July 10, l&X. ] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



31 



shade if the weather iH bright, so as to insure the wood being 

 plump. Under such circumstances new roots will soon form, 

 and if the plants are not so very far gone you may bo as much 

 troubled next season with strong growth as you are now with 

 weak growth. 



To keep the bushes, i-c, Bmall after planting-out, it will 

 require a good deal of judicious root-pruning. To make the 

 most of such a house for fruit with the least amount of labour 

 and care, I would fix a trellis on each side of the span, 15 inches 

 from tho glass. I would plant-out the best plants on each 

 side, and train to the trellis, and keep the others in pots until 

 the trellis was full. If there were still doubts as to your trees 

 being quite suitable for that trellis, you could obtain from six 

 to eight trained trees for tho trellis, three or four on each side, 

 and keep thoso you have in pots until tho covered trellis left 

 no room for them. Though I have lots of pots doing well, I am 

 convinced that for profit nothing beats tho trellis under the 

 glass. Even in lean-to's, with trees against tho back wall, and 

 some sort of trellis for some three-quarters of the width in 

 front, I am pretty certain that a trellis up the roof under the 

 glass would be the most profitable. Planting-out and keeping 

 as dwarfs in the house has also its advantages, and chiefly on 

 the score of augmented interest, and being placed more under 

 the control of a lady or gentleman amateur ; but on the score of 

 economy every way I do not think anything will surpass a 

 trellis at a uniform distance from the glass, which uniformity 

 alone gives a better security for all the fruit being equally well 

 flavoured. I shall be glad to hear further on the subject. — R. F. 



NEW BOOK. 



Wayside Flora ; or, Gleanings from Rock ami Field toica7-ds 

 Borne. By Nona Bell.uks. London : Smith, Elder, & Co. 

 We welcome this little volume, the contents of which we 

 need not praise, for they have, for the most part, been pub- 

 lished in our pages. They are worthy of a separate form, and 

 it is wishing a good wish when we say that we would not that 

 any civilised being could be found who did not enjoy what is 

 there written. 



Pear Blooming on the Present Year's Wood. — I have a 

 large Jargonelle Pear with several blooms on the present year's 

 wood, some of which have set very freely. Some of the Apple 

 trees aro also showing bloom, but unfertile. — H. S. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The weather is now very suitable for planting out good 

 breadths of Brussels Sprouts, Savoys, Curled Kale, and Broc- 

 colis of sorts. Where the ground is occupied by patches of 

 early or second early Potatoes, to he used in the course of the 

 month, it is a good plan to part the haulm between every 

 second row, and plant Knight's Protecting Broccoli or other 

 spring sorts to stand the winter. The increased space between 

 the rows gives room to earth them up to the neck, they grow 

 stiff and hardy, and are fit to withstand the frosts of our most 

 severe winters. Beans, top these and the tall varieties of Peas, 

 as they are growing very rampant this year from the wet 

 weather. Celery, ridge out for the main crop, also a trench 

 of Cardoons where they are looked for. Cauliflotcer, make 

 sowings in the middle of the month, also of Walcheren, 

 Snow's, and Grange's Broccoli for planting for late lifting, to 

 be packed in beds in the open air. As soon as frosty nights 

 are apprehended a spot is selected for laying them in, in 

 beds 4 or 5 feet wide, with alleys about 2 or 3 feet in width, to 

 retain the litter for covering in frosty nights. It is by far the 

 best way of keeping up through the winter a good supply of 

 fine white heads, devoid of the disagreeable smell and colour 

 they acquire when kept in sheds or sand. Endive, sow the 

 main crop, and plant out a few of the earliest Bowings. Leeks, 

 transplant ; they are better of being earthed up like Celery 

 to the depth of 6 inches. Cucumbers, peg down the shoots of 

 the pickling sorts, to keep them from being blown about by 

 the wind. Capsicums and Tomatoes, keep them nailed to the 

 waUs or wooden fences ; thin also or stop their shoots fre- 

 quently, as they require all the sun possible to produce good 

 crops of fruit in our climate. Lettuces, continue to sow ; also 

 Radishes and Salads of all sorts according to the consumption. 

 Potatoes, earth up the late sorts. 



FRUIT OARDEN. 



See that Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots are nailed, if not 

 already done, as the wind is sometimes very strong about this 

 time, and makes sad havoc with the shoots. Vines on the 

 open walls still requiro rubbing off the useless shoots, nailing 

 in thoBo that are useful, and thinning the Grapes. Currants 

 and Gooseberries requiro all the watery useless shoots to be 

 thinned out. It is a good plan for keeping Red Currants till 

 tho latest period for tarts, Ac, to select some of the best bushes 

 on a dry day, thin all the shoots from the fruit, drive a strong 

 stake in the middle of tho bush, and tio all the branches to 

 it, then wrap one or two good g arden mats round it. From 

 bushes treated in this way a supply may be kept up till No- 

 vember. Trained fruit-tree espaliers should have useless shoots 

 removed. Tho Elton and British Queen Strawberries are 

 colouring badly and rotting in shaded situations, owing to the 

 wet weather. The fruitstalks ought to be propped up with 

 forked sticks, to expose the fruit to as much sun and light as 

 possible. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Attend to the greenhouse plants now placed out of doors. 

 See that worms do not effect an entry into the pots and close 

 the drainage. Attend to the routine of tying, stopping, and 

 other details. Carnations and Picotees may now be layered, 

 and a stock of cuttings of Geraniums put in» Bulbs may be 

 taken up and stored away until the autumn, and their places 

 immediately occupied with flowers from the reserve stock. 

 Perpetual Roses will be benefited by an application of manure 

 water to insure a healthy second bloom. A better production 

 of bloom will be obtained by picking off excessive buds. Rus- 

 sian Violets may be separated, and fresh plantations made. 

 Mow and roll grass. Attend to walks, the weather at present 

 encouraging the growth of weeds. The present is a favourable 

 time for putting in cuttings of all the more showy herbaceous 

 plants, selecting for the purpose the small shoots not furnished 

 with bloom. A north border is a suitable place to strike them, 

 and a hand-glass will facilitate their rooting quickly. Go over 

 the beds frequently, and keep the young shoots of Verbenas, 

 Petunias, &c, nicely regulated and pegged down until the 

 ground be fairly covered, after which greater freedom of growth 

 may be permitted. On light dry soils two or three applica- 

 tions of weak manure water, given at intervals of a few days 

 and when the ground is moist, will greatly assist the plants to 

 cover the beds without loss of time. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



The beauty of the most of the softwooded plants in the con- 

 servatory may be considerably prolonged by the use of weak 

 manure water, which should be given occasionally. Indeed, 

 such things as Achimenes, Clerodendrons, &c, may be had in 

 full beauty for several months if they are supplied with 

 manure water ; but care must be taken not to give it too strong, 

 especially at first. Keep the atmosphere as moist as possible, 

 but avoid damp at night by leaving sufficient air on to cause 

 a gentle circulation, and spare no attention that will keep the 

 plants clear of insects. Stock for autumn and winter flower- 

 ing will now require some care to bring it sufficiently forward 

 to be useful at the proper time. Chinese Primulas, especially 

 the double varieties, if at all backward, may now bo placed ill 

 a close frame and shaded from the sun, when they will be 

 found to make satisfactory progress. Cinerarias for early 

 flowering should also be potted and started at once, choosing 

 the strongest suckers for the purpose, and placing them in a 

 close shady frame until they have become rooted. They are 

 sometimes attacked by thrips, but if they are kept cool and 

 moist and smoked occasionally no danger need be apprehended 

 from this or other pests, and they will grow vigorously. Whilst 

 house-creepers are in an active growth, make it a rule to go 

 over them frequently, in order that they may not grow into a 

 confused state. The same may be said of creepers in pots, 

 which require attention for the same reason every few days. 

 Any shoots which have done flowering should be cut back, and 

 a crowded growth avoided. A number of hardwooded plants 

 which were cut back some weeks since, will now have recovered 

 themselves and be commencing a fresh growth. This is the 

 proper time to shift into larger pots any plants requiring it. 

 Carefully loosen the outside roots. After potting keep the 

 plants closer for a few days, and syringe them daily ; but avoid 

 giving any more water to the roots than is sufficient to pre- 

 serve the old ball moist. To prevent watering so quickly after 

 potting, let the roots of the plants be well moistened before 

 being potted. 



