380 



JOURNAL OF HORTICOLTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



t May 8. 1373. 



more sparingly than that which is younger. Traininj,- young shoots from the 

 centre of the tree, if it is against a wall, will in a nieasnre restore frnitfulness 

 in places where wanted, but it is not so successful with open stanJarda; 

 nevertheless, much may be done by pruning, still in most cases the greatorit 

 quantity of finjit and that which is best is produced near the extremities, 

 and we see no objection to this iu the case of the kinds of fruit alluded to. 

 Go^d management ought to insure an even crop of Peaches all over the tree, 

 and the same may be said to be the case with MoroUo Cherries, Gooseberriea, 

 and Currants. Much, of course, depends on the health and vigour of the tree, 

 the character of the season, and other features. 



Thick-necked Onions {T. H. TT.).— There are various causea contributing 

 to this deformity; one being spurious seed; another a wet, cold, or late situ- 

 ation ; and auother the insects, only the latter evil results in a sort of bladder- 

 like formation rather than a thick neck. In general, if good seed be obtained 

 and sown sufficiently early on dry ground, and the leasou becomes moderately 

 di-y and fine, Onions of proper size and shape will be formed, either larger or 

 smaller as the character of the giound and their cultivation iu attended to. 

 But if the Bituatiou is damp their growth is prolonged too late iu the neason, 

 and a number of thick-necked ouly half-ripened bulbs will be the result. In 

 such places a good di-essing of chai'coal dust at the time of sowing will be 

 beneficial, in addition to thorout.:h drainace and as much road sand as cau be 

 had, or anything that will tend to make the ground drier and more porous. 



Golden-leaved Fuchsia Tukning Green {Amntt ur).— Islosi likely your 

 plant is turning green in consequence of having been recently potted in a 

 richer material than that in which it was before, whereby a degi-ee of 

 grosBuesB is induced fatal to variegation both in this and in many olher 

 plants. Via are uuablo to maintain the golden colour in our Japan EuonymuB 

 when they are planted out of doors, and it is the same with many other 

 plants. In the case of your Fuchsia, if it is not placed in too large a pot we 

 would not disturb it now, but wait until the pot be filled with roots, and most 

 likely the proper colour wUl be restored as the plant's vigour becomes checked. 

 ^\ater also sparingly, and do not let the plant flag. 



Geranium Shoots Long-jointed, and Sappy (.rfmnYcur).— Perhaps your 

 Geraniums, if of the greenhouse class, have been potted in very rich soil, 

 and, aided by heat and moisture, grow too rank. The most natural remedy 

 to this, or rather the remedy that will come by degieea, is the pots becoming 

 better filled with roots, and the growth being consequently checked. If they 

 have been recently potted do not give them much water, and, of course, avoid 

 manure water. Expose the plants as much as possible to free currents of air, 

 do not let them stand too thickly together, and most likely the evil you com- 

 plain of will cease. Long-jointed shoots are often caused by too much 

 coddling, and, perhaps, an absence of light ; but the season is at baud when 

 there need he no more occasion for this, as the plants will very soon stand out 

 of doors. We need hardly say you must inure these to the open air by degiee?. 



Dectzia gracilis [M.S.).— In our columns to-day we hope we have pub- 

 lished what you require. 



Grafting and Budding on Thorns (F.).— Besides the Medlai- and Quince, 

 the Pear will succeed, but we do not know of any other fruit. 



Plants by Pathway in Conservatory (Id€m).~ln winter we should 

 have bulbs in pots so as to be removed when not in condition, and shrubs as 

 Deutzias, flowering Peaches, Spirieas, Thorns, Lilacs, Weigelas, also Dielytra 

 spectabilis; to be succeeded by Cytisus, Lily of the Valley, Azaleas, Pelar- 

 goninms, Fuchsias, and the hardier kinds of greenhouse plants, not forgetting 

 Camellias, Boses, especially Tea-scented, Mignonette, Violets, Ac. Vie have 

 no idea now of yuur former query, and we cannot he so explicit as we could 

 have wished from your not giving us any present data. Write us again if 

 tfhere be anything respecting which you wish for special information. 



Camellia in Greenhouse under Vines iH. r.. 3/.).— Camellias will 

 succeed under the Vines in your greenhouse, with fire heat in winter to keep 

 out frost. It is well to sprinkle plants overhead mornmg aud evening when 

 making fresh gi-owtli, but not after it is completed, when fiowerins, or in 

 winter. After repotting, it is well to use a rose a few times until the soil 

 become firm. At all other times water should be applied without a rose, winter 

 and summer, directly at the roots, syringing in addition. 



LiLiuM AURATUM { T. W'hetldon).—k long article on its culture by Mr. 

 Eobsou is in No. 594 of this Journal, published August 15th last year. 



Syrian Vine {J. DabelD.—Grow it on its own roots. The following in the 

 description in Dr. Hogg's "Fruit Manual "—•' Bunches immensely large, 

 kroad-shouldered, and conical. Berries large, oval. Skin thick, greenish 

 white, changing to pale yellow when quite ripe. Flesh tiim and crackling, 

 sweet, ami when well ripened of good flavour. Thia is a very good late Grape, 

 and generally produces bunches weighing from 7 lbs. to 10 lbs. ; but, to obtain 

 tlie fruit iu its gieatest excellence, the Vine requires to be grown in a hot- 

 house, and planted in very shallow, dry, sandy soil. Speechly states that he 

 grew a bunch at Welbeck weighing 20 lbs., and measuring "iilj inches long 

 and 19i inches across the shoulders. It is a strong grower aud an abundant 

 bearer." 



Lucerne— Italian Rye-grass (E. R. P.).— April is the best month for 

 sowing them, hut you may sow row. The Lucerne should be sown in drills, 

 for it should be frequently hoed. Tne Bye-grass may be sown broadcast. 



Spring Bedding-plant Seed Sowing (£.w).— The seeds of all the plants 

 you name ought tu be sown from now up to June in rich, light soil in a shel- 

 tered position, and when large enough to handle the plants should be pricked- 

 off in light rich soil about 8 inches apart, and in autumn either be planted 

 whei-e they are to flower or he transplanted to double that distance apart, 

 moving them with balls in spring. 



Epiphyllum Treatment (Wrni).— Bepot them in spring after flowering; 

 or, if they do not flower, in April. Provide good dramage, and a compost of 

 eandy fibrous loam and sandy peat in equal pai-ts, and one-fourth of silver 

 sand, pieces of charcoal, broken pots, and leaf soil or old di7 cow dung. They 

 are best giafted on Pereskia stocks. Grafting is easily performed bv cutting over 

 in a slanting direction the stock and putting on a shoot of the" Epiphyllum, 

 securing it with a thorn of the Pereskia, tying with matting, and covering 

 lightly with moss. It may be dune iu spring before growth, or after the 

 growth is complete. "Water the plants moderately, but when growing aJfori 

 moisture, and in winter give water only to keep them fresh. Afford & lignt 

 airy position, only when growing slight shade is preferable. 



Fungus-like Excrescence (F. H.I.— The singular hard sijrescences on 

 the branches sent are due to insect agency, for on making a section a fine 

 live larva may be seen in each nodule. 



Sowing Asters out of Doors (S. F.).— You may sow the seed of Asters 

 this month in the open ground, choosing a warm sheltered border of light 



rich soil, which should be made we\y fine, or the surface covered with about 

 3 inches deep of loam and leaf soil mixed. Sow the seeds in shallow drills 

 about S inches apart, drawn with the finger. Scatter the seeds evenly half an 

 inch apart, aud cover them about a quarter of an inch deep. It wuuld be 

 well if the bed were protected by a mat, kept from resting on the soil by sticks 

 hooped over the bed, and which may remain on until the seeds are up, and 

 should then be withdrawn iu the day, but replaced at night. If water be 

 needed to keep the soil moist, apply it iu the morning, through a fine-rosed 

 watering-pot. They will come on slowly, but will make sturdy plants, which 

 if planted out in June in rich soil will flower finely in autumn. The covering 

 at night will only be wanted in frosty weather during May. 



Belladonna Lilies not Flowering (Constant Reader). — "U'e advise yoa 

 to keep the pots on a light aiiy shelf in the greenhouse, and constantly oa 

 saucers or pans of sand kept wet. Do not allow the sand to become quite dry 

 even when the plants are dormant in summer. The flowers are produced late 

 iu summer or autumn without the leaves, which come afterwards, and con- 

 tinue to grow throughout the winter, during which time they should be kept 

 moist, a'so in April aud May, tlien reduce the amount of muisture as the 

 leaves turn yellow, aud discontinue watering altogether when gi-owthis com- 

 plete, still keeping moist the sand on which the pots stand, and not watering 

 ai^'ain until they flower and grow. Do not repot until the roots split the pots. 

 Vine Leaf Diseased (-7. T. I.). — We have not in all our experience seen 

 a similar disease on Vines to that on the leaf you liAve forwarded to us. 

 The under side is thickly blotched with a white fungoid growth, which must 

 be highly injurious to the Vines. "We would dust the leaves with flowers of 

 sulphur, and also paint the hot- water pipes with the same mixed in water to 

 the consistency of thin paint. A little suft soap may be dissolved in the water 

 to make the mixture adhere. The pipes must be made tolerably hot to cause 

 the sulphur to take effect. We fancy you do not ventilate your house suffi- 

 ciently. 



Bed DoYENNii Pear on South Wall (Centui-ion). — This does well as a 

 pyramid on the (juince in ihe south of England. We think it would be im- 

 proved by being grown un the wall. 



Zonal Pelargonitm Leaves Diseased (Amateui-). — Wo have seen the 

 disease before. Our first experience with it was on a plant of une of the new 

 double varieties, and on examination it was found that the roots were also 

 affected. Turn your plants out of the pots, and shake all the soil from the 

 roots. Bepot in smaller pots in a compost of turfy loam, leaf luould, and 

 silver sand. The plants will gi'ow out of the disease with careful treatment. 



SU3IMER Treatment of Pear and Apple Trees {F. J.). — We would 

 not pinch hack the shoots of Apple trees before midsummer, unless the young 

 wood was much crowded. Pear trees require to be pinched eai'lier in the 

 season. We notice some wall trees in our uwn garden which will he pinched 

 when we can spare the time. Most of them will not bo gone over until June. 

 They all requiie to be looked over again in the autumn. 



Diseased Grape Vines {J.'.H.). — You are giving too much water. The 

 border being outside could not possibly requii-e any water so early in the 

 season, aud using diluted liquii from the cow-shed would make it moi'e in- 

 jurious. Wonever give manure water until the fruit is set. 



Cherry TitEES Gujimed (J. P., Brintol). — Gumming is caused either by 

 the roots penetrating iuto unsuitable soil, or by an injury to the bark. If it 

 does not arise from injury, you must lift the roots out of the subsoil and 

 replant them in turfy loam, if it is to bo had. The top spit of some old 

 pastm-e is the best. 



Vines not Breaking Regularly (J. HoUand).— You ought to examine 

 the roots of your Vines. If they are unhealthy that will account for not 

 breaking well. If the border is unsuitable it should be renewed. The treat- 

 ment you have jriven them is correct, hut if the rods are very long they ought 

 to be bent down before the house is started. A young rod ought annuafly to 

 be trained-up from the base of one of the Vines to renew the old ones. 



Heating a Fern House {M.S.B.). — A Fern house might he heated by 

 an Arnott's stove without injury to thu Ferns, provided a supply of water 

 were kept on the top, and the path watered daily. 



Muscat Grapes in a Late Vinery (.-iHinNHr). — In general these Grapes 

 do not succeed well in the same house with the Black Hamburgh, but 

 we have known them do very well witli Lady Downe's and Madi-et-field 

 Coui't, Grapes that require more ripening than the Black Hamburgh. We do 

 not like the Bowood Muscat so well as the old Muscat nf Aleiaudria, aud in 

 a Muscat house wo are weediug-out both the Canon Hall and Bowood 

 Muscats, as they set badly ; although the bunches show with stouter necks 

 and more vigour than those of the old Muscat of Alexandiia, they do not 

 finish satisfactorily. Wo are surprised at their doing badly in your earliest 

 house, whereas in most cases they succeed best wlien forced early, as it 

 gives them a longer season. We feai' there is something wrong with your 

 plant in the early house, otherwise it ought to produce more. In general the 

 Muscats show more hunches than otliur kinds of Vine, certainly mox-e than 

 Madresfield Court and Barbarossa. Was the wood well ripeued last year '.' 

 That is an important point. The number of bunches on a '\'ine entirely 

 depends on its strength and the space it occupies. Some Vines have a rafter 

 20 feet long or upwards, and a space more than 3 feet wide, while others have 

 loss than half the above area. The spot on the Black Hamburgh may have 

 been caused by rude handling at thinuiug time, and if so will wear off as the 

 berries swell; but if it ariso from another cause, as imperfection iu setting, 

 or some other defect, which puzzles the most practical men of the day, we 

 can give no opinion. Sudden cold draughts are often blamed for this, aud 

 we are strongly inclined to coincide in this view. 



Poisoned Wheat (C, Northumberland). — It is made by soaking Wheat iu 

 a strong decoction of nux-vomica, or in a solution of arsenic. Its use is now 

 illegal. 



Plumrago capensis Dying Back (J., Devon). — The appearance is cer- 

 tainly uusi^'htly, otherwise it is better not to cut back the Plumbago, or, iu 

 fact, any other plant until its wood becomes ripened or neaily so, and most 

 likely yours has been cut back too soon. We think, however, there is some- 

 thing else the matter, as it dies hack by degi-ees after growing a few inches; 

 3-5rhaps it has had too much water, or has been injured in some other way- 

 ( it it3 tendency to die still further back continue, wo would advise that the 

 pliat be taken up, potted, aud plunged iu t^outlo heat for a time, and that from 

 the place where it has been gi-owiug all the old soil be removed and replaced 

 with fresh, affording sutbcieut drainage before the plant is replanted. We 

 have known a plant of this kiud die from being too much crowded ; and if the 

 soil it is growing in is invaded by the roots of some neighbouring Acacia or 

 other strong-growing plant, the Plumbago may have succumbed through sheer 

 starvation, which wo have known mere than ono plant do. An examinatiou 



