NoTember 14, 18G5. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



411 



Dksfontania spinoha not BLooMiNa (E. D.).— Your plant will never 

 bloom HO lonK as it ktowh so viKoroiinly ; find why pruno it in iiutmnn? 

 Let it alonf for ono your, and it will bloom in tlio next, if kopt in a. li(<bt, 

 air>'. cool houHO andnuruly protected from frost, liu very cariful to Inivo 

 Iho draiurtK'L' free, and n<tt"to pot the plant bo lonp as it in ^'rowint^ ho 

 viporouHly. Wulor fri-cly wbou gromug, imd at othur times koep the soij 

 JQWt moitit. 



SoLANDu CApaicASTurM IJF.nniEs (Z<Zrni).— Althonph, pcrhapH, not 

 pOHitivoly dcIeti'riouK, wo Kbtmld yet bo incliiifd to regard thorn with 

 suspicion. Dr. Umtn, in his "Vepfotablo Kingdom," page 051, Ktate-s — 

 **The fruit of S. psoudo-eapsicum has boen hupposed to be dolutorioua, 

 bat M. Duual tays they are not so, for a dog whieh swallowed thirty of 

 them, cut in pieces, nuKtaiucd no injury. ' This is a near ally of the 

 1^. cupaicastruin, and whetlier the berries are jtoisonous or not, thoir tasto 

 18 such as not to recommend their use. J!o cautious. 



Celery with 8or,ir> Stkm {Ooddes/t). — You do not say whero and how 

 your Celery has Ihm'U treated, or when tt was sown, whether in February, 

 March, or April. Vou simply state " My Celery ia largo, sound, but solid- 

 rooted half wny up the stem." If it is tho common Celery, and howu 

 early, we ehuuld not he surprised to hear of its beginning to bolt, or run, 

 by this time — that is, if it was sown in Kehruory, particularly after this 

 hot ripening season, and tho more so if there has boon any lack of nutis- 

 turo at the roots. Celery sown in February, and properly treated, 

 ought to be ready for use in August and September, and that sown after 

 the middle or end of March ought to bo ready to succeed the February 

 ■owing. From the March sowing wo prick and plant out finally at several 

 times, making our final planting about the end of August or lirst week in 

 September, and wo never have observed a plant holt, or run to seed, 

 boiore the following year. We have known it in aomo mihl seasons 

 begin to start in tho Februnr)' of the following year, towards the end of 

 that month. The early earthing-up would not of itself cause the Celery to 

 mn to seed, but, of'course, after tho Celery was banked up finally for 

 blanching no more water could bo given to it, and it would be a long 

 time before the rains could penetrate to the roots. We are mucli 

 inclined to tliink from tho words "my Celery is sound, sohd-rooted half 

 way up the stem," that it is tho Celeriac oir Turnip-rooted Celery that 

 has been grown and treated like the common Celei-}'- I' so. we should 

 not be surprised at tho earthing-up early having some effect upon the 

 plants, and causing tho knobs or roots, which ought to be round or 

 nearly so, to become elongated half way np. Celeriac may be treated 

 like common Celery, as far us so^vings are concerned, and nursing up tho 

 young plants for final transplanting; and for this final planting the soil 

 cannot be too rich and good. Plenty of good decomposed manure should 

 be well incorporated with the soil before planting out either. Celeriac is 

 generally planted on the flat surface, or in very shallow drills from 2J to. . 

 8 inches deep, and from \2 to 14 inches from drill to drill. The plants 

 are lifted with care from their nursery -beds, the tap roots shortened, and 

 all side shoots carefully rnl>bed ofT, and the plants are then inserted in 

 tho shallow drills at the Name distance from plant to plant as tho drills 

 are from each other. Water copiously after planting, particularly in 

 dry weather, and pay attention to hoeing, rubbing ofif any side shoots 

 occasionally. The Turnip-like knobs are taken up on tho approach of 

 sharp frosty weather, and stored away in sand, or otherwise, like Carrots, 

 and are used in stews, soups, salads, and in other ways. The leaf-miner, i 

 or Tephritis Onopordiuis, or Cek'r>-fly, has been very numerous this hot 

 Beoson, not that the grubs do much harm to the plants, except to disfigure 

 their appearance for a little time, the Celory being a strong grower and 

 making plenty of leaves. The soft larvre are ver>- easily destroyed by a 

 pinch between the finger and thumb. Hundreds can be destroyed thus 

 in a very little time. 



Composition fob Felt-eoofing (J. M. R.). — We have had several hun- 

 dreds of yards of felt-roofing, and found nothing answer so well as what 

 your carpenter recomnu-nds — viz., coal tar and Norway pitch, a lump of 

 the last eijual to one-fourth of the former being put in the pan, and, 

 when boiling hut, aiipliud to the roof when it is quite dry. Immediately 

 afterwards sprinkle it with shai-p sand, which will prevent its running 

 and take awoy its glossy appearance. Black varnish is also an excellent 

 preparation, superior to paint for out-door wood-work, resisting wet 

 longer and better. Coal tar and powdered chalk we tried, but it did not 

 answer. The main point with a fult-roof is to make it waterproof at the 

 commencement, and to keep it so bv renewing the composition every 

 second year. If wet ever penetrate, tlio felt rots directly, and tho water 

 comes through it as through a strainer. 



Various {A Suhscriher). — No book specifies prices, the other informa- 

 tion is in the "Garden Manual," which for twenty stamps ; "In-door Gar- 

 dening," twenty stamps ; and " Out-door Gardening," twenty stamps ; can 

 be had free by post from our oflace. Turfy peat if decayed, or the bottom 

 of an old wood stack m;^y be substituted for leaf mould. The Sensitive 

 Plant (Mimosa pudica) is an annual. 



Shakespehe's Floweus {Mrs. H'.).— The Editors regret that they must 

 not indulge in notes upon the well-known flowers of Shakespere. They 

 only can find space fur communications elucidating the names now not 

 clearly defined. Can 3/rx. W. decide what flower Izaac Walton meant by 

 " Culverkeys V " It cei-tainly was not the Columbine. 



Omission. — In our notice of Dr. Lindley last week we stated that tho 

 editorship of the " Gardener's Cbrniiicle " had fallen on Dr. M. T. Masters. 

 We have since been informed that Jlr. Moore is associated with him, and 

 that the paper is under tho joint editorbhip of these gentlemen. 



Mango (C. McC). — We have forwarded your note. 



Azalea Leavtis Browned (A Constant Reader). — The leaves sent do 

 not show the slightest trace of mealy bug, and nothing beyond the effects 

 attendant on keeping the plants in a warm badly ventilated structure 

 after their growth has been made. They do not seem infested with any 

 insect. The majority of the leaves, if at all like those sent, will fall, but 

 the bloom-buds are sound and will flower well, though the trusses will be 

 small. 



Lapbtonx and Dalmahoy Potatoes (F. iT.).— Any Potato dealer could 

 supply you with these varieties. As you wish to plant an acre, advertise 

 for as many bushels as you retjuire. 



Tropical Frihtb (7*. i?rt«(crnon). ^The Mangostoon {the Oarcinia man" 

 gOHtana), is a very fine fruit, sonu'thing like an Orange in size, and after 

 passing the hard rind, divided Hnuietliing like an OranK(\ with seeds in 

 the centre, and the pulp of a delicious flavour. Tliis is, however, not tha 

 fruit alluded to at page II40, under the name of the Mango (Mangifera 

 indica), which bears its bunches of small flowers on the points of tho 

 shoots, more resembles a ilattencd Plum with a thick rind, and has & 

 moHt agrt'iMible perfume and a rich pulp wlien ripe. The mode of suc- 

 cessful cultivation, detailed at page .H-K), is moat interesting , and, for 

 success and tho age of the plant, we believe it is quite unique. Wo have 

 no doubt if you follow out "J. H's." svstem you will suecx'od, especially 

 if you place your tub farther from tlie back wall, so as to secure tha 

 Iieni-nt uf the hot-water pipes, and to give you room to pack tan or other 

 material round the tub, or largo pot, in the growing season. Wo should 

 have more faitli of success if the trees, instead of being placed along th« 

 back wall, were trained some 15 inches below the glass over the pathway, 

 pHACii Trees in Pots (Pond-dhn). — There has been a good deal written, 

 lately on Peach trees in pots. From your description wo would bo in- 

 (rlined to believe that you have not stopped them enough in aumnier ; and 

 from being plunged in tho border of the orchard-house, most likely th© 

 extra vitfour and large size of tho trees are to bo attributed to the rootn 

 running in tho border beyond the pots. This vigour of growth, attended 

 moHt likely by unriije wood, is tho chief reason why you have not had 

 ( moro than two or three fruit to a tree. In similar circumstances w» 

 generally manage to allow too many to remain. It would have been 

 better to have raised your trees, and root-pruned them a mouth ago, but 

 better late than never. Take up tho pots carofully now, and prune off 

 most of the roots that have extended beyond tho pots, replacing tho pot 

 again after putting some nice fresh rich soil below it and round it, to en- 

 courage the fresh fibres to rim a little in it, then remove a good deal of 

 the surface soil of tho pot, as much as you can do without injuring tho 

 fibres, and replace with fresh loam, with a fourth of rotten dung or leaves, 

 firming it well, and then give a good watering so that the buds may sus- 

 tain no sudden check from cutting the most of the roots beyond tho pot. 

 During tho winter the soil is to be kopt dryish rather than wet, but not 

 too dry, as when that is the case the buds aro apt to be thrown off by a 

 liberal watering in spring. Fibres will be forming in the top-dressing all 

 tht! winter, and the shoots will come healthy and less vigorous in spring; 

 and if stopped when they have made five loaves, and stopped again when 

 they have made two or three, you will insure nice Htul>by well-ripened 

 wood near home, the trouble with which will generally be sufliciontlj 

 thinning the fruit that will show. 



Fruits for an Orchard-houre Trellis (C. E. K.).— The following 

 will do for the trellis in your orchard-house: — Peaches: 1 Early York, 

 1 Early Victoria, 2 Noblesse, 1 Barrington, 1 Witlburton Admirable; 

 Nectarines: 1 Balgowan, 1 Elruge, 1 Uardwicke Seedling, 1 Yiolette 

 Hative. 



Small Hothouse (M. W.). — If you give ub the size of your house, and I 

 tell us the chief of your wants and wishes, we shall be glad to advise ; at 

 present the matter is too indeterminate. What is the object in tilling the | 

 pit partly with lime ? 



Vinery to be a Greenhouse in Winter (Jardin). — We have re- 

 peatedly stated that for mere greenhouse treatment there is no necessity 

 for turning out the Vines in winter after the fruit is cut, as if the tem- 

 perature of the house is not raised by artificial heat above 45 ', high 

 enough for the generality of greenhouse plants, there will be no danger 

 of starting the Vines before they do so pretty well of their own accord. 

 We know many places where every vinery. Pouch-house, or Fig-house, ia 

 a greenhouse in winter beforo it is desirable to start the fruit-houses in 

 earnest. If, however, you are resolved to have what temperature you 

 want in winter in the house, and yet keep the Vines at rest, your best 

 plan would be to have in front, two walls, two sills, and two wall-plates^ 

 from 2J to 3 feet apart. In this place plant the Vines, and when pruned 

 bring them down and train them in winter. For this purpose you would 

 require double front sashes, the inner ones to be removed in summer. 

 In most cases one pair of sashes would do. as the front ones might bo 

 placed behind the Vines in winter, and tho Vines be open to the weather 

 then, with the exception of being protected from wet by tho glass roof 

 above them. With double sashes the Vines would be more secure, and 

 many things, as salading, might be kept beneath them in winter. By this 

 mode, too, enough of heat could bo admitted from the house into the 

 space between the sashes to break tho Vines before placing them against 

 the rafters. But for the expense of the double sashes, this plan ia in 

 every way the best, and these inner sashes, if deemed advisable, may b& 

 used for other purposes as soon as the Vinos go up against the rafters* 

 Many modes have been resorted to, by board thuttera and otherwise, to 

 make one set of front lights do, and still give the Vines a little protection, 

 for it should not be forgotten, that Vines grown in a house are never 

 afterwards so hardy as those grown out of doors. One of the simplest 

 of these modes we'have met with is the following:— The front sashes, 

 with studs between them in the usual way, were hung to the front of the 

 wall-plate, on the hook gate-hinge fashion, so that the sashes could be 

 easily put on or taken otf. Tho sashes were 3^ feet in length. Similar 

 hook hinges were fastened on tho inside of the wall-plates. Three feet 

 from the front sill, inside of tho house, a piece of wood, IJ inch thick and 

 15 inches in depth or height, went all the length of the house. Into this 

 space, and as near the giouud as possible, tho Vines were bundled. The 

 front sashes then were moved and hung on the inside of the wall-plate^ 

 the lower end sloping inwards to the boards, and resting on it, and fixed 

 to it by a single screw. Tho space between the sashes occupied by th& 

 studs, between the sill and wall-plate, still remained to be filled up. That 

 was done by a three-quarter-inch piece of wood as long as and an inch 

 wider than the opening, either slightly tacked on at top and bottom, or 

 fixed at bottom to the board with a screw, so that, though a Little tight, 

 the board would move on tho screw so as to admit what front air was 

 deemed advisable. In severe weather a little fern or litter was wrapped 

 among the Vines. For common gi-eenhouse plants, as ah-eady stated, 

 however, there is no necessity for mo\ing the Vines. 



Watering Engine (H. Vaughan).— Any one of the horticultural imple- 

 ment makers who advertise in our columns could supijly such an engine 

 on wheels. Write and ask them to send you a priced catalogue. 



Names of Fruit {Frank).~l, BeuiTc Diel; 2, St. Germain; 3. Black 

 Worcester; 4, Beurre d'Aremberg; 5, Passe Colmar; 6, Glou Morcean* 

 {H. W. P.).— Vicar of Wingfield. (F. L.).— 2, Nouveau Poiteau ; 3, Beurre 

 Diel J 5 and 7, Beurre Clairgeau ; 8, Beurre do Ranee ; 9, Ne Plus Meuris ; 

 13, Beurre Bosc; 15, Doyenne Defnis; 17, Marie Louise. The others are 

 not ripe, we shall keep them and let you Imow the names by-:md-by. 

 (B. ii.).— 1, Bern-re d'Aremberg; 2, Crasanno ; 3, Old Colmar. (H. H.). — 

 1, Van Mons Leon le Clerc; 2, Beune d'Aremberg; 3, Marie Louise j 



