228 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. [ September 19, 1865. 



gi'Oimd, also for repotting those grown in pots. It is desirable, 

 however, to change those that have been grown in pots for 

 years and forced for those groivn out of doors ; for LUiums 

 become weaker after being grown under glass, especiaUj- if 

 forced. 



The pots being prepared as already described, take the bulbs 

 up carefully, without breaking their fleshy roots, and place 

 the base of the bulb on the compost without pressure, sjiread- 

 ing the roots out carefully in aU directions a» they appear to 

 have grown. The requisite number having been placed in a 

 pot put some compost between each, keeping the crowns erect, 

 and cover to an inch above the crown. This will bring the com- 

 post to within one-third the depth of the pot below the rim. 

 L. lorigiflorum, and all the dwarfer kinds should be placed 

 somewhat higher in the pots, so that the pots may be three- 

 quarters full when the bulbs are just covered with compost. 

 'Whether the pots be large or small, a space equal to one-third 

 for the strong, and of one-fourth for the smaller kinds, should 

 be left, to allow of a top-di-essing of rich compost being given 

 after the shoots h.ive grown sufficiently high, in order to afford 

 a medium for the roots that are emitted from the stem to run 

 through, and so contribute to the support of the stem, flowers, 

 and foliage. 



Having potted the bulbs at the time the leaves fall, or im- 

 mediately aftenvards, place them in a cold pit, plunging the 

 pots to the rim in coal ashes, and giving no water if the soil is 

 moist, but if dry a little may be afforded. The lights may 

 remain off day and night when there is no likelihood of frost or 

 rain, drawing them on only in frosty and wet weather. During 

 frosty weather some dry straw, litter, or leaves, should be placed 

 over the pots within the frame, keeping the lights on con- 

 stantly so long as the frost continues, and until the covering 

 within the frame is thoroughly thawed, when they should be 

 (h'awn off, the protection removed, and not replaced so long as 

 the mild weather continues. The bulbs require to be protected 

 from frost, though a few degrees will not injure them, if only 

 they are not ex]iosed to light and sun until thawed ; protection 

 from cold deluging rains is also necessan-, but all the air and 

 exposure at other times consistent with those conditions should 

 be given. 



Towards spi-iug the shoots will be appearing, a little water 

 may then be given, but not much, and always on a fine day 

 and early. Air will now be requu-ed daily ; then open early 

 and close early, protecting dm-ing frosty nights by a single or 

 double covering of mats, according to the severity of the 

 weather ; and this state of things goes on until the plants grow 

 so as to almost touch the glass, and being kept near it the 

 shoots will become strong, and have the leaves not far apart. 

 It is a main point in the culture of LUiums, to keep them 

 cool, well aired, near the light, and healthfully moist at the 

 root, but not wet. 



It is a common practice to keep the pots plunged in ashes, 

 tan, or leaves, in a cold pit during the winter. This is good 

 so long as the roots are not kept wet during the winter, and 

 frost excluded ; but it very often happens that the shoots have 

 grown thi-ough the G inches of tan or covering material ere the 

 covering is removed, and the roots are weakened, and so much 

 lanlij- stem is produced to begin with. If plunged in such ma- 

 terials the pots should be removed before the top gi-owth takes 

 place, for immediately any plant appears above the sm-face of 

 the soil in the pot, the foliage should be exposed directly to 

 the action of the atmosphere. The potted bulbs should, there- 

 fore, be removed by the beginning of March. 



A third mode of wintering Liliums in pots consists in placing 

 them on the marginal spaces of paths or stages in a cold 

 greenhouse, where presen-ed from drip. This is a very suit- 

 able position, they being kept cool and dry, and the soil, never- 

 theless, a little moist. Beneath the stages, under other ijlants 

 requiring watering, the soil is apt to become sodden, and the 

 roots are weakejied, and some decay through it. 



In whatever piosition the bulbs are kept they will commence 

 growth in the spring, and must be kept near the glass, iiave 

 air daily in mild weather, whether in the greenhouse, frame, 

 or pit, and be watered so as to keep the soil moist, always 

 allowing the surface to show a want of water before any be 

 given, then give enough to show itself at the di'ainage. A moist 

 atmosphere is essential to free growth. When the shoots are 

 from 3 to (> inches in length, top-dress the pots to within half 

 an inch of the rim with the compost used for potting, with the 

 addition of an equal quantity of cowduug a year old mixed with 

 it thoroughly. Emi'loy the compost in a rough state, for an 

 open sm-face admits air to the roots. Whether the plants are 



in the greenhouse, frame, or pit, it is important to keep them 

 near the glass, and if this cannot be done through there not 

 being the conveniences at hand to change the pots as the plants 

 grow, it may be effected to a certain extent by placing the pot 

 on an inverted flower-pot, and afterwards lowering it as the 

 plants increase in growth. 



It is desirable, when there is a sufficiency of any kind to have 

 a succession of bloom, to keep some of the pots in a green- 

 house, and such bulbs under ordinary greenhouse temperature 

 will bloom in the beginning of August. Others may be placed 

 in a cold frame, and merely protected from frost, and sheltered 

 from hea\7 rains, with air at other times. Half of these if 

 placed in a deep pit, and elevated so as to be near the glass at 

 first, but as they grow lowered, so as to be always near it (air 

 being afforded day and night, but the lights kept on except in 

 very mild, close, damp weather), will give the finest specimens, 

 and bloom soon after those grown in tlie gi-eenhouse. Others 

 grown in a cold frame until the middle or end of May, and 

 then placed out-doors in a light, airy, yet sheltered situation, 

 due attention being given as regards watering, and the pots 

 protected bj- being plunged, will fonn fine ornaments for the 

 conservaton' or greenhouse in September. 



As the plants advance in growth water must be given freely, 

 but a very wet state of the soil is not beneficial to Lilies at any 

 stage of their growth. It should, however, be kept moist, and 

 not allowed to become dry upon any consideration. 'When the 

 ttower-buds show weak liquid manure or guano water, made at 

 the rate of 1 oz. of Peruvian guano to a gallon of soft water, 

 may be advantageously applied at every alternate watering until 

 the flowers open. Aftei^wards pure water is better. During 

 the growth of the plants it is vei-y desirable to turn the pots 

 frequently in order that the shoots may indhie equally to all 

 sides, and not in one direction only, as they invariably do when 

 the plant receives the light unequally. If sticks could be dis- 

 pensed with it would be a step in the right direction ; but it 

 being very rarely that this is possible, neat sticks painted 

 green should be placed to each stem, and the shoot tied to it, 

 forming a viniform head with room for each bloom to show 

 itself without hiding its neighbour. The sticks should not be 

 thicker than the stem of the plant, otherwise they will appear 

 out of proportion. 



Liliums are subject to green fly or green aphis when grown 

 under glass, especially in a close warm house, or in badly 

 ventilated structures of any kind. These pests fasten on the 

 growing points of the shoots, make the leaves curl, and soon 

 disfigure a good specimen. Fumigating with tobacco is the 

 only effectual remedy, and the proper time to do so is when the 

 first aphis is seen, the plants being frequently examined for 

 that pui-pose. 



Whilst blooming Liliums should be liberally supplied with 

 water, but when the flowers fall the supply should be gradually 

 diminished, and cut off altogether by the time the leaves fall 

 and the stems turn yeUow. This being the case, the stems are 

 cut off to the surface, and the soil taken out of the pots level 

 with and around the roots, but not so as to injure the latter. 

 The stems are then cut off closelj' above the crowns, and on 

 these undergi'ouud stems will be found some young offsets or 

 bulbs. These may be potted several in a pot or planted out- 

 side, for which directions wiU be given hereafter. The offsets 

 will bloom in about three years if liberally treated. Make sure 

 that the di'ainage is perfect, and if not so it must be put right, 

 and fresh compost placed between the roots without disturbing 

 the ball in which the principal roots are situated, covering 

 them with soil the same as when fresh-potting. 



If the pots are too full of bulbs these may be potted ; but 

 every third year is often enough to do this, the top-dressing in 

 autumn and earihing-up in spring being all that is necessary. 

 Potted every year the main roots are injured more or less. 

 The bulbs should not be potted unless the pots are too full of 

 roots, nor taken out of the soil, much less kept out drj'ing 

 on shelves, except for the purpose of repotting or increase. 

 L. longiflorum may have the soil taken out between the bulbs 

 in autumn, and the small offsets removed, fresh compost being 

 filled in. AU the LUiums which require a cool temperature are 

 best kept from October to March so as to be safe from frost. 

 AU the kinds named above may be had in bloom in the end 

 of June by placing them in a vinei-y in Febi-uary, and in July 

 if placed there in March, when the Vines are set to work, 

 assigning them the lightest and aiiiest position. 



LiUiim riififniteitm and its variety cordifolium require rich 

 soil. They do weU in turfy loam one-half, one-fourth leaf 

 mould, and one-fourth rotted cowdung, or in place of it peat 



