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JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Mar 21» 1868. 



and about 85^ The spawn shoald be inserted just beneath thft Borface, 

 in pieces the Bize of walnuts, or a little Inrs^er, an(l 9 inches apart. When 

 the heat is stationary, not rising, cover with IJ inch of rather stiff soil, 

 bfcat firmly, and leave with a sniooth surface. Cover with a little hay or 

 litter to keep the soil uniform in heat and moisture. A Bhadyplace, a 

 shady shed, a cellar, &c., will be better than a bouse in sninmer. In 

 winter and epring the best heat is 60'^ to 80^ in the bed, and 55- to 60- in 

 the house, and from the time of spawning you may expect to gather in 

 six or eight weeks. 



Grapes Spotted [L.M. C).— The berries aro severely attacked by the 

 apot— an ulcer so called by gardeners. Three out of every four of the 

 berries should have been out away as soon as the size of No. 4 shot. The 

 roots are unable to supply sap to them in sutEcieut quantity. Remove 

 every berry as soon as the spot appears in it, and thin the berries of all 

 the bunches severely. If the roots aro outside the vinery, cover the 

 surface with fermenting dung. 



GnAPES Remainino on the Vine fJJcaffcr).— The hanging of late 

 Grapes, say until March, does nothing to prevent the wood ripening, and 

 80 far as we can judge, after many years' practice, does nothing to ener- 

 vate the Vine. The Grapes lianging on the Viue receive enough of juice 

 to keep them plump from the slow action of the sap of the Vine ; but if 

 kept until the spring flow begins to rise, the berries of the bunches would 

 <;rack and decay. In moderately late Vines the Grapes are cut before 

 there is a chance of bleeding; but in very lato Vines, where bleediog 

 would be likely to follow from cutting late, the Grapes mav hang before 

 the sap rises vigorously ; but before then the Vines should be disbudded, 

 say by February, leaving only the buds wanted, but in that case the Vines 

 mast not be cut until they are in full leaf, We havo doue this frequently, 

 and vrith no bnd result, and with no bleeding. Of course it would be as 

 well fortheVints if the Grapes were cut when ripe, but the above will show 

 that the Grapes may hang long and yet the Vines not suffer. In unforced 

 houses there will ho no danger of bleeding if the Vines be cut towards 

 the end of February. The Vines will move little if the temperature is 

 oot higher tliau from 40 to 45 . 



Petjning (/(/cm).— The whole question of pruning and curtailing growth 

 lies in a nutshell. Where there is abundant room we mav with every 

 propriety allow more free growth; but when we wish as much fruit as 

 possible in little space on a tree, then we concentr.ate the fruitful energies 

 of the plant so as to produce fruit buds instead of mere growth. We i 

 have never met with the proofs that the fruit spur of an Apple or Pear , 

 tree is formed in one season, blooms the second, and fruits the third. In 

 many cases by pinching shoots we have clothed the lower end of this 

 season's growth with buds that bloomed and fruited in the following 

 season, when shoots not operated on had nothing from point to base but 

 wood buds. What are fruit buds, rarelv burst as wood buds only, if the 

 fruit bud was matured. This is often oulv imagined to bo the case, when 

 the fruit bud has perished, and the wood buds near it have thus obtained 

 more vigour than tliey otherwise would. Except in such cases, fruit 

 buds will develope into blossom, and it is equally rare, that " ordinary 

 leaflet Imds apparently open in bloom." Of course, seasons, &c., do 

 much, but skill can also do something, and hence practicril experience is 

 better than mere theory, thnngh both are good if kept in their own place. 

 It is not only in stone fruit, but in almost every other kind of hardv fruit, 

 that the same fruit bud does produce fruit only once, but others are pro- 

 duced near it, and the unobservant come to the conclusion that the same 

 bad continues to produce. Singular exceptions often happen, but these do 

 not make a rule. We once transplanted a large espalier Apple tree, and 

 though it had plenty of fruit buds, it did not open a fruit bud, or even a 

 wood bud, for not a single leaf did it present the following summer. 

 Nevertheless, we found there was enough of movement of sap to keep 

 the tree alive, as the bark kept fresh and green when cut. The tree was 

 transplanted about Christmas, and it took a whole twelvemonth's rest, 

 not producing a single leaf, but it broke at the usual time the following 

 year, expanding both fruit buds and wood buds, and produced more than 

 half a bushel of Apples. Wo should not expect such a result in general 

 circumstances. We do not exactly see what you are niming at in the 

 somewhat singular questions you propose as to vegetable development, 

 and we fear we can give little esi^lanation of the phenomena without 

 going deep into phytology. 



FunnGATioN (D. H.).— The " Tobacco grains " used were those ad- 

 vertised by Mr. Pooley, Susses Wharf, Wapping, London. We cannot 

 say how they are prepared. 



Gbass-edgikg Cutter {J. w.).~Any of the implement makers who 

 advertise in our columns could supply you. Write to them for particulars. 

 Flowering Bougainvillea glabra (T. AT.).— We do not think the 

 plant will flower in June. Being largo it may do so if you have secured 

 a good growth, and now expose it fully to light and keep it dry for a fort- 

 night ; but if it is now growing freely we hardly expect you will see it 

 flower before August, if then. Secure a good growth, expose that growth 

 to the full sun. give abundance of air, preserve a dry atmosphere, and 

 give no water at the root so long as the leaves do not "flag. Bottom heat 

 is not neceBsary. The temperature may safely be 55- at night, and 70- 

 by day without sun, and from 80'- to 85'-^ with sun and abundance of air. 



Stephanotis floribunda (J. 23.).— Stephanotis floribunda would not 

 succeed trained over wire basketwork in a sitting-room. It is a stove 

 plant. We would employ Ipomrea heder»folio, which is not so common 

 as it deserves to be. 



Select Variegated Ivies (Idem).-~It is hard to tell which are the best 

 two variegated Ivies, as taste difiers considerably. Hedera helix margi- 

 nata argentca is a fine silver-margined sort, and Hedera hehx aurea 

 maculata, a golden one. Two others equally good are H. helix alba 

 lutescens, nnd H. helix minor lutea. We prefer the small-leaved sorts, 

 two of them are Cullisi and palmata aurea. 



Striking Rose Cuttings lIdem).~The proper time to make Rose 

 cuttings is directly after the flowering is past. The wood is then ripe, 

 and the cuttings root freely and safely if put in before the shoots have 

 commenced to grow. 



Treatment of Rhododendrons after Flowering (Agnes),— The 

 flower trusses as they fade should all be broken off" between the finger 

 and thumb. In this way the plants will not be weakened by the pro- 

 duction of seed, and wiirbloom better in the following year. Give the 

 plants thorough waterings in dry weather, and mulch the surface of the 

 beds with the mowings of the lawn to the depth of 2 or 3 iuches. All 

 this should be attended to at once. 



Hardiness op IllIgicm BEUoipsuar (F. G.).— It is not hardy except 



in a warm situation in the south of England. A wall with a southern , 

 aspect and protection in severe weather would probably suit it. 



Striking Banksia andGrkvillea Cuttings (/Jrin).— Cuttings of these 

 will succeed without bottom heat if covered with a heil-glass and kept 

 close and shaded, and in a house where there is a temperature of 70". 



Duration of Clianthus Dampieei (It/rm).— This Clianthus is the . 

 same with you as with us— viz., a biennial. It is generally accepted aa a., 

 perennial, but it does not succeed with us from cuttings, nor thrive well 

 after flowering once. , 



Tdlip Tree Bleeding (A. F.).— As the bark has the appearance of' 

 being burnt, we should think the tree had received a blow, or that the 

 hark has been otherM-ise damaged, hence the bleeding. If the scar were 

 caused by canker there would not he any oozing out of the sap. We do 

 not think it will destroy the tree, but we would at once cut out the 

 damaged portion of tho bark quite into the quick, apply Thomson's 

 styptic to the whole of the wound, and continue tbo apphcation until the 

 bleeding stopped, then cover the wound with grafting wax made of Bur- 

 gundy pitch, 1 lb. ; common jutoh, J lb. ; beeswax, a ozs. ; and mutton 

 suet, k oz., melted and put on with a brush while warm. It shoald be ' 

 made to cover the edges of the bark, and should be repeated at intervals • 

 eo as to btop any cracks. 



Watering Strawberries with Liquid Manure {K. F. A.). — It is of- 

 great benefit, and may be given onco or twice a-week after the bloseom-" 

 ing is over until the crop is gathered, more especially if the weather be'" 

 dry. 



RiviNA L.'Evifl {F. D.).— This is a dwarf-growing shrub of no greftt 

 merit as a flowering plant, but attractive by its orange berries. It is not 

 so good as li. humilis ; the latter has white flowers, the former pale pink 

 flowers. It is of very easy culture, requiring a compost of light turfy 

 loam two-thirds, and one-third leaf mould, with a free admixture of 

 sharp sand. It succeeds in a cool stove, liaving a light and airy situation. 

 It is not worth a place in a small collection unless grown for a particular 

 purpose, or for its berries, which are pretty on a well-grown plant. It is . 

 readily increased by seeds in a hotbed. i 



Removing Fruit Trees in September {H. O.).— Yon may safely 

 remove all the trees and bushes you name at the end of September, 

 taking fare in removing to preserve as much of the roots as possible, and 

 not shaking ofi" more of the soil than that which falls away readily. Any 

 adhering should be retained, and the roots ought to be protected aa much 

 as possible from sun and air. Plant again without delay, and give a good 

 watering. 



Propagating Whitethorn {Idem).—li is raised from seed. The haws 

 should be gathered and put into a pit tho same as Potatoes, only in a 

 thinner layer, and covered vrith soil. Thoy remain thus a year and 

 are then sown in beds, November being a good time. The seeds germi- 

 nate in spring. Thorns do not come well from cuttings. The seed does 

 not vegetate until the second year. 



Pear-tree Blossoms not Setting {Idem). — Tho flowers may have 

 been destroyed by frost. If not, we think top-dressing with manure or 

 rich compost, and giving thorough supplies of liquid manure m dry 

 »veather would assist setting. 



Sprouting Broccoli {A Subucriher).— The Purple Dwarf and Tall 

 Sprouting Broccoli aupijhed by the firm you name are the sorts recom- 

 mended in our number of April 23rd. 



Pansy {Viola).— The flower you encloSed was very shrivelled, but not 

 so much so as to prevent our discerning the colours. They are not 

 unusual, and run too much into each other. 



Mushrooms too Thick ( ). — We have several times been obliged 



to use less strong manure, as the Mushrooms became too thick to be 

 easily cooked. We presume that is what you mean by having the Mush- 

 rooms nearly all pith. If too thick to fry cut them in slices and they will 

 answer very well, but will not look so well as thinner Mushrooms with 

 plenty of pink Laminje or gills beneath. Use more Utter vrith your drop- 

 ! pings and manure, and the Mushrooms will be thinner. We see no par- 

 ticnlar spot on the Cucumber leaf, except scorched spots made by the 

 sun striking on the leaf when still damp. You may have the disease called 

 " spot," but we did not perceive it. Give air early, and leave it on all 

 night at present. 



Flower Garden Planting (R. G. H.).— The finest bed of Coleua we 

 ever saw was at Woburn, and it was edged with Cineraria maritima. We 

 saw the same bed edged with Mrs. Pollock Pelargonium, fine, but not 

 equal to the farmer, for the Cineraria made such a chaste finish. Your 

 Cloth of Gold Pelargonium, and Lobelia banded between it and the 

 Cerastium outside, would do well ; but so far as we can judge, nothing 

 equals tho Cineraria, or the white-leaved Ceutaurea next the Coleus; 

 but, of course, it is well to try different plants. 



B.\RBE DE Capucin (Old Subscriber). — This, the blanched leaves of 

 Chicory, may be produced in many different ways, all that is requisite 

 being to keep the roots in a dark place with a temperature of from 50 'to 

 60 . Seed may be sown from April to Jnly, and the culture may be the 

 same as for Endive. The French, according to Thompson's" Gardener's 

 Assistant," adopt the following modes of treatment.—" The seed is sown 

 thinly iu April or May. In November or December, one or_ several beds 

 of light sandy soil, or well-decomposed dung, about 2 feet in width, and 

 y inches thick, are formed iu a cellar. On these is placed a row of Chicory 

 roots laid on their side, with the crowns outwards ; next comes another 

 layer of earth of tho same thickness as before ; then another row of roots, 

 arid so on. The mild and equable temperature of the cellar, and the 

 waut of light, soon occasion the production of blanched leaves, which 

 are cut as soon as they have attained a sufficient size. Water must be 

 given as required, if the soil used is too dry. Near Paris, a more ex- 

 peditious method is pursued ; beds of hot dung are mado up, and the 

 roots of chicory, tied up in bundles, are placed in an upright position 

 upon the beds, and watered from time to time, so as to keep them moist. 

 Another method of blanching without taking up the roots, consists in 

 sowing in drills from 6 to 8 inches asunder, and covering the Chicory in 

 February with 4 or 5 inches thick of earth, or with double that thickness 

 of loaves. In three weeks or a month afterwards, according to the sea- 

 son, it pushes, and as soon as it appears above the additional soil or leaves, 

 it is cut over by the original level of the ground. In this way the leaves 

 are very white and tender. Another mode of blanching consista in 



