510 



JOURNAL OF SORTICUMURS AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ March 6, 167lt. 



moved from place to place if necessai-y. Later in the season the plants ai-e 

 potted off singly, and treated as described.— J. Bobson. 

 Removing Partixions, &c. (C. r.).— You cannot legally remove them. 



LAnELri.— No charge is made for writing the names of plants by the maker 

 of Vane's labels. 



Seeds Retaining Vitality (A Norwich I<irtonmus). — In Johnson's 

 " Science and Practice of Gaidening " are very full details. You can have the 

 volume from our office by post if you enclose '.in. 4(7. In stamps with yonr 

 address. The following is a brief extract:— " The seed of the Coffee siuub 

 loses all power to grow, unless sown within a few weeks after it has been 

 gathered, whilst that of the Melon improves by being stored for one or two 

 ycEU-s, and Celeiy remains capable of germinating for five times the last-named 

 period. These and some other instances within our knowledge demonstrate 

 that the more starchy and other matters, into which nitrogen does not enter 

 as a constituent, that a seed contains, the longer, usually, will it retain its 

 power to grow ; and two instances are, common Rice and the Kidney Boau. 

 Rice contains 85 per cent, of starch, and will retain its vej^'etative powers for 

 many yeai-s ; whilst Kidney Beans, which contain one-third their weight of 

 animo- vegetable matter and other constituents, of which nitrogen is a com- 

 ponent, will not vegetate healthily a second season. The following list, 

 furnished by the late Mr. Loudon, shows the greatest age at which some of 

 our common garden seeds germinate freely; and this result of exiierience is 

 quite concmTeut mth our knowledge of their chemical constitution:— 0;i'' 

 */^ar.— Peas. Beans, Kidney Beans, CaiTot, Parsnip, Oraches, Herb-patience 

 Rhubarb. Elm, Poplar, and AVillow. Two i/rars.- Radish, Salsafy. Scor- 

 zonera, Pmslane, the Allinms, Cardoon, Rampion, AHsander, Love Apple, 

 Capsicum, Egg Plant. Thirc f/^'o?;*.— Sea-kale, Artichoke, Lettuce, Mai-igold, 

 Rue, Rosemai-y. Four i/f^a?-.-;.- Brassicas, Skii-ret, Spinach, Aspaiagus, Endive, 

 Mustard, Tarragon, Borage. Fire and six y.f(i(s.— Burnet, Sonel, Parsley, 

 Dill, Fennel, Chervil, Hyssop. Ten years. — Beet, Celery, Pompiou, Cucum- 

 ber, Melon." 



Variegated Ivy Culture {W. S.).— The plant should be grown in light 

 rich soil, and if in a pot the latter must be well di-ained. The plant ought 

 to be kept well supphed with water when growing, the soil being kept moist 

 at all times. Part of the shoots may be allowed to grow over the sides of the 

 pot, and others be trained to a stake fixed in the pot. It thrives better 

 planted out against a wall, or in a box. vase, or basket, disposing the shoots 

 over the surface. Sprinkle overhead with water twice a-day in hot diy weather. 

 A parti ally- shaded position is more suitable for Ivies than a hot sunny one. 



Evergreen for Arbour (P. J. D.).— We do not k low of any evergi-cen 

 clinibiug plant except Ivy, and the best kinds for your pm-poso are the Irish 

 (Hedera canai-iensisl, common English (Hedera Helix), Finger-leaved (Hedera 

 digitata} and Rfpgner's (Hedera Rcegneriana). Ivy is unquestionably the 

 finest of all evergi-een hardy climbers. The only other plant of an ever- 

 gicen ctai-acter we can advise is Cotoneaster microphylla. It has white 

 flowers in May, followed by bright red hemes, which are very ornamental in 

 winter. We should prefer the Ivy. The Ivies should be planted 3 feet apart, 

 and the Cotoneaster at the same distance, digging the groimd well, and 

 mixing with it some rich compost, or well-decayed manure and leaf soil. Add 

 some sand if the soil is strong. Plant now or during Maixh. 



Red Climbing Roses (/(km).— These are climbing Roses. Ayrshire- 

 Queen, purplish crimson; Boursault — Amadis, pm-plish crimson; Gracilis, 

 rosy red ; Hybrid Climbing— Queen of Prairies, rosy red ; Mult itlora— Rubra, 

 red : Russelliana, cnmson ; Sempervii-ens- Adelaide d'Orleaus. pinkish rose, 

 and Reine des Franrais, Uesh-tinged rose. Many of the Hybrid Peipetuals 

 are free-giowing, and are fine for pillars or treUises, but, as a rule, they do not 

 succeed well against wai'm walls. 



Peach-tree Aphis (Hampshire). — The out-door trees which are sub- 

 ject to attacks of aphis we should have thoroughly protected from cold by 

 projecting coping boai'ds. and canvas coverings to bo let down at night and 

 on frosty days, but to be withdiawn whenever the weather is mild. The 

 . coping boards should be put on at once, and the covering ought to be in 

 readiness to put on when the flowers expand. Continue to keep them over 

 the trees dm-ing frost until the end of May. When the aphis appears we 

 would sjTinge the trees on a mild evening with tobacco watoi-. made by pour- 

 ing one gallon of boiling water over 2 ozs. of the strongest tobacco, covering 

 closely, and straining the liquor when cool ; then add 2 ozs. of soft soap to 

 every gallon. \Vlien the soap is quite dissolved apply the liquid to the trees, 

 wetting every part. It may be needful to repeat the application. As your 

 soil is light we should manure liberally with cow dung, syringe well in hot 

 weather, and water copiously in dry weather from the end of May until the 

 fruit was ripening. 



Cyclamen Culture {.Y. 5'.). — We gi-ow om* Cyclamens in a compost of 

 two parts light turfy loam, one part leaf soil, half a part sandy peat, and half 

 a pai't of very old manure, the whole chopped up and made rather Ime, adding 

 a lifth pai*t each of pots broken vciy small and silver sand. Drain the pots 

 well, say to one-fomih their depth, and cover the corms entirely with soil. 

 The plants should be kept in a greenhouse or pit near the glass, and be well, 

 but not excessively supplied with water up to the end of May ; they should 

 then be placed in a cold frame, and have no more water than enough to keep 

 tho leaves fresh. Repot early in August, return to the cold frame, and keep 

 moist, but admit air freely. At the end of September remove them to a 

 house or pit wheie they can be accommodated near* the glass, and have a tem- 

 peratm-e of 45" to 50- at night and in dull days, allowing a rise of 10=^ to 15^ 

 on clear days, whilst admitting air freely. 



Cutting Down Hedges \ [dan).— The best time to cut down a Holly 

 hedge is eai-ly in April. The Quick hedge should be cut down at once. 



Platycerium GRANDE FROM Spores {Ah Old Suh!<crihvr).—U will Ri-ow 

 from seed. The spores should be sown now, or as soon as they ai-e ripe. 

 Theii- ripening is indicated by theii- falling from tho frond when it is touched. 

 Fill a pot or pan to tlu-ee- fourths its depth with crocks, then till it to the i-im 

 with a compost of equal parts sandy fibrous peat and sandstonr in pieces 

 between the sizes of peas and ha?.el nuts, and a quarter of a part of silver 

 sand. Press tirm, and raise it in the centre rather high, coveruig the auriace 

 with a quarter of an inch thick of the above compost sifted, pressing tii-m . 

 and watering well. Let the pot stand a few hours, then press again and 

 water, and whilst wet dust the sm-face with tho Fern spores, brusliing them 

 off the frond with the hand. Cover with a bell-glass just tittmg within the 

 rim of the pot, which should then be set on a wet or moist bottom. The 

 parts round the pot should be sprinkled with water frequently, in order to 

 lesseu tho necessity for repeated waterings. A shaded position should be 

 afforded, and a temperature of 65'^ to 75^ given the plants, which may be 

 placed ia the stove. The surface must be kept regularly moist, and this 

 without watpxing on the surface so as to remove tho spores. Water should, 



thdi-eforc, he only applied tlirough a very fine rose. When tho plants appear 

 air may be given by tilting tho glass, and when they can be handled pot them 

 off singly, and place them in a close moist frame in the stove, or cover them 

 with a hand-glass until estabhshed; then admit air, and place them on 

 blocks of wood, or plant in baskets, inverting them when the plants become 

 established, or^ilant out in rockwork. 



Franciscea Propagation (r'i^m).— Take the points of the growing shoots 

 when their base is rather firm, and cut them over below a joint, removing 

 the leaves from two-thirds the length of the cutting, which may be 3 or 

 4 inches long, and insert them to that depth in equal parts of sandy peat, 

 loam, and leaf soil, with silver sand, surfacing the pot with half an inch of 

 silver snnd. Water gently, press firm, and ha\'ing put in the cuttings round 

 the si '. -J of the pot. cover them with a bell-glass fitting just within th« rim 

 of tht.: 'i.>t. Plunge the pot to the rim in a bottom heat of 75". Keep it 

 close, Moist, and shaded, but examine the cuttings fi-equently, and if they 

 are veiy wet admit a little air by tilting the glass, so as to allow of the 

 moisture passing off. AMjen they are rooted, as they will be in about four 

 or six weeks, admit air freely and harden them off. Pot singly in 3-iuch pots, 

 and place them in the hotbed for a few days, then remove them to the stove, 

 potting ihem as requued. 



Melons in Greenhouse (P. 0.}.— Unless you can convert youi- greenhouso 

 into a stove the prospect of your gi-owing Melons is not great. It is useless to 

 try to gi-ow Melons unless you can command a night temperature of 60° to 65^, 

 70^ to 75" by day without sun, or with a small amount only, and 80- to 85° or 

 90 ~ with sun and an abundance of air. Those temperatures you will command 

 easily enough during June, July, and August, but so far from your house being 

 a gi-eenhouse it would be a stove, and the greenhouse plants would be much 

 injured if subjected to so liigh a temperature. It will be different if you can 

 clear- out the plants. In that case we should sow the seeds in the third week 

 of April in a hotbed, pot the plants singly when their rough leaves were just 

 visible, grow them in the hotbed, stop at the second rough leaf, and when two 

 shoots appeared select the strongest and cut the other away. The plants 

 should be shifted into lai-ger pots as necessary, and before the i-oots are vei-y 

 much matted around the sides. The shoot should bo supported by a small 

 stick, and should not be stopped untilit has grown to the desired extent, which 

 may he -i to 6 feet, more or less as requhed. If tho plant is trained to a stake 

 we should stop it after it had made six leaves, and the side shoots, as they 

 show fruit to one joint beyond it. The pots should not be less than 11 inches, 

 and need not exceed 13 inches; they should be moderately but efficiently 

 drained, and filled with strong rich loam. Pot the plants when they are placed 

 in the house, at the end of Jlay or early in June. Water copiously, maintain- 

 ing a moist atmosphere. The kinds we advise are Golden Gem and Little 

 Heath, the former a whitish gi-een, and tho latter scarlet-fleshed. If you wish 

 to gi'ow Melons amongst plants in a greenhouse you wiU raise the plants in a 

 hotbed, sowing the seed early in April, growing on and removing to the gi-eeu- 

 house at the close of May. The kind we advise for this purpose is the ridge 

 kind, Achapesnorrischer, probably the new Melon Little Heath would also 

 answer. 



Alocasias LOSING LEAVES (TT. J.}.— The Alocasias do in part lose their* 

 leaves. A. metallica does not, only losing its old leaves, but if kept cold and 

 damp they I'Ot off. A. macrorhiza vaiiegata loses them entirely, being dormant 

 in winter. We presume yom- plant is A. mctaUica. In winter the tempera- 

 ture should be 60'' at night, and 65" to 70<^ by day, with a rise of 10- or more 

 from sun heat. In very cold weather 5^ less at night will do no harm. The 

 plant should be potted now in a compost of two poits fibrous but sandy browu 

 peat turaed up roughly, fibrous loam broken up roughly, one part leaf soil, 

 half a poi't of old di-y cow dung, and a quarter part each of charcoal in 

 lumps from the size of a pea to that of a walnut, crocks broken up rather 

 small, and silver sand, the whole well mixed and incoi-poiated. A half part 

 of cocoa-nut fibre refuse may be added advantageously in lieu of sphagnam 

 moss, which some growers employ. Drain well, and pot with the plant well 

 elevated, but just bmying the roots in the compost. A deep pan is better 

 than a pot. Water moderately for a time until the plant is gi-owing freely, 

 and then water copiously, sprinkling overhead twice daily ; maintain a moist 

 atmosphere, and afford slight shade from bright sun. Increase the tempera- 

 ture from now, gradually raising it by May to 65= or 70^^ at night, and 

 75'^ by day, with a rise from sun heat to 85^ or 90", admitting ah moderately. 

 After August the heat will be gi-adually lowered to the winter temperature by 

 October. Keep the plants moderately moist in winter. 



Vines Starting (/(/cm). — The temperature you have given Vines is suit- 

 able, but to have had Grapes in May the temperature should have been some- 

 what more speedily increased. However, as they have broken weakly it is all 

 the better for them. We should now keep the temperature up to between 

 60- and G5- at night, and 70- to 75'^ by day, with a rise of 10" by sun heat, ad- 

 mitting at the same time plenty of air. In very cold weather S*^ less than the 

 night and day temperatures will be better than those mentioned. You will be 

 little behind; talvo advantage of bright mild weather, but proceed cautiously 

 when it is dull and cold. 



Plants for Flowering in August (M. A. B. B. L.).— Vollota pm-piirea, 

 to flower in August, should now be placed in a \Tnei-y or other house whero it 

 will be stai'ted into gi-owth. It should bo continued there until June, when it 

 may bo placed in a greenhouse near the glass. It will flower at the time you 

 wish. Amarylhs marginata conspicua you must keep at rest until the middle 

 of June, then stoit in a gentle hotbed. Lihum auratum pot now if not already 

 done, and place it in a cold pit, keeping only safe from frost ; keep it as cool as 

 possible, exposing it fully after the middle of May, and if likely to bo too for- 

 wai'd retai'd it by placing it under a north wall. Eucharis amazonica pot now, 

 place it in a bottom heat of 70° to 75^, encoiuragc it with a brisk heat and 

 moist atmosphere, and continue this treatment up to the end of May, then 

 withdraw the plant fiom the liotbed placing it in a light, aiiy position, giving 

 water only to keep the loaves fresh, and six weeks before you wish it to bloom 

 place it in bottom heat again and it will probably go to flower. Crassula 

 coccinea you will need to retard as it will flower long before that time, thcrc- 

 foi-e keep it in a cold pit safe from frost up to June, and then place it on the 

 north side of a wall or other fence, i-emoving it to a cold pit some time before 

 you T\"ish it to flower. Considerable judgment is needful to have plants in 

 flower at a given time, as they sometimes need to be forwarded or rotai'ded. 



Ribbon Border {W. G. S.). — Wo think five rows would suit better than 

 nine, and, provided the scailet Geraniums are rather stroug-gi-owing, W6 

 wiiuld. beginning at the back, have scai'let Geranium, Perilla nipped, yellow 

 Calceolaria, blue Lobelia, Cerastium tomentosum. The Perilla may be sowai 

 in March in heat, pricked-off, and hardened-off, Cerastiums do best divided. 



(rEEi'iiNiiousE CHANGED TO A CucuMBER HousE (FftrMdr//). — By tho plan 

 pruposed you will succeed vci-y well, moro especially as you have the flags to 

 place over your pipes. But for that, after enclosing the pipes with the brick 



