, and 

 cut a spike the height that may be required, introducing 

 a few blades of its foliage to give it the appearance of a 

 growing plant. By attention as above, by keeping up a 

 supply of fresh water, and. of course, preventing the rays of 

 the hot sun from falling directly upon the spike, I think that 

 all who try tliis method ^"ill feel themselves compensated 

 for the slight trouble the}' have taken. Tliose ■^^•ho gi'ow 

 the bulbs in beds or groups can always take a few spOies 

 for tliis purpose without materially injuring the appearance 

 of the garden : hence one of the advantages of grouping. 



A succession of bloom may be kept up by amateurs or 

 gentlemen's gardeners for from four to five months. There 

 are two ways of accomplishing this : — 1st, bj- planting at 

 difl'erent times ; 2ndly, by a careful selection of large and 

 small bulbs. 



Perhaps I may here be permitted to say tliat I have 

 been an ardent florist for more than forty years, and have 

 cultivated bulbous-rooted plants to a considerable extent. 

 I commenced the culture ef Gladioli as soon as they 

 came into repute, and have paid special attention to them. 

 They are more hardy than the generality of people are 

 disposed to tliink ; however, I paid a penalty in testing 

 then- hardiness bj- losing upwards of two hundred bulbs ; 

 but, under ordinary cii'cumstances and in a favourable situa- 

 tion, they may T\ath safety be planted, weather permitting, 

 in the latter part of February or the early part of Marcli. 

 \Vlien they are about to break through the surface, a little 

 protection is necessary, such as straw, dry litter, or cocoa- 

 nut fibre ; but for those who can aft'ord it, thick Notting- 

 ham lace hooped over about a foot high is less unsightly, 

 and can easily be removed eveiy favourable day. 



Some persons recommend artificial heat, this I strongly 

 object to for bulbs that are intended for the open ground ; 

 but if early blooming is required, I rather prefer to plant 

 in pots, and plimge in a cold frame, choosing my largest 

 bulbs and the early varieties for this purpose ; in fact, I 



No. 860. -Vol. XTV., New Semes. 



consider it a good plan to plunge in this way, at different 

 periods, to obtain a succession of bloom when there is 

 convenience at hand to do so. 



In potting for the cold frame, first insert crocks, then a 

 little sound turf mixed with sand and leaf mould ; next put 

 in the bulb, and cover it with sand and crushed charcoal', 

 filling up with the previous compost. Be cautious not to 

 give too much water. When planting-out, remove tlie top 

 soil, or rather turn it back, and add a little more sand and 

 charcoal. 



I would impress upon all cultivators of the Gladiolus 

 the absolute necessity of a dry bottom or good drainage. I 

 have been rather amused at the detailed account given by 

 " B., Darlini/ton " (see page 4), of his friend's mode of grow- 

 ing. He digs out his bed to a depth of 3 feet. (It being 

 strong soU, I hope there is a drain from the bottom.) The 

 first layer consists of 4 inclies of turf ; then I calculate that 

 there will be !J or 10 inches of rotten cow dung (it is a pity 

 to waste such good stufl': it often cannot be obtained), and 

 18 inches of turf and loam ; then come the bulbs in cocoa- 

 nut fibre, and 4 or 5 inches of turf and loam upon this, 

 making the .'JO inches. Had I to make up his bed, and :J feet 

 deep, my experience would lead nie to proceed as follows : 

 (1 inclies of brick rubbish, then turn back upon tliis y inches 

 of the top soU taken out, with a little sand added, as it is 

 strong ; upon this 5 inches of the rotten cow dung, and 

 1-! inches of the turf and sandy loam : then my bulbs 

 smothered in a little clean river sand, mixed with bruised 

 charcoal, completing with 4 inches more of the turf and 

 sandy loam, of course thoroughly incorporated. 



The following, which is my own mode of culture, I have 

 invariably found successful : — Bed ;iii inclies in depth ; 

 bottom dry, of course. Turn back Id inches of the top 

 soil taken out, put in 4 inches of old cow dung : then weU- 

 mixed tm-f, sand, and loam, with the addition of a little 

 old leaf mould, if certain of its containing neither fungus 

 nor anything to create it, to the depth of Iv; inches. I then 

 plant my bulbs smothered in a little clean river sand, or 

 the drifted sand from the coast, which I prefer, mixed with 

 crushed charcoal, and a covering of 4 inches of turf and 

 loam. Protect as above. I do not object to silver sand, 

 but it is in some cases more expensive, and I consider the 

 other quite as advantageous. 



I am not an advocate for growing Glatlioli in beds un- 

 less the blooms are requu-ed for exhibition : when this is 

 the case, the bulbs should be planted h or !) inches apart 

 each way, leaving a groove between the rows for the pur- 

 pose of applying liquid manure, if necessary, as I strongly 

 object to any kind of manure coming in close contact with 

 the bulbs. It is better, as a safeguard, to water the bed 

 slightly before applying the liquid manure, and also again 

 after doing so. 



If not wanted for exhibition, I prefer grouping five or six 

 bulbs together, or as number and convenience suggest, 

 the soil being prepared in the same manner. In the 

 autumn, when I take up my bulbs, I treat them in the 

 same way as I have done Tulips — simply dry them, and 

 protect tiiera from frost during their time of rest. I throw- 

 out the soil upon a space prepared for it to the depth of the 

 Ko. 1012.— Vol. XXXIX, Old Sekhs. 



