October 17, 1865. ] 



JOURNAL OF HOKTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 



325 



WiNTEHiNu Old Bedding Geraniums (IT. S. TT.).— Wo practise throo 

 pliuisor inetlioils witli ours. Ist. Any kinds ofwhicliwc nro short of Htoc.k 

 wi' take up buforo frost, rcdncc the footw n little to miikc thum po intr» the 

 pots, iiick olfthc ohi, yullow, and a few of the larKi-ht. Icav«-s. and put the 

 phints in pots proportionate to their size. This we do with all kinds of varie- 

 gated Gerauiunis, and never shorten the shoots at all. lieinj^ content with 

 removing any sirn^ft^'linR growth. The plants nro potted in maiden loam, 

 the top bpit ol a pasture without any admixture of iL-at-iuould or other 

 ingredient, unless the soil be strong, when we add sand to make it a 

 sandy loam. Tliey receive a good watering after potting, and during the 

 winter no more water than is suffleiont to prevent tht^ir dicing up. 

 Placed in a dry airy house with no more tire than to keep frost out, they 

 only need the dead leaves to he picked olT. In Marcli each plant gives a 

 number of cuttings, which are made then as thi y usu;illy are in autumn. 

 Tho cuttings being inserted and placed in a mild hi.Uied make plants 

 equal to autumn-struck cuttings ol those Itindsruiploycd for their foliage, 

 and of the tiowt-ring kinds for blooming in August and SLptember. The 

 old plants soon shoot afresh, when they are potted in a compost of turfy 

 loam two-thirds and one-third leaf-soil, giving a pot i)roportionate to 

 their size, the largest being placed in No. 1 pots. These plants are line 

 for eool conservaliiry decoration all the summer, and we employ them for 

 circles in panelled borders, as we find it easier to have a sjTnmetrical 

 circle a ynnl wide from one plant than were three or more employed. 

 They also produee an efl'ect at once by simply plunging the pots. The 

 smallest are excellent for vases and similar puri>oses ; those not growing 

 them in this manner can form no idea of the flue specimens they make. 

 2nd. All those Geraniums ^\■hich we wish to preserve, except those 

 wanted for specimens and all the variegated class, we take up after the 

 first frost and cut down, taking out all the old wood possible, but leaving 

 tho younjj shoots uushortened unless vciy long, when they arc cut-In, 

 These we pot, after shortening the roots, *imtil our stock of pots is run 

 out. We then resort to boxes, and pack the plants closely together in 

 the same soil just moistened. The variegated class are treated in tho 

 same manner with this (Ufforence, that as we begin with them they are 

 always potted, and the shoots are not shortened, all knife work being 

 conflned to removing straggling growths. In this way they are kept, with 

 very little water in winter, in a light airj- house secure from frost. 

 Srd. Those that canuot be accommodated under glass are placed close 

 together in boxes of very sandy and half diy soil, taking off every leaf of 

 any pretensions to the name, and then v.c put them in a dry place just 

 warm enough to be free from frost, and yet so cool as not to excite 

 growth. There they remain until the end of March, when they are placed 

 in a frame, cool greenhouse, or vinery, smd they soon become green and 

 shoot afresh. The plan recommended by Mr. Fish so far back as 1855 is 

 an excellent mode of keeping old plants over the winter. 



Shoots for Cuttings, and Compost for Geraniums, &c. (A. B. C.).— 

 We like the moderately strong shoots — strong certainly, but not vei-y 

 gross, and from 4 to 6 inches in length, and always with the gi-OTsing 

 point attached. In fact it is the growing i)oints or shoots that are 

 available for cuttings. The extremely weak and very gross shoots are 

 not desirable, inasmuch as the former, though they root freely, are a 

 long time before they make strung plants, and the very strong shoots are 

 very liable to damp off, and take up too much room in the cutting-state. 

 For potting Geraniums, and all soft-wooded plants, we use two-thii-ds 

 turfy loam and one-third well reduced leaf-mould, with a free admixture 

 of river sand if the loam does not contain enough sand. Your gardener's 

 using turfy Inam is good, but we do not see the value of the bog soil, for 

 Geraniums naturally do not grow in bogs. Though a little of it is no 

 great evil, yet we think it quite unnecessary. It would be better used for 

 Rhododendrons and other bog plants. Leaves a year old will so far from 

 retarding growth jiromote it more than were they more reduced, but we 

 prefer leaf-soil well reduced for Geraniums, as we do not care so much for 

 a strong coarse growth as for a strong cUse growth likely to give abun- 

 dance of bloom. The leaf-mould would certainly be better if freed of the 

 mast of Beech and the cups of acorns ; and sticks of all kinds should be 

 rigorously excluded, for they cause funguses in the soil. 



Fruit Trees for Bush or Pyramid Form {Young .-i»ta(fi/r).— Apples — 

 Dessert : Melon Apple, Ribston Pippin. Ivitchen : Bedfordshii-e Foundling, 

 Cox's Pomona. Pears — Beurrr Clairgeau, Bemie Bachelier. EeuiTeBiel, 

 Duchesne d'Augouleme. Plums — Kitchen: Victoria, Prince Englubei't or 

 Pond's Seedling. Dessert: Jefferson, Belgian Purple. Chei-ries — Mon- 

 strous Heart, Black Tartarian, Nouvelle Royale. The Apples should be 

 worked on the paradise stock, the Pears on the quince stock. Fruit of 

 equal size may be obtained from either bushes or pyramids. 



Propagating Stephanotis floribuxda {A Snhscriber).— It is propa- 

 gated by cuttings of the half-ripened wood cut off immediately below a 

 joint, short stubby shoots that grow but a few inches long being the best. 

 These, taken off close to the bine or branch from which they spring, will 

 have a kind of heel, which should be made quite smooth. Insert the 

 cuttings singly in small pots to one-half their length, previously remov- 

 ing the leaves for that distance. For soil use verj' sandy peat or one- 

 third j>eat and two-thirds silver sand. Let the base of the cuttings rest 

 on the silver sand. The soilbeingmoist only a httle waterwill be needed 

 to settle it about the cuttings. Place in a bottom heat of 80'^ or 85^ and, 

 if the atmosphere be dry, cover with a bell-glass; if moist, and a little 

 shaded, this is not necessary. Keep the soil just moist, and in about six 

 weeks the cuttings will be well rooted. Gradually harden off or draw 

 from the hotbed, and, when hardened off, shift into larger pots and grow 

 on in the stove. Cutting* are best taken off in the early part of the year 

 if they can be had, as such strike much more freely then than later 

 in the season. 



Shrubs for Pots in Flower-beds {Chadlington). — Andromeda flori- 

 bunda, from its dwarf compact habit, and evergreen foliage, with its 

 flowers of delightful fragrance, is of all plants the finest for the purjiose. 

 Berberis Darwinii, with handsome deep gi'een Holly-like foliage, and 

 golden flowers in early spring, is the second best flowering plant for beds. 

 Then there are Box, both gi-een and variegated; Hollies, green-leaved, and 

 gold and silver variegated ; common Yews as dwarf bushes, pyramids, 

 and standards; the upright Irish, Weei>ing, Dovaston, and the very 

 distinct Taxus adpressa; Laurustinus; Portugal Laurels as dwarf pyra- 

 mids and standards; Common Laurels; Pernettya mucronata ; Aucubas 

 in variety ; and dwarf early-blooming Rhododendrons. Among the 

 Conifers, also, there are numerous subjects of the most graceful habit, 

 and having foliage of different hues, which may be made available for the 

 pojiiose. 1 



Taking up Golden Chain Geranium (^i77ic«).— Take the plant up with- 

 out breaking and disturbing the roots more than can well be avoided, 

 and remove from the roots any soil at all loose, but that closely matted 

 with roots should not be disturbed. Any very long straggling mots may 

 be shortened, the better to enable you to get them into pots suffleiently 

 large to contain them properlv. A six-inch pot will lie large enough for a 

 good-sized plant. It is not n'ecessai-y to take the pbuits up with balls of 

 earth to the roots, but they are better of a little soil adhering to these. 



Pruning Vines (An Ohl SuhHcriher).— Yon may prune the Vines imme- 

 diately after tho leaves fall. You should have stopped the late laterals to 

 one joint from whence they rise, and we would do so at once. They 

 shade the house and prevent tho wood hardening. There is no necessity 

 for keeping the house at 45 on account of the large Lemon tree at one 

 end, unless you wish to ruin the Vines for the sake of it. It will do well 

 if the temperature is not allowed to fall below ;W\ providing it is kept 

 moderately dry at tho root, yet healthfully moist. For forcing in .Tan- 

 nary the Vines should now be at rest, and be pruned next month. Your 

 border nuiy now be covered with a foot of dry litter, higher over tho 

 collar of the Vines, unless the border slope, so as to have the surfaco 

 sloping to the front and the boards upon it. A lortuight before com- 

 mencing to force, the bonier shotild be covered with hot dung, leaves, or 

 other fermenting materials, to stimulate root-action before leaf-develop- 

 ment takes place, and this covering should be renewed to maintain a 

 slight heat until the sun has sufficient power to heat tho border. 



Dicksonia ANTARCTICA CULTURE (Sijuib). — Your plant will lose its 

 old fronds more or less throughout the winter, as it, from your state- 

 ment, is now doing, the lower fronds withering and going off. They 

 ought not. however, to wither but to die off yellow. Your syringing will 

 only tend to aggravate the discoloration of the fronds. Syringing is 

 not necessary at any time if a moist atmosphere is maintained. At this 

 season dryness, rather than moisture, is essential to preserve the fronds 

 in good condition and healthy in appearance. The air suitablefor 

 ordinary greenhouse plants will' suit the Dicksonia. Discontinue syring- 

 ing, though you may resort to it occasionally to free the fronds of dust. 

 Do not water so copiously at this season as when the plant is growing 

 more. From the i)resent appearance of the plant we do not think you 

 have anything to apprehend, and therefore would advise your keeping it 

 in the tub moderately moist. If you could have it planted out iu a pre- 

 pared border of turfy brown peat two-thirds, and yellow loam one-third, 

 with large pieces of sandstone in it, providing good drainage, it would in 

 a year or two quite astonish you. A circular pit of fi feet in diameter is 

 not too large for this plant," and, being edged with rock stones and 

 smaller Ferns and Mosses gronang on and amongst them, it would be a 

 pleasing feature. Six inches of cocoa refuse placed on the siu-face might 

 be covered with Mosses. Hymenophyllums and Trichomanes might 

 also be grown, they being fui-nished with a suitable soil, and sprinkled 

 with water twice daily, or oftenerif needed. The Dicksonia would afford 

 them an agreeable shade without that close stagnant air found under a 

 bell-glass. For so large a specimen the box is very much too small, it 

 should have a larger one, or, better still, be planted out in the centre of a 

 not very nan-ow house, otheriftise the fronds will come in contact with the 

 sides. We have had a plant with a head 15 feet iu diameter on a stem 

 much shorter than yours and less in diameter. 



Hot Water Piping bequired for Greenhouse— Jointing Glazed 

 Tile Pipes iJ. .S'.). — Your proposed greenhouse, 12 feet by 9 feet— a 

 lean-to, '2\ feet in front and lU feet at back, will be satisfactorily heated 

 by flow and return three-inch pipes along the front and both ends, omitting 

 the doorway at one end. For jointing the pipes first run a piece of 

 tarred rope into the opening between tlie pipes pretty tightly, and then 

 another unstranded piece of rope, but slightly twisted and untarred, 

 drawn through some thick red lead paint, and ram this quite tight with 

 a thick-pointed yet thin chisel, finally filling up the joints with Roman 

 cement. 



Building a Cucumber-house, Vinery, &c. [J. S.).— You do not g^ve 

 us sufficient data to enable us to answer your questions satisfactorily. 

 We would say 1st, that this is a very good time for putting up new 

 houses, and if bad weather set in the painting could be deferred until 

 spring. 2ud, If the same boiler is to heat the new houses as well as 

 the old, would it not be well to be guided by the width of the old houses 

 iu forming the new? Your greenhouse seems to be 18 feet, which 

 would be a gi-eat width for a Cucumber-house, but the length might be 

 all the less. A nice Cucumber-house might be span-roofed, 12 or 14 feet 

 wide, 5 feet high at sides, 9 feet in centre, with a bed on each side, and a 

 pathway in the middle. These beds would hold plants in winter, and a 

 spar shelf could be suspended over the pathway. A good lean-to Cucum- 

 ber-house might be made S or more feet wide, 3 feet high in front, and 

 10 or 12 feet high behind, with bed in front, and plants trained within 

 15 inches of the glass. Such a house could have a stage in winter. The 

 same remarks applv to -vineries. If vou tell us the plans you propose we 

 will say which will'answer best. Then, 3rd, as to the expense. If there 

 is no waU against which to place the houses, then a span-roof will cost 

 less at first than a lean-to, just because wood and glass are cheaper than 

 brick and stone. If you wish, however, to keep up a high temperature, 

 the span-roof nill cost more for fuel than a lean-to enclosing the same 

 space. 4th. In either case the cheapness of such houses will depend on 

 ha\ing all the glass and wood fixed, except what is used for ventilators, 

 and using largish squares of glass between the rafter sash-bars, much in 

 the same way as Mr. Rivers employs for his orchard-houses. The size of 

 these rafter sash-bars must depend on the length of the rafters and the 

 width between them. If the width is 20 inchesbetwcen rafter and rafter, 

 and the length 14 feet, then the rafter should be li inch thick and 

 41 inches deep. If onlv 12 or 15 inches between the sash-bars, then 

 oj to 4 inches would do iii depth. If the width between were from 12 to 

 14 inches and the length of rafter 9 feet, then 3 inches in depth would do. 

 And lastlv, if economy is your object, when the plan is decided on it will 

 be the cheaoest mode to have all the wood cut to size and planed by 

 machinerj- ;'but whether it would be best to have a builder do all the 

 work of building, or have it done under your own supervision by village 

 carpenters, will depend on the circumstances of the case and the aptitude 

 of the carjienters for such work. Generally speaking, a man knows his 

 own business best, and much is gained by the division of labour. We do 

 not like to specify builders ; but some of our best do not care much for 

 these fixed roofs, but prefer rafters and sashes in the usual way, and of 

 course they must cost more. The patent metallic houses lately alluded 

 to will be economical in the end, though costing more at first. 



