August ai, law. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



in 



made it tho means of making a large party happy. May be for 

 many, many years have all the success and all the pleasure 

 which ho si) richly deserves.— Wiltshibe KEcron. 



BEDDING PLANTS. 



(Continued from pai/e 98.) 

 VEKBSNiS, — In August take cuttings from the strongest and 

 shortest-jointed shoots, such as start from near the collar, and 

 do not appear disposed to flower. They should" be from 2 to 

 :; inches in length, and have two, or at most three, good joints, 

 in addition to the growing point. The cutting is to be taken 

 off below the lowest joint, and not too closely, as at or a little 

 beneath the joint there may be a root or roots iu course of 

 being protruded, and such may be distinguished upon close ex- 

 amination. To cut off this portion of the stem is to jeopardise 

 the rooting of tho cutting, though the latter may strike if cut 

 quite up 'to the joint, and cutting off the lower part of the 

 shoot midway between the joints is to leave a portion of stem 

 likely to rot ; therefore, take off the cutting from the point 

 beneath the joint' at which it begins to swell upwards. Trim 

 off the leaves from the lowest joint, and from the one next 

 above it if that part is required for insertion in the soil. The 

 cutting should be of such a length that, when inserted, two- 

 thirds of it shall be in tho soil. 



I shall now suppose that the cuttings are ready for insertion 

 cither in pans or iu the frame, there to remain permanently 

 during the winter, but the adoption of either system iu pre- 

 ference to the other is a question which those for whom these 

 notes are written must determine for themselves. If the means 

 are limited to a two-light frame, then I would recommeud the 

 division of the frame into two parts by a partition of wood im- 

 mediately under the bar on which the lights are supported and 

 slide. This division will, of course, be of three-quarter-inch 

 Baltic timber, or red deal boards, tougued and grooved, and fit- 

 ting exactly in the manner of an end with this difference, that it 

 is to fit within the frame. A strip of wood, three-quarter-inch 

 by half-inch, nailed to the sides back and front vertically under 

 the sliding bar, will allow of the division being secured there. 

 The two-light box being thus divided into two parts, either 

 can be opened or shut independently of the other. The half 

 of this frame I propose to fill with Verbena and Gazania cut- 

 tings, aud 1 would choose for it a warm, sheltered, dry situa- 

 tion, open to the south, but protected from the north aud east. 

 The soil where it is to stand is to be taken out to the depth of 

 a foot, and 1 foot b' inches wider than the frame every way, 

 giving the bottom an inclination from the centre to the sides. 

 Iu the place thus dug out spread brickbats or rubble to the 

 depth of 9 inches, then an inch or two of gravel or of the rubble 

 made finer, aud on this set the frame so as to face the south. 

 A couple of iuches of the sittings of the compost may now be 

 spread over the gravel or fine rubble, then 3 inches of turfy 

 light loam two-thirds, and leaf mould one-third, the whole 

 chopped and made fine with a spade, and finally sifted through 

 a riddle with half-inch meshes. On the surface place an inch 

 i if river sand, and, after making it level, gently pat it down with 

 the back of a spade. 



The cuttings may now be inserted in lines 1\- inch apart, and 

 the same distance asunder in the row, putting them in with a 

 dibble just up to the lowest leaves, and pressing the sand gently 

 around them. Two-thirds of the light may in this way be 

 occupied with Verbenas, and the remaining one-third with 

 Gazanias, the cuttings of which are to be taken in the same 

 manner, preferring those which come from the collar, aud, in- 

 stead of cutting, slip them from the plant. They are best 

 when 3 inches long. Cut them transversely below the lowest 

 joint, which may only need a little trimming, remove the leaf 

 from that and the joint next above it, and if the cutting have 

 no more than another joint and the growing point it is a good 

 specimen of the proper kind. These are to be inserted in lines 

 2 inches apart aud 3 from the Verbenas, allowing 1! inch from 

 cutting to cutting in the lines. Put them in in precisely the 

 same manner as the Verbenas — that is, up to the leaves, and 

 close the sand about them. The cuttings having been inserted, 

 give the whole a good watering, but only to settle the sand 

 about them, put on the light, and oover with a mat if the day 

 be sunny. 



The cuttings will never flag, or if they do they will recover 

 by the next morning. They should then be shaded from sun, 

 aud kept close during the day, admitting a little air at night 



by tilting tho frame or light half an inch or so at back. So 

 long as the sand remains moist do not water, but if it show 

 signs of dryness sprinkle the plants overhead in the morning 

 through the rose of a watering-pot. Continue the shading, 

 and, when the cuttings exhibit signs of growth, gradually re- 

 duce the shade, ami admit air during the day as well as at 

 night by tilting the light at back ; but if the cuttings I! 

 diminish the amount of air, and continue to shade until they 

 become well rooted, which will be in three weeks. They are 

 then to have air dav and night, and, after they have been thus 

 gradually hardened' off, at the end of a month the light may be 

 drawn down, and only replaced during heavy rains, remember- 

 ing that the object of doing so is to keep the wet from the soil, 

 and not to deprive the cuttings of air, which must iu this case 

 be given by tilting the glass at back. Afford all the air pos- 

 sible, using the light for no other purpose than protection from 

 wet and frost. A gentle shower will be of advantage at times, 

 but anything tending to make the soil wet, or causing it to be- 

 come green, is to be avoided, at the same time it must be kept 

 sufficiently moist. 



When the weather becomes foggy, aud the ground wet, do 

 not scruple to give air, but keep on the light, admitting air day 

 and night all the same, and this until absolutely obliged to 

 close the frame on account of frost. The other light, respect- 

 ing which I have as yet been silent, is intended for Calceo- 

 larias, which I shall treat of in due time. When frosts occur, 

 the sides of the frame are to be banked up with coal ashes, 

 commencing about a yard from the frame, and carrying the 

 ashes up to the top o'f the sides so that the lights may just 

 slide up and down. This may be done early in November, aud 

 will not only tend to prevent the frost penetrating by the sides 

 of the frame, but will keep the ground from being frozen so 

 near it as would otherwise be the case, and thus give the plants 

 the benefit of the heat of the earth. 



During frost protect the frame with a single thickness of 

 mats thrown over the lights, with two thicknesses if the weather 

 become more severe ; and if the frost is very sharp, in addition 

 to the mats cover with dry short straw or litter, not only the 

 lights, but the ground for a distance of 2 or 3 feet from the 

 frame. This covering may be from 6 to 9 inches in thickness, 

 and need not be removed so long as the ground remains frozen, 

 nor then until a thaw commences. The covering, with the ex- 

 ception of a single mat, which may remain on a day or so, 

 should then be removed, and air admitted by tilting the lights 

 at back, gradually increasing the amount, aud also exposing 

 to light, so that the plants may bear full exposure to both in the 

 course of a week or so. (I here employ the word lights, for these 

 remarks on protection relate to the whole frame, Verbenas 

 and Calceolarias requiring the same treatment as regards pro- 

 tection from frost in winter, aud exposure to light and air after 

 a continuance of frosty weather.; If the frost at night thaws 

 during the dav, the covering is to be removed daily, and air 

 afforded, taking care that it shall not be frosty ; put on the 

 covering at night, and remove it in the morning after it has 

 thawed, not otherwise. Whilst the weather is so cold that the 

 plants cannot make growth, the covering may remain, for the 

 want of air and light will not harm them ; but when the weather 

 becomes mild the plants if left uncovered will grow though in 

 darkness, and the shoots so made are more susceptible of injury 

 than those formed with light and air. It is, therefore, neces- 

 sary to remove the covering as soon after frost as consistent 

 with the safety of the plants, and that is when the covering 

 becomes thawe'd. This is the best guide I know. To sum up, 

 give air whenever the weather is mild, protect from wet as well 

 as from frost, admit air in wet weather, and have protecting 

 materials always iu readiness to throw over the lights when 

 necessary, and I may add that the drier the plants are kept the 

 better they will resist frost. 



Beyond'protection and giving air, the plants will not require 

 any further attention until April, excepting stirring the sand 

 between them, and picking off any mouldy or decayed leaves. 

 Early in April a bed may be made of the litter used for pro- 

 tection, mixed with tree leaves and a little fresh litter; raise 

 the bed to a height of 2 feet or so, and cover it with 3 or -1 inches 

 of turfy loam and leaf mould, two parts of the former to one of 

 the latter. When the bed becomes warmed through take up 

 the Verbenas and Gazanias from the frame, plant them in the 

 bed 3 inches apart every way, and give a gentle watering. An 

 excellent protection may be formed of four 11-inch boards 

 1 inch thick— i.e., two for the ends and two for the sides, nailed 

 to a piece of wood (2 inches square) at the corner, and a few 

 slater's laths (3 inches by half an inch), placed like the rafters of 



