September 4, 1866. ] JOURNAL OF HOBTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GABDENBB. 



177 



WEEKLY CALENDAR. 



HYACINTHS. 



GAIN the time has come round 

 when those who wish to 

 secure good hulbs of this 

 charming winter and spring- 

 flowering plant should be 

 on the alert, as the best 

 bulbs are usually those first imported. 



The exhibitions of last spring clearly established two 

 very important points — 



1, That judging by the size and beauty of colouring of 

 the specimens then exhibited, this plant had previously 

 had but scant justice done to it as regards cultivation. 



2, That notwithstanding this superior cultivation, many 

 of the old favourites must stand aside to make way for 

 the newer kinds, so greatly are the latter in advance in 

 the important points of form, size, and colour. 



Having devoted much time and thought to the cultiva- 

 tion of this plant during the last seven years, and having 

 taken the largest share of the premier prizes at the London 

 exhibitions, I may, perhaps, be pardoned for venturing to 

 offer a few brief remarks on their cultivation, and the 

 varieties best suited for various purposes. 



First, as to growing for exhibition. He who intends to 

 exhibit must make up his mind to buy the best bulbs that 

 can be obtained, for our present exliibitors do this, and 

 unless this be done there is little chance of standing in 

 the foremost rank. The next step is to pot the bulbs 

 early, that they may lose nothing of their strength by 

 being exposed and overdried in the various seed-shops to 

 which the growers from Holland usually consign them 

 about this season of the year. In our large thoroughfares 

 the temptation to expose the finest bulbs is so great that 

 I believe they suffer more from this cause than the sorts of 

 ordinary merit. Pot them, say late in October, one bulb 

 in each pot of the size known as No. 32, two-thirds of the 

 bulb only beneath the soil, placing an inverted thumb-pot 

 over the crown of the bulb before plunging, to keep the 

 ashes or whatever may be used to plunge them in from 

 soiling the bulb. The soil may be composed of two ports 

 turfy loom, chopped fine but not sifted, one-third well- 

 decayed cowdung, and one-third silver or river sand. 

 When potted place them on the hard level ground under 

 a north wall or fence out of doors if convenient, packinw 

 the spaces between the pots tightly with cinder ashes or 

 cocoa-nut fibre. This done, give them one good soaking of 

 water, and cover the tops t> inches deep with the same 

 plunging material. All is now safe till the month of 

 January, when they should be uncovered and removed to 

 cold pits, covering the glass for a few days with a mat 

 that the rising crowns may be gradually inured to the 

 light, and covering by night with double mats or straw to 



No. 2W.— Vol.. XL, Mew Series. 



insure their protection from frost. During the day, unless 

 very frosty, air should be given plentifully to prevent too 

 rapid a development of the leaves, and water should also 

 be given abundantly. Watering with weak liquid manure 

 from the time the leaves begin to grow until the flowers 

 arrive at maturity proves an excellent stimulant. If re- 

 quired to bloom in March, the bulbs should be removed 

 from the pits in February to a house where there is a com- 

 mand of heat, and placed as closely as possible to the 

 glass, giving plenty of air, and using only such an amount 

 of heat as may be required to bring them to perfection 

 at a given date. No definite instructions on these points 

 can be given. The judgment of the cultivator, having due 

 regard to the state of the weather, must deter min e the 

 exact amount of air and heat. When 

 the flower-spikes are about 3 inches long, 

 prepare for tying. Small rods, made of 

 iron wire, bent as annexed, are my fa- 

 vourite plan, as the roots, and conse- 

 quently the flowers, are liable to be 

 injured by placing a stick sufficiently 

 close to the bulb to secure the spike in 

 an upright position. So soon as the 

 first flowers expand a slight shade should 

 be drawn over the glass for a few hours 

 in the middle of sunny days, that the 

 early flowers may be preserved from fading, and the colour 

 of the spike kept uniform throughout. 



The kinds I recommend for exhibition are — 



SINGLE RED. 



Cavaignac. — Beautiful pink, with deep rose stripes ; very 

 fine bells and spike. 



Garibaldi — Shining dark reddish crimson ; good bells, 

 and well-formed spike. Very effective. 



Maeaulay. — Rose colour, with dark red stripes; close 

 and handsome spike. 



Princess Clothilde.- — Rose colour, striped with carmine ; 

 good bells, and handsome spike. 



Solfaterre. — Fine orange red, with light centre, changing 

 to deep red. Very distinct and fine. 



Von Schiller. — Salmon pink, with crimson stripes ; large 

 and exquisitely-arranged spike. 



SINGLE WHITE. 



Alba Maxima. — Pure white; splendid bells, and extra 

 large spike. 



Grandeur a Merveille. — Very pale blush ; large bells ; 

 broad and handsome spike. 



Mirandoline. — Pure white ; closely-arranged bells; long 

 spike. 



Mont Blanc. — Snow white ; splendid bells; long spike. 



Snowball. — Beautiful pure white ; extra large andhand- 

 some bells ; close spike. 



SINGLE BLUE. * 



Charles Dickens. — Light blue and lilac shaded ; extra 

 fine spike. 



Feruek Khan. — Very dark, almost black ; splendid bells, 

 and long spike. ~! — J 



Grand Lilas. — Beautiful pale porcelain : large and hand- 

 some spike. 



N«. 98C.-V0I.. XXXVI., Old Sesuh. 



