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JOUBNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ June 11, 1868. 



Rose Plo\verihg Once in Two or Three Years (J. Allen).— We do 

 not know the Rose that blooms only once in two or three years. Some 

 strong-growing Roses will not bloom if prnned closely ; but if several long 

 shoots are lefc and nre well ripened, small flowering shoots will come 

 Irem every bud on theso long sboots in the following year. This may be 

 the case with your Rose. Sow the Walcheren Broccoli now. 



CoccMBER Plants in' Boxes (Lnncnshire). — At this season we shonld 

 have liked boxes larger than 14 inches by 10 by for Cucumber and 

 Melon plants, but they will do, only they will require well watering. As 

 soon as established, use weak manure water and frequent mulchings 

 with sweet rotten dung. We have had sach boxes topped up several inches 

 above the rim with mulching. 



CucuaiBER Leaves Flagging (Whit Mondatj). — Less heat, more air, 

 and less moisture will benefit the Cucumbers, and render them less liable 

 to injury from the sun. We do not like the brushwood and long dung 

 over the pipes for bottom heat. Either the roots go through it and are 

 acorched, or the heat will not rise freely. 



Cacti not Flowering (7J^m).— Expose the Cacti under glass as much 

 as possible. In August set them out in front of a fence fftcing south, and 

 give no water excei)t what is wanted to keep them from shrivelling. 



Cutting out an Old Vine RoD(7(ft';H).— If you do not cnre for the fruit 

 on the old stem of the Vine you may cut it away now, to strengthen and 

 aflford space to the young shoot which yon intend to take its place, more 

 especiaUy as that already reaches the top of the house. 



Medinllla magnh'ica {Idcm).—It is a native of the Philippine 

 Islands. 



Pelargonium Leaves Diseased {11. H. 3*.).— We think the leaves much 

 withered have been scalded by condensed vapour about them when the 

 son shone on them. We recommend r drier atmosphere and plenty of 

 air, so that the foliage may be kept drj-. Some of the holes resemble 

 those made by spot, and the above is the best cure and preventive. 

 Others look as if they had been nibbled liy weevils; and these insects 

 must be looked for at night, or tempted with something sweet, as sugar 

 aad arsenic. 



STRA^VBERRY PLANTS BARREN (Dr. D(.ron).^As this is the second 

 season such numbers of your British Queen Strawberry have proved 

 barren, we would remove the plants and save runners from those that are 

 fruitful. We saw ft fine bed of British Qaeen last September twelve- 

 month. The plants were then heavily mulched with rich manure, and 

 were receiving strong manure-waterings. Comparative dr>'ne?s would 

 have been better. The plants grew very fast, but they yielded scarcely 

 any fruit last season. Left alone, about hnlf are shelving bloom this 

 season. If the barrenness is from overfeeding last year you may try 

 again ; but if not, we would remove the barren plants. 



Destroying Scale on Peach Trees (5itfcscn7)er).— Syringe the trees 

 with soft-soap water, one ounce to the gallon, using it at 90- or 100*^, and 

 nest winter apply it to the trees as hot as possible. The ant=i like the 

 scale and other insects, using them as we do a milch cow. They do no 

 harm to the tree, but woe betide your frnit when it ripens. See late 

 numbers for modes of trapping and destroying ants. 



Peaches Mildewed {C. P.).— Your Peaches are mildewed. Apply 

 flowers of solphui", and give plenty of air. 



Training Red Currant Trees (E. if. J5. .^.).— Red Currant trees will 

 he much benefited by being pinched back now, just as you propose for 

 dwarf standard fruit trees. Perhaps the best way of growing them and 

 Gooseberries is espaUer fashion to a strained wire trellis. A quantity of 

 fine fruit may thus be obtained, and the ground round or between the 

 trees may Be cropped. 



Clijieers for an Eastern Aspect {E S.}.— Any of the hardy Cle- 

 matises, Honeysuckles, and climbing Roses will suit you. 



CLOrEERS AND PLANTS FOR CONSERVATORY {A. H. F.). — A feW gnod 



climbers for a conservatory are Clematis Fortunei, double white; 

 C. lanuginosa, lavender; Sollya linearis, blue; Kennedya inophylla flori- 

 bunda, blue; Lapageria rosea, rose ; Passiflora raceniosa rubra, reddish ; 

 Rhychospermum jasminoides, white; Tropa^olum Triomphe de Gand, 

 orange ; and T. tricolorum, orange and yellow. Of plants you may-have 

 Camellia Fimbriata, white ; Leeana superba, crimson ; Storyi, rosy pink; 

 Valtevareilo, rose; and Queen of Beauties, blush, veined with pink; 

 Azaleas Chelsoni, orange scnrlet ; Gledstanesii formosa, white, sti-iped 

 and blotched with scarlet: Etoilo de Gand, shaded salmon; Queen Vic- 

 toria, white, striped and spotted with purple ; Criterion, salmon pink 

 with white edge, and spotted v.ith lake ; and Mars, orange scarlet. Of 

 other plants the follo\ving vould be suitable :— Epacrises Lady Panmure, 

 The Bride, and Hyacinthiflorn ; Acacia longiflora magnifica, A. oleifolia 

 elegans, and A. Drnmmondi, all yellow ; Chorozema cordatum splendens, 

 brownish orange; Con-ea Brilliant, scarlet; CycJarocn pcrsicum ; Erios- 

 temon intermedium ; Drai?ophy]lum gracile, white ; Epiphyllum Russelli- 

 anum. salmon ; ImantophylUim miniatum, orange and yellow ; Indigofera 

 decora, bluish pui-ple ; Kalosanthes coccinea superba, rosy red: Mono- 

 chietum ensiferum, rosy purple; Pimelea Hendcvsoni, pink; Polygala 

 Dalmaisiana, purple; Rhododendron iasmiuiflorum, white; Statice 

 br33sica?folia, lavender; and Vallota purpurea, scarlet. We hope we 

 liave not named too many, but you may reduce the number, and add to 

 them by plants from seed, which mav now be sown, as Cinerarias, Cal- 

 ceolarias, Fuchsias, Petunias. Primulas, and Pelargoniums. These will 

 flower finely in the spring and summer of next year, and you may add 

 to them by sowing next spring such annuals as Balsam, Cockscomb, 

 Globe Amaranth, Celosia pyramidalis, and other tender and half-hardy 

 annuals. 



Laurel Cuttings (I:. .4. S.)-— Laurel cuttings should be put in at the 

 end of September, and not later than the middle of October. The 

 cuttings should have an inch or two of the old wood in addition to the 

 growth of the current year, and be inserted two-thirds of their length in 

 the soil, which should be made firm about them. Scarcely a cutting 

 tails. 



Cutting-back Broom (/(fern).— Broom may be cut back as soon as the 

 flowering is over, but leave some portion of the young wood to furnish 

 new shoots, for if cnt-in to bare stumps old plants sometimes die. The 

 above remarks apply equally to double-blossomed Furze. Old plants are 

 best replaced by young plants. 



Ro3B CoTTaNoa (Jdem).— Put in ^oap cuttings in July, just when the 

 shoots have slied their flowers ; place them in a frame, and keep them 



close and shaded imtil rooted. It is a Buccesstul mode of propagation. 

 You will find an answer to your other question in " Our Letter Bos." 



Plants for Spring Blooming (3f. E. M.).—\t you now procure good 

 plants of the Cliveden Pansies you may by making every available portion 

 into a cutting, and continuing propagation up to August, secure enough 

 plants for two small beds. We should plant them in the beds as early in 

 October as the removal of the bedding plants will allow, but planting 

 may be deferred until March; then remove the plants with a good ball to 

 each. The seed of Silene pendula should be sown in the end of Septem- 

 ber, and the seedlings pricked-ofT in a warm situation when large enough 

 to handle, and planted out in spring; or they maybe planted out in 

 autumn on the removal of the bedding plants. The seed of Myosotis 

 sylvatica should be sown now in light sandy soil, the plants being 

 prieked-ofl* when large enough to handle, and removed to the beds in 

 autumn or spring with a ball of earth to each. 



Removing Large Evergreen! Trees (T. N.). — We have Httle hope of 

 your removing a Cedar of Lebanon 30 feet high and 3 feet in circum- 

 ference at 1 foot from the ground. The tree may probably be moved at 

 great expense and with great difficulty by hand power, and though it 

 would be more easily moved by machinery, we are very doubtful of 

 its ever thriving afterwards; indeed, we would much prefer planting a 

 young tree, which we know from long experience would after some years 

 make a handsomer tree than one removed. We have never known a 

 Cedar of the size and kind you name do any good after removal ; but we 

 have seen many instances of supposed successful removal, in which after 

 a few years the trees became unsightly objects. The removal of large 

 deciduous trees can be efl'ected with greater safety and prospect of growth 

 afterwards than that of such trees as the Cedar of Lebanon, which 

 make roots very distant from the stem. The removal of large evergreen 

 trees is best effected in summer as soon as the growth has become firm ; 

 then is the best time to move all sorts of evergreen trees and shrubs, 

 both young and old, and the transplanting of deciduous trees is best 

 performed when the leaves are falling. The moving of all trees and 

 shrubs is facilitated by taking out a trench round them in the autumn or 

 spiing preceding that in which they are transplanted. 



Removing Shrubs {J. B.).— The best time to remove the Thorn would 

 be as early in November as the leaves assume their autumn tints. Tho 

 Cypress and Arbor Vit.Tes would be best removed as soon after the middle 

 of September as the weather is cloudy and showery. In removing them 

 care should be taken to preserve to each a good ball of earth, and to re- 

 tain as many roots as practicable. Digging a trench round them should 

 have been done before growth took place, and fully twelve months pre- 

 vious to the contemplated lifting. In case your shrubs make but little 

 growth this summer their removal had better be deferred until next 

 April, except in the case of the Thorn, which should be removed in 

 November. 



Laburnum with Various- coloured Flowers (TT. Boyd). — It is Cy- 

 tisus Adami, and was originally produced upwards of forty years ago in 

 budding Cytisus puTpureus on the common Laburnum. In this process 

 it is supposed that a cell of the one species became divided and united to 

 a cell of the other, and the result has been a plant producing not only 

 flowers of each species separately, but others partaking of the characters 

 of both. There are other instances in the vegetable kingdom in which 

 a similar union of cells is believed to have taken place, but Cytisus 

 Adami ia the best known and best established. The subject has been 

 referred to several times in the volumes of this Journal. 

 Painting Flower Pots (C^ny).— See what "G. S." says to-day. 

 Water Weed (C. If.).— The water weed you enclosed is Conferva floc- 

 cosa. but we cannot say how you are to get rid of it, unless perhaps by 

 emptving the pond ; and, as the bottom is concreted, give it a good dress- 

 ing of salt. 



Propagating Clematises (L. 3r.l.— The present time is not the best 

 for the propagation of Clematises, but the operation maybe done now, 

 the shoots being layered when the wood is about half ripe. A small pot 

 should be one-half or three-parts filled with sandy loam, adding a slight 

 admixture of sandy peat and silver sand. The pot should be sunk in th<- 

 ground to the rim, and the shoot to be layered should cjross the pot ata 

 joint, which should have a small slit cut in it with a sharp knife, as in 

 layering Carnations ; but on account of the siwalluess of the shoot of the 

 Clematis tho cut must be of less depth and length— indeed, it will be 

 enough if the shoot be slightly cut immediately under the joint. The 

 shoot may bo laid across the pot and secured at the joint with a peg; 

 then fill to the rim of tho pot with fine soil. The part of the shoot beyond 

 the pot may be tied to a stake placed in the pot. and in dry weather give 

 water to keep the soil moist. The shoot will most likely be well rooted by 

 autumn, when it may be detached from tho old plant. If no shoots are 

 situated near enough to the ground to permit of the layering in a pot 

 sunk in the ground, the pot may be raised and the shoot layered, onlythe 

 pot in this case will require constant daily watering in summer. Cuttings 

 of the half-ripened wood inserted now in pots filled with light sandy loam 

 and peat, and placed in a cold frame or pit, and kept close and shaded 

 from bright sun. would in all probability root well. The cuttings should 

 have two good joints, one of which should be inserted in the soil, but 

 some Clematises are only to be propagated by layers. 



Najies of Plants (0. Z.).~-\ and 3, Asplenium bulbifernm; 2, A. flac- 

 cidum ; 4, A. lucidnm; 5, DavalUa sp. ; 6, Gymnogramma tartarea; 

 7, G. ochracea. (r.P.u- Kot possibleto name such young specimens. {A 

 SHftscTi6<T).— Combretum racemosum. [M. H. if.).— Carex pentlula. (Mr, 

 Co66,'(().— Cratajguspyrifolia. (T. pz-oraon).— 1. Cotoneastcrrotundifolia; 

 2, Euonymus europjeus. {F. G. Sftfrren). —Lastrea dilatata. (W. H. M,). 

 — All Cystopteris fragilis. (W. B. .S.t.— The Gueldres Rose, Viburnum 

 opulus, a native of England. {H. E. S.).— We cannot name plants from 

 leaves onlv. (A. £.).— We cannot identify Saxifrages, nor any other 

 plants from their loaves only. (G. A. S.).—2, Pteris flabellata; 3, Cyrto- 

 mium falcatum ; 4, Adiantum diaphanum ; 5, Blechnum occidentale; 

 6. Asplenium bulbiferum ; B, Doodia cordata ; 8, DavaUia nova?-zea- 

 landifp; 10, Onoclea sensitiva ; 11, 12, 18. Cystopteris fragilis; 14, Ne- 

 phrodium exaltatum ; 15, AthyrinmFiUx-foe.mina. (P(p?i».~Melittiame- 

 lissophyllum. ( J. ^1. 2it>i/(i).— Polypodium dryopteris. (J. W. Dick).— 



1, Neottia nidus-avis; 2, Galium cruciatum ; 3, Anthriscus sylvestris ; 

 4, Lychnis dioica. (J. Scott).— ^iixHraaa elatior. (T.B. }V.).—l and y, bad 

 specimens; 3, Habrothamnus fascionlatus. (T. C.>.— 1, Erinus alpinus ; 



2, Veronica cham^drys; 3, Chrysosplenium oppositifoUum, (£. Z>. S.).— 

 Onosma stellulatum. {J. C. O.).— Menyanthes trifoliata. 



