May 15, 1873. ] 



JOUEN^U^ OP HORTICDLTUKE ANU COTi'A'c^E GAl^DENER. 



397 



and pleasing. Indeed, can more pleasing contrasts be found 

 than is seen in white, Christine or pink, yellow (as in Pyre- 

 thrum), and the purple of Purple King Verbena ? Always allow 

 the pink or cerise of the Christine tint and a good white to 

 slightly predominate over their before-named associations. 

 Thus, whether as exhibited in beds or ribbons, the most fas- 

 tidious will approve. 



Finally, with the aid of Amaranthus ealicifolius, Zea varie- 

 gata (Variegated Maize), Cannas (Indian Shot), in variety, 

 and the many kinds of ornamental-foliaged plants — which 

 should be planted in more central positions or with well-selected 

 surroundings, so as to afford a contrast of most pleasing green 

 in multiplicity of graceful forms with the more gaudy flowers 

 around — a tone and a contour will be attained in close copy 

 of Nature's inimitable displays, but with the handiwork of the 

 able culturist stamped in indelible features thereon. — Williaii 

 Earley, Valentines, Essex. 



WHITE CLIPPER PELARGONIUM. 



Persiit me to correct a little clerical error that occurs in 

 your Journal of to-day (Hay 8th), relative to an award of the 

 Floral Committee of the Koyal Horticultural Society to the 

 Pelargonium White Clipper. 



It is therein stated — first, " that White Clipper came from 

 Mr. Must," and subsequently " that it was exhibited by 

 Dr. Denny, for Mr. Must." Neither of these statements is quite 

 correct. On the occasion to which the notice aUudes I entered 

 for the Floral Committee's opinion two Pelargoniums of very 

 considerable merit — viz., Mrs. George Smith and White Clipper; 

 the former had many months previously been kindly presented 

 to me by the raiser, the latter I pm-ehased in the ordinary way 

 of business of Mr. Must, in the first week of March. The mis- 

 conceptions to which I allude doubtless arose from the fact of 

 the award given to White Clipper, being (at my request) placed 

 in the name of the raiser, while the exhibit stood in mine. I 

 adopted this unusual course of procedure from a desire that 

 credit should be given to whom credit was due, considering it 

 to be incompatible with that generosity of spirit which I trust 

 invariably accompanies the love for horticulture, to permit 

 one's name to usurp the place that by right belongs to another. 

 — John Denny, Stoke Newington. 



AMARANTHUS SALICIFOLIUS. 



THE FOUNTAIN PLAXT. 

 Despite the adverse circumstances which may have produced 

 its failure in some locahties, the general testimony seems to 

 be in its favour, and the Amaranthus saUcifolius is a success. 

 It appears to have met with more success in northern latitudes 

 than in southern ones. We notice that the most enthusiastic 

 commendations come from gardens located along the Hudson 

 river, or in Vermont and Massachusetts — uniformly wherever 

 the soU has been sandy. On the grounds of Hon. Horace 

 Fairbanks, near St. Johusbury, Vt., there was raised last year 

 by Alfred Parker, his gardener, a plant which was 7J feet in 

 height, and 10 feet around the branches, with a stem U inches 

 in circumference. (So says the Vermont Farmer.) The seeds 

 were sown in a pot in the greenhouse in March, came up well, 

 and grew slowly for awhile. Mr. Parker then potted them 

 separately, and they soon began to grow with surprising ra- 

 pidity. Some of them were kept under glass all summer, 

 others upon the verandah, and others still in the open ground, 

 and they have done equally well in every place. No one can 

 see these fine plants without being struck with their graceful 

 habit of gi'owth, their long, pendulous, and beautifully waved 

 and crinkled foliage, as well as the striking and finely- varie- 

 gated colours of the whole plant. The stems are a dark red 

 with a fine polish, the leaves at the tips of the main stem 

 and branches form plumes of mixed crimson, yellow, and 

 green, very clear and vivid in colouring always, but varying 

 in shade and tint with the degree of exposure to direct sun- 

 light. The older leaves are mottled red and gi'een, growing 

 darker and somewhat duller with age, but never shabby or un- 

 pleasing in hue. So far is this plant from requiring a cool 

 atmosphere and shelter from the sun, that Mr. Parker's plants 

 did not begin to grow rapidly until warm weather began, and 

 those that have had the most sun have grown the best and 

 exhibited their desirable characteristics the most satisfactorily. 

 Altogether we pronounce the "Fountain Plant" a decided 

 success, and a valuable addition to our list of ornamental 



plants for either in-door or out-door decoration. — (The Horti- 

 culturist.) 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN CIBDEN. 



When Peas and such-like crops have been sown between 

 ridges, let them now be levelled down ; it wiU give a neat and 

 fresh appearance. Thin-out seedling crops where the plants 

 are small, and if it should be necessary to stand in amongst 

 them, let the soil be afterwards looseued-up where it is troddep 

 down. Thin the plants of Beet to a foot apart while they are 

 small, fill-up the vacancies with those plants that are drawn 

 out, they will produce plants equally good with the others. If 

 the first crop has altogether failed, it is not yet too late to sow 

 another. Make another sowing of both early and late sorts of 

 Broccoli, the former to come in in October, the latter late in 

 the spring. Earth-up those Cabbages that were planted early 

 in the spring ; tie-up the leaves of a few of the forwardest of 

 the autumn-planted in order to form hearts for early use. 

 Plant Cajpsicums out on a warm rich border, water them during 

 dry weather throughout the season. Chervil and American 

 Cress, make another sowing of each. Continue to prick out seed- 

 ling plants of Celery. In planting-out a second time before 

 finally transplanting into trenches make a bed of equal parts 

 of rotten dung and loam, about 4 inches thick, on a piece of 

 hard ground, so that at the time of planting the whole of the 

 earth may adhere to the roots after the spade is passed between 

 each of the plants. Particular attention is required to keep the 

 Cucumber plants in a bearing state. Stopping the shoots is the 

 most important part to be attended to ; the plants should be 

 looked over every fine morning about an hour after the frames 

 have been uncovered and the plants have had a little air. Sow 

 a little Endive seed for an early crop. Plant out Dwarf Kidney 

 Beans that were sown in pots or boxes, in rows 2i feet apart on 

 a warm border. Another sowing should also be made. Make a 

 sowing of Leeks to plant out for winter use. Plant out a few 

 Lettuces about once a-week, thin the plants in their early seed- 

 l)ed to a foot apart, and if any were sown on the Asparagus beds 

 they will require the same attention. Woodlice are geuerallj 

 exceedingly troublesome about the Mnshroom beds at this 

 season. The best traps to catch them are boiled Potatoes put 

 into a flower-pot and covered with a small piece of moss, the 

 pot then to be placed on its side, and by examining it every 

 morning and destroying all the live stock by emptying them into 

 some hot water, they may in a short time be considerably 

 lessened in numbers. The weather is now favourable for plant- 

 ing-out some of the autumn-sown Onions, avoid covering any 

 portion of the bulbs. Earth-up the early crops of Potatoes, and 

 those which have just made their appearauce above ground will 

 be greatly benefited by a hoeing between the rows. 



FKUIT G.UiDEN. 



Proceed with disbudding and removing yoimg shoots from 

 Peaches and Apricots. Where the fruit of the former is too 

 thick a number may be cut off, those of the latter will be useful 

 for tarts. In disbudding use a small sharp knife, as pinching 

 the shoots off is apt to cause the wound to gum and canker. 

 Where wood is wanted pinch off the tops of strong shoots, as 

 several good bearing shoots may be thus obtained. Where a 

 shoot will be too strong and only one is wanted, cut back so 

 as to secure a good lateral. If strong shoots appear where 

 they ai'e not wanted, or the tree is over-luxuriant, allow a num- 

 ber of tham to run their full length, takiug off the leaves from 

 the under parts of the shoots as they advance. They will thus 

 form channels for the extra sap, and will not shade unnecessarily 

 the wood you intend for bearing. In removing shoots at this 

 season, thin them gi-adually so as ultimately leave no more than 

 can be exposed to the sun and air. Many wiU now be busy 

 with their snuff and nux-vomica dusters, for banishing if not 

 exterminating the green fly. 



rLOWER GAEDEK. 



See that all Rose trees have due attention to disbudding, 

 stopping, &c. Watch the buds inserted last August, rub off those 

 on the stock in a progressive way, and let all Hoses, whether 

 standards or d varfs, intended fur forcing next winter be well 

 top-dressed with good rotten manure, fairly covering the pots. 

 As Crocuses and other bulbs wiU now be nearly over, patches of 

 biennials which have stood the winter may be placed close 

 beside them ; when the annuals arc decayed, the bulbs, if neces- 

 sary, may be removed at the same time. One of the most im- 

 portant matters in this department at this period is the pre- 

 paration of half-hardy stock for masses. No pains must be 

 spared to have this in good condition for planting out. Rustic 

 baskets and vases may now be filled with soil, which should be 

 of a rather retentive nature and the plants turned out, placing a 

 few branches round them. Flowers of a drooping habit are the 

 best suited for baskets, as Fuchsias and the like, and Calceo- 

 laria viscocissima with Anagallis cicrulea grandiflora depending 

 round the sides of the basket wUl not be unsightly objects. 



