46S 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENER. 



[ December 5, 1865. 



TEOBIABLES. 



Artichokes each 



AsparacTis bnndle 10 



Beans Broftd.. bushel 



Kidney 4 sieve 



Beet. Red " doz. 2 



Broccoli bundle 1 



Brus. Sprouts. .A sieve 3 



Cftbbage .". doz. 



Capsicums 100 1 



Carrots bunch 



Cauliflower doz. S 



Celerj' bundle 1 



Cucumbers each 



pickling .... doz. 



Endive score 1 



Fennel bunch 



Gnrlic and Shallots, lb. 



Herbs bunch 



Uorscradish . . bundle 2 



Leeks bnnch 



Lettnce per ?ci>re 



Mushronnis. . . . pottle 

 Mustd. A Cress, puunet 

 Onions per bushel 



pickling qu.irt 



Parsley ^ sieve 



Parsnips doz. 



Peas quart 



Potatoes bushel 



Kidney do. 



Radishes doz. bunches 



Rhubarb bundle 



Savoys doz. 



Sea-kalo basket 



Spinach bushel 



Tomatoes ^ sieve 



Turnips btinch 



Vegetable Marrows dz. 



s. d. 



3to 



1 

 1 6 

 2 

 3 

 

 1 

 1 



8. d 







2 



2 fi 









 

 

 

 



2 6 



3 

 6 

 

 9 

 2 

 2 

 





 

 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



••* We request that no one \vili write privately to the depart- 

 mental writers of the "Jom-nal of Horticulture. Cottage 

 /■^Gardener, and CoTintry Gentleman."' By so doing they 

 ,'.; iare suhjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, d:c., 171, Fleet 

 Street^ London, E.C. 



We also request that con-espondeuts will not mix up on the 

 same sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on 

 Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to get tbem an- 

 swered promptly and conveniently, but write them on 

 separate communications. Also never to send more than 

 two or three questions at once. 



N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered until nwct 

 week. 



Garden Plans (F. Jlf.).— There is no special work on the subject- 

 " Flower Gardening for the Many " contains some plana. It may be had 

 free by post from this office for fire postage stamps. 



Fellmongers' Waste (Subacriher, near Dm 'W/h)-— Obtain it now. and 

 mis with the loam. Do not mix it with the farmyaid manure. It will 

 do very well for the Strawberry-bod, but we never heard before of 

 putting manure at the bottom of 2t-feet trenches for Strawben-ies. Put 

 both sand from the rabbit hutches" and crushed bones on your adlaesive 

 loam. 



Pears {F. W.).— Only first-rate varieties and specimens axe remunera- 

 tive when sent to London. Inquire of Messrs. Webber & Co., Covent 

 Garden Market. 



Vines in a Glazed Passage tAiimteur).~The Vines would do well if 

 you were to make a border, as you propose. 15 inches wide and S feet 

 deep ; place 6 inches of drainage at the bottom, and have openings in the 

 lowest course of bricks to allow of the suriilus water escaping. " Place a 

 layer of sods, grass side downwards, over the drainage, aud till in with 

 turfy lightish loam, and if tur\-es. cut 3 inches thick, and chopped with a 

 spade pretty iine, all the better; and instead of Vines we would plant 

 Oranges, as we presume frost does not penetrate into the passage. They 

 would look well at all seasons. The Vines in such a naiTOW border could 

 not be expected to do more than cover the wall, and they would be leaf- 

 less in winter. If you were to make the trough or naiTow border, secure 

 its drainage as above, and fill it with a compost of one-third turfy loam, 

 and two-thirds t>irfy sandy peat, you might plant Camellias, which would 

 have a good efl'ect at all seasons, and in winter be gi-and. The very hand- 

 some Ceanothus dcntatus, floribundns, and rigidus, would also do exceed- 

 ingly well. If all you wish for is to cover the wall, then Coboea scandens 

 would do so sooner than anything. Hedera algeriensis would also suc- 

 ceed well in such a position, and form a carpet of gi-een all the year 

 round. The panic soil as for Vines will answer for the Coboea and the Ut- 



Cordylinf, IV jivisa Culture {A Comtant Reader, Colchester). —It does 

 well in a war ■ ^'i-ccnhouse ; though it will succeed well in a cool temper- 

 ature in winter, there is by far too much air given in summer for the 

 plant to make good growth. To do this, it requires to be encouraged in 

 spring and summer by a moist growing heat, as that of a vinery, and 

 when the gi-owth has been made a greenhouse temperature is suitable. 

 A compost of turfy peat two-thirds, and one-third turfv loam, with a free 

 admixture of sand suits it well. Free drainage, plenty of pot room, 

 copious wall rings when growing, with a moist atmosphere, and a sprink- 

 ling from the syringe morning and evening to keep down red spider, to 

 winch it is rather liable, are what it needs, affording a temperature of 

 from 50- to 75- from March to October, and 45 for the other six months 

 of the year, dui-ing which period the soil is to be kept moist, but not wet. 



Dahlias for Exhibition (J. ^.i.— The following are first-rate, and 

 nearly all of them are very constant :— Leah, deep golden yellow ; Ne 

 Plus Ultra, bronzy rose; Charlotte Dorling, white ground, edged and 

 tipped with rosy crimson ; Lord Derby, rosv crimson ; Andrew Dodds, 

 dark maroon; Bob Ridley, red; Miss' Hens'haw. white; Anna Keynes, 

 white, tipped with hlac rose ; Willie Austin, buff ; Criterion, delicate rose ; 

 Lilac Queen, lilac ; and Beauty of Hilperton, purple. 



Rheumatism.— yl Ladii, a constant reader of The JorRNAL of Horti- 

 culture, sends the following excellent cure for rheumatism in answer 

 to a notice which appeared a week or two ago :— Five drops of cajeput 

 oil on a lump of sugar, dissolved in a tumbler of hot water, taken at bed- 

 time and once besides in the day, and persevered in for a few days, will 

 often cure rheumatism, if the complaint is real rheumatism. 



_" Live and Learn."— We have some plans for you from " G. H.," and 

 will send them if you forward to us your direction. 



Fbuit Trees for Walls of a Nbw Garden (K. L.).— South-east 

 aspect. This will be suitable for Apricots and the better kinds of Plums, 

 ten trees at 21 feet apart. Apricots — one Roval, one Kaisha, one Hems- 

 kerk, and two Moorpark. Plums— Green Gage. Early Prolific, Jeflerson, 

 Guthrie's Late Green, and Coe's Golden Drop, one of each. To make 

 the most of tliis wall (12 feet high) standards should be phmted between 

 the dwarfs, to cover the upper part of the wall until the dwarfs grow up 

 and require the space occupied by the standards. They may consist of 

 Victoria, Pond's Seedling, Kirke's, Purple Gage, and Prince of Wales 

 Plums, one of each, or any other good sorts that can be procured. Of 

 Apricots, as standards, four will be required — viz., one Shipley's, one 

 Kaisha, and two Moorpark. The other side of the wall will, of course, 

 have a nortli-west aspect, and though of stone it would, we should think, 

 answer for Pears on the Pear stock. Any difficulty in training the trees 

 may be surmounted by having one-eighth galvanised wire fixed horizon- 

 tally at 9 inches apart, the wires being run through eyes in short, flat, 

 iron pegs or hooks, 3 inches long, driven into the wall in the joints 

 between the stones. The wire should be strained quite tight by fasten- 

 ing one end to an iron rod pierced to admit it. and drawing the wires 

 tight, and fastening them to another iron rod at the otlier end. This is 

 for trees to be trained horizontally; but if they arc to be trained fan- 

 fashion the wires should not be more than 4i inches apart. This dono» 

 the following Pears may be planted 21 feet apart :— Doyenne d'Ete, 

 Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurri-. Superfla, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie 

 Louise, Thompson's, Forelle, Knight's Monarch, Alexandi'e Lambre, and 

 Beurre de Ranee. South-west aspect : Poaches— Early York, Royal 

 George, Grosse Mignonne, and Barrington, one of each ; also one of 

 Elruge and Violette Hutive Nectarines, with standards between on sLx- 

 feet stems, consisting of Eaily York, Noblesse, Early Grosse liliffnonne, 

 and Bellegarde Peaches, one of each, and one Hardwicke SeedUng Nec- 

 tai-ine. We are by no means certain of Peaches doing well in your local- 

 ity against a wall with a south-west aspect, but wo should certainly try 

 them for three or four years, when they would be fine trees; and if they 

 did not bear we would cover the wall with glass, having a house 7 feet 

 wide, and in it a row of Peaches in pots in addition to those against the 

 wall. The other side of the wall, having a north-east aspect, would answer 

 well for Cherries on the CheiTy stock, two Trudescaut's Heart, two Belle de 

 Charmeux, and two Morello, all at 2Ufeet apart. North-east aspect : The 

 wall being only 7 feet in height, is only suitalili! fur Currants, red, white, 

 and black, Gooseberries, and the Chenics pri\i(insly named, which would 

 do well on the ilahaleb at lU feet apart, to them you may add Kentish 

 and Belle Magnifique. The Chen*ies may be on the CheiTy stock, and 

 planted 25 feet apart. The other side of the wall will have a south-west 

 aspect, and will do admirably for Pears on the Quince stock, planted 

 12 feet apart, say one of each of the following: — Brown Beurri, Beurre 

 d'Aremberg, Beurr<^ Diel, Bergamotte d'Esperen, Gansel's Late Berga- 

 mot, Winter Nelis, Glou Morceau, Passe Colmar, Josephine de Malines, 

 and Ne Plus Meuris. North-west aspect: — On this we would plant 

 Apples on the Paradise stock at 15 feet apart, as such trees will bear 

 better on your seven-feet wall. They may consist of Manks Codlin, Kes- 

 wick Codlin, Gravenstein, Lord Sulfield, Winter Peannaiu, Alfriston, and 

 Lucombe's SeedUng ; these are kitchen Apples. For dessei-t we would 

 have Cellini, Court of Wick, King of the Pippins, Lamb Abbey Peannain, 

 Golden Harvey, and Scarlet Nonpareil. The other side of this wall will 

 have a south-east aspect, and be useful for Plums, which may be St. 

 Catherine, Blue Imperatrice, Woolston Black Gage, Belle de Septembre, 

 Early Favourite, July Green Gage, Red and White Magnum Bonum, 

 Kirke's, and Jefferson, at 21 feet apart. 



Wintering Coleus Verschaffelti (P. P.). — It will live in a tempera- 

 ture of 50*^, and even in one as low as 45- if the soil and atmosphere be 

 dry. A well-ventilated part of the house is best, but not where there are 

 cuiTcnts of cold air. No more water should be given than is sufficient 

 to keep the plant alive and prevent the wood shrivelling. 



Primulas {Irfcw)-— Wo have not heard before of these with red flower- 

 stalks and wliito flnwei-s, and. though we grow Primulas largely, we have 

 never had them with white flowers on red stalks. Those having white 

 flowers have invariably gi'een leaves and petioles, and gi'cen flower- 

 stalks. 



Peas, and Times of Sowing (Idem). — Sangster's No. 1 and First Crop 

 are two good early Peas. A sowing should be made in the beginning of 

 December, if not done in the first fortnight of November, and another of 

 Sangster's in February if the gi-ound be open ; a last sowing of the same 

 and also one of Advancer and Bellamy's Early Green Marrow should be 

 made in the first mild open weather in March. In the third week in 

 March sow Bellamy's Early Green Marrow, Piizetaker, and Champion of 

 England. Three sowings in April may be of Champion of England, 

 Matchless MaiTow, Flack's Victory, Veitch's Perfection, and Ne Plus 

 Ultra ; make tlirce sowings in May of Ne Plus Ultra, British Queen, and 

 Hairs' Dwarf IMammoth. a sowing of British Queen and Ne Plus Ultra in 

 the fii'st week in June, and a last sowing on or about the 15th of June of 

 Burbridge's Eclipse and Bishop's New Long-podded Dwarf; you will 

 then have Peas in succession with certainty. 



Greenhouse Arrangements (Marina). — Your house being so narrow 

 would be best with a walk along the centre, and a table or shelf on both 

 sides, that in front being 3 feet wide, and the back four, with a three-feet 

 pathway. The roof is very steep as shown by the sketch sent, unnecessarily 

 so. We would, if the house is not yet erected, have the fi'ont wall built 

 higher, so as to allow of head room 3 feet from the front, and there have 

 a table or stone shelf 2 feet wide, then a three-feet path, and a stage at 

 back. Your proposed plan of having a border by the wall, and a wide 

 shelf or table in front is not desirable, for the plants would for the most 

 part be out of view, from the tallest plants being close to the path and 

 the smaller ones in front. A flue along the front and both ends would 

 afford sufficient heat, and its having the fire-hole in the coui-tyard will 

 not interfere with the heating. 



Garden Plan (Idem). — Yom* arrangements seem to be in the right 

 direction. We would have grass laid quite up to the house on the north 

 side, extending from the house to the cari'iage drive. Borders adjoining 

 buildings do not look well, and instead of having bods cut in the grass, 

 plant, midway between the house and the caiTiage drive, silver and 

 golden-leaved" Holhes, alternately with Irish Yews, at 12 feet apart ; the 

 Hollies to be trained and cut as" pjTamids. Whatever plants you might 

 employ in the beds, were these made, would not do well shaded as they 

 would be by the house, whilst grass and the shrubs would always be 

 green and ornamental. 



