August 22, 1866. ] 



JOURNAL OP IIORTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAItDENEK. 



157 



In potting, Bhiftinj,', hardening, &e., see prev-ious weeks. We 

 shall now say a few words on ymimiiatiiKj bi'iUUiuj plantu, in 

 answer to several remonstrances as to our overlookiuK simple 

 matters of detail. These have been so often given that wu 

 deemed such next to unnecessary. Several friends kiiully say 

 they do not wish to be referred to some far-back article, but 

 to be told how wo arc doing now, and that perhaps, will be 

 best. 



Our propat;atinp has hitherto chiefly been confined to Ver- 

 benas, l.i>lirlias, dwarf Aguratums. and the more tender varie- 

 gated (levimiums, as wo wish cuttings and plants that will 

 stand in Uttlo room all the winter. For most of these wo select 

 four, five, and six-incli jiots. The pots are filled to about a 

 quarter of their height witli drainage. The first crock is placed 

 with its convex .side downwards, so as to prevent worms enter- 

 ing, the other draiua^e is i)liiccd in an open manner over it, 

 the smallest di'aina!;e biin;^' ut the top. Through this the 

 water percolates freely, and escapes, though nothing, unless it 

 be very small and slimy, can gel in. On the top of the drain- 

 age is placed either a slight sprinkling of moss, or of the 

 roughest riddlings of comjiost, and in the first, and generally 

 in both cases, a slight sprinkling of soot is placed over this 

 bottom. The pots are then filled to within an inch of the top 

 with soil that has been passed through a half-inch or three-quar- 

 ter-inch sieve, consisting of four parts loam, one of leaf mould, 

 and one of rough cb-ift-saud, such as may be picked iip by the 

 sides of a highway after a heavy rain, the sand consisting of a 

 mixture of soil and gi'omid flints. If the soil is dry, these 

 matters are pressed down, and then watered, and allowed to 

 stand a day for use. If somewhat damp nothing in the way of 

 watering is required; but the mixture is pressed down so as to 

 be moderately tirni, and some quarter of an inch of fine road- 

 drift or other sand — silver sand is the best — is placed on the 

 top ready for the cuttings to be dibbled in. 



Now, suppose we take cuttings of Verbenas. We have no 

 notion of having a barrowload from the beds brought in to the 

 shed to select cuttings from, to the danger of hm-ting the ap- 

 pearance of the bed, and the as great danger of puzzling the 

 cutting-maker as to whence he shall select his cuttings from 

 the mass of branches. Cuttings cannot be taken without 

 selection, and as a general rule we wish the selection to be 

 made on the growing plants instead of in the shed. For this 

 purpose small shoots, side shoots generally they are called, are 

 selected, and these are slipped off with a sharp knife close to 

 the main stem, and if nut more than 2 or 3 inches in length, 

 we like them all the better. These are more robust and more 

 likely to make stiff stubby plants than mere points of long 

 shoots. These are generally taken off and placed in flower- 

 pots or Uttle baskets, so that there shall be no danger of 

 flagging, it being one of our rules that no cutting at any time 

 should have the chance of flagging if we can prevent its doing 

 so. Let beginners ever bear in mind, that though a cutting 

 may revive after flagging, yet that the time it requires to do so 

 is just so much time lost as to its becoming a plant on its own 

 account. We, of course, except some succulents full of sa]), 

 which are often the better of a little drying, though even in 

 their case they would ofttn strike root sooner when no such 

 drying was resorted to. With Verbenas, Lobelias, Petxmias, 

 &c., it is always best when there is no flagging. Now, here 

 comes a matter of importance. Verbenas seem as yet quite 

 clean this season, aud so we have not done much to insure 

 their cleanliness, but if we have a month of diy weather, 

 thrips, &c., wiU be almost sure to assail them. It is a good 

 plan, therefore, if thrips or fly be suspected, to di'aw all these 

 little cuttings through weak tobacco water, or quassia and soft- 

 soap water, as recommended by Mr. Kivers. The simple way 

 of doing this is not without its importance. The small slipped- 

 off pieces may be washed through the water and laid out on 

 the board to soak aud dry, or the cuttings may be made first by 

 ontting off the lower leaves, cutting straight through at a joint, 

 and shortening the other leaves a little ; and then, holding some 

 dozen or score by the bottom ends, swinge the cuttings through 

 the prepared water, and lay them down before inserting them. 

 The object in either case is the same — to wash all the parts of 

 the cutting in the mixture, except the lovrer end, which is held 

 in the hand. We have long since proved that certain mixtures, 

 asthe above, will kill all insects on a leaf, joint, &c. ; but similar 

 mixtures absorbed by the root, or the cut end of a shoot, be- 

 come prejudicial to the health of that shoot, cutting, or plant. 

 The only care necessary is, that little or none of such Uquid 

 should be absorbed by the cutting. Some things are hardy 

 enough to resist even this, but it is weU to work on the safe '' 



side, as even the filling of these pots involves considerable time 

 and labour. 



The cuttings, being thus prepared, may be inserted, in two 

 rows, roimd or all across the pot, giving them from a half to 

 1 inch each, be fairly watered with a rose, and the water allowed 

 to settle, the sand clinging to tlie base of the cutting, and pre- 

 venting air entering to rob it of its moisture there. The next 

 consideration is the position for the cuttings ; anywhere under 

 glass will do, or even under calico or jjaper, where you can 

 maintain a rather close atmo8i)here, aud prevent, by moisture 

 in that atmosphere, aud shading from bright sun, the tiny 

 little bits being scorched or withered up. Nothing is better 

 than a cold frame or pit, which can be shaded and kept close 

 in sunshine, and a little air given at all other times, when the 

 cuttings will bear it without tlinching. Every bit of shade 

 more than the cutting needs to prevent it flagging, is just so far 

 an inducement for it to elongate itself upwards, and therefore to 

 weaken it, instead of inducing it to throw roots downwards, 

 and thus secure robustness by correlative action between the 

 buds and roots. Sun that scorches and withers, or flags, is 

 either to be kept out, or neutralised by moisture and syringing. 

 Provided the cuttings can be made to liold their heads erect, 

 the loss shade they have from the sun the more quickly wiU 

 tiiey root, and the more healthy will the young cuttings be. 

 The cuttings will give less trouble still if they are placed in the 

 cold pit or frame, some 15 or IH inches from the glass, as at 

 that distance they wiU need but little shade, and that in the 

 hottest part of the day. In one word, place pots of cuttings 

 of Verbenas in such a position now, for all artificial heat will 

 bo injurious to them ; if on rough coal cinders all the better. 

 Keep the lights close for twenty-foui- hoiu-s, which wiU secure a 

 damp atmosjihcre, aud force the cuttings to absorb as much as 

 they perspire. After the second night give about half an inch 

 of air, by raising thus much the top of the sash of the fi-ame ; 

 shut close down about 8 a.m. If the sun is strong and clear, 

 give a dewing from the syringe about ten, as soon as the 

 cuttings show the least sign of flagging ; repeat, if necessary, 

 again ; and if that is not sufficient give a Uttle shade for two 

 or three hours, but no shade at aU if the plants wiU do without 

 it ; and remove the shade as soon as the force of the sim is 

 past. Give air again at night ; shut up during the day, until 

 the roots are formed ; then give more air night and day, by 

 degrees, and expose the plants ultimately to sun and air, to 

 harden them oft' ; and either keep in the pots, or pot off, 

 according to yoiu- system of management. We generally keep 

 om-s as store pots, for cuttings next season. Some pot them off 

 singly ; in the latter case they should be established in the pots 

 before winter. The chief point is to use as little forcing as 

 possible, and to keep them as hardy as possible before winter. 

 For summer planting we prefer spring propagating, but then, 

 by some means, we must have the plants to propagate from. 

 We may say the same of the blue LobeUas, Petunias, &c. ; but 

 if you manage Verbenas, you wiU have no trouble with other 

 bedding plants. To beginners we would say again, Eecollect 

 what has been stated about the shading ; give as little as 

 possible, and, when given, do not let it remain on all the after- 

 noon and evening. We have seen a mat put on for shade, 

 but, ten to one, it remained on to six o'clock, seven, or later, 

 when it was cloudy after 1 p.m., and that made the cuttings 

 weak and di'awu. — E. F. 



COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— Aogust 19. 



Supplies continue verj- hea^T ; and the demand at this season bemg 

 far from brisk, the market would bo completely glutted were it not for 

 the large quantities of fruit and vegetables required by the northern 

 towns. Good dessert Apples chiefly consist of Kerry Pippin, Nonesuch, 

 aud Red A.strachan ; and Pears of Jargonelle, Williams's Bon Chretien, 

 Lammas, and other common sorts. Peaches and Nectarines from open 

 walls are very plentiful but small. 



Apples V. . 4 sieve 



Apricots doz. 



Cherries lb. 



Chestnuts bash. 



Cmi-ants, Fied i sieve 



Black do. 



Fifis doz. 



Filberts lb. 



Cobs do. 



Gooseberries. . ^ sieve 

 Grapes, Hambro.. . lb. 



Muscats lb. 



Lemons 100 



FKUIT, 



d. s. d 

 0to2 

 3 

 6 16 

 



5 

 fi 







1 6 









 



s. a. s. a 



Melons each 2 Oto 5 



MulbeiTies punnet 6 10 



Nectarines doz. 16 6 



Oranges 100 10 20 



Peaches doz. 4 8 " 



Pears (kitchen)., doz. 



dessert doz. 10 2 



Pine Apples lb. 3 6 



Plums A sieve 2 6 4 



Quinces | sieve 



Raspberries lb. 6 



6 i Strawberries lb. 



14 I Wahiuts bush 14 20 



