aeptembM- 1, 1666. j JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND C01TAGE GARDENER. 



181 



have often covered with turf large breadths of ground in this 

 manner, and if the soil is good, it is speedily covered. All 

 stones, however, should be picked out, as the rain ia sure to 

 bring them to the surface if they are near it. Of course, a 

 free use of the roller and scythe helps to improve the sward, or 

 what is better, the mowing machine may be used when it be- 

 comes established, and this improves turf more than most 

 people are aware of. 



I may be permitted here to observe, that although I have 

 had as much experience as most people with new lawns, I have 

 nevor been very successful with those sown with grass seeds 

 in the spring, aud it is seldom. I believe, that the seeds sown at 

 that time on ground fully exposed to the sun do prosper. The 

 failure, with other observations, has led me to think that the 

 seeds of grass require, while in the course of germinating, a 

 certain amount of shade, and when we consider the mode in 

 which Nature effects the sowing of grass seeds, both the season 

 of year and the amount of shade are at variance with the method 

 which we adopt. The most successful case which I ever knew 

 of raising a good award from seed, was when it was sown early 

 in September. This was a near approach to the natural time, 

 and the young plants are then encouraged by the long nights 

 and heavy dews, instead of having to encounter the scorching 

 sun of early summer — in fact, so necessary is shade for the 

 well-being of newly-sown grass seeds, that it is good practice 

 to give them some artificial shading. For sowings on a small 

 scale, boughs of trees, mats, or other coverings may be used, 

 and a plan better adapted for an extensive plot is to sow some 

 robust-growing plant along with the grass to effect that object. 

 Sometimes a thin seeding of Barley is sown with the grass 

 seed, or some rapid growing plant of the Brassica tribe — as 

 Mustard or Coleseed. No inconvenience is experienced after- 

 wards from any of these plants, as by the first cutting with the 

 scythe they are annihilated. Shade, therefore, should be pro- 

 vided in early summer, but for seed sown in autumn none is 

 necessary, as the plant at that time is so much encouraged 

 by the long nights, and, consequently, shorter periods of sun- 

 shine. 



Of the grasses suitable for forming the best lawns, I do not 

 Offer any opinion, but if a sward be cut from an old pasture, 

 it will most likely be found to consist of the kinds best adapted 

 to that soil and situation, and if removed to similar conditions 

 would flourish there also. That many weeds find their way 

 into our lawns cannot be denied, but the most careful selection 

 of grass seeds will not prevent this, and Daisies, Ciowsfoot, 

 Milfoil, Plantain, and Dandelion will in greater or less number 

 be present. These plants if naturalised to the soil are not 

 easily eradicated, but Clover is often used in grass mixtures, 

 and some persons have no objection to Moss, but all coarse 

 weeds are objectionable. I am not, however, so fastidious in 

 this respect as some, and I have more than once on visiting a 

 lawn belonging to those who take an immense amount of pains 

 with it, been surprised at finding late in the autumn, when 

 the weather has been mild, the whole surface covered with 

 wormcasts in such a way as to collect to the feet and look badly 

 when viewed either close at hand or from a distance. A little 

 more roughness would have obviated this, and the presence of 

 such plants aa Yarrow or Milfoil effectually conceals wormcasts, 

 so that after all this plant has its uses. It also possesses another 

 not less valuable property, its deep-descending routs furnish it 

 with juices sufficient to keep it in luxuriant growth in hot 

 weather when the grass is burnt up, so that notwithstanding 

 its being an intruder, perhaps in a lawn it is not altogether 

 useless. — J. Robson. 



MANURE FOR ROSES. 



1 have a lot of wood ashes and old lime rubbish which I 

 purpose mixing up with a quantity of loam and dung for plant- 

 ing Roses in at the end of the year. Will you say if the wood 

 ashes and lime rubbish are at all likely to be hurtful to the 

 roots of Roses ? 



If it would be of any use to your readers I would with plea- 

 sure send you a list of those varieties which I find do well in 

 a cold and late climate, as also a list of those found to be 

 tander or bad openers. — Sunset. 



[We consulted the Rev. W. F. Radclyffe on the application 

 of the wood ashea, aud this is his reply : — " Mix the lime, soil, 

 and decayed dung, if used, together, and then plant, but on 

 eo account put fresh wood ashes ; the lye from them is highly 

 caustic ; moreover they keep the ground cold by retaining mois- 



ture. Spread the wood ashes on the surface over the radius of 

 the roots in November, and they will do good. If applied to 

 land wood ashes and guano should both, or either, be sown o» 

 a stale fallow." 

 We shall be obliged by your sending tho lists you offer.] 



ELM TREE DISEASED. 



A gentleman residing in Kent has an Elm tree in his garden 

 which is suddenly showing symptoms of disease, the leaves 

 turning yellow and falling off, and the tree is infested with 

 hornets. It is asserted that the attack of the hornets on tho 

 tree is destroying it. On tho other hand this is disputed, the 

 opponents giving it as their opinion that the tree is perishing 

 from other causes, and the hornets are attracted to the parts 

 which have already begun to decay. — H. M. 



[Several years ago some of the trees in the London parks 

 suffered severely from the attacks of an insect (Scolytus destruc- 

 tor), burrowing under the bark. The same insect had pre- 

 viously been equally destructive amongst the treeB in the Paris 

 parks and gardens, and great fears were entertained that its 

 ravages might extend in this country ; but it appears not to 

 have done so to the extent apprehended, and we have not made 

 its acquaintance yet, so cannot give any advice respecting it. 

 Elms are, however, subject to what we might call paralytic af- 

 fections, as large limbs will break off in calm fine weather 

 without the least warning and from no apparent cause. Aged 

 trees are very liable to this, and thus become more or less dis- 

 figured ; butwe cannot account for the tree you mention falling 

 so suddenly into ill health, unless something has happened to 

 the roots. " Perhaps they have been cut severely ; or has any 

 deleterious matter suddenly come in contact with them ? The 

 attack of hornets is evidently a result, and not the cause. We 

 have always regarded the Elm as a healthy free-growing tree, 

 but not destined to arrive at so great an age as the Oak, Beech, 

 and Yew. It is a faster grower than any of these, and also 

 arrives at a greater size. If we can hear of any similar case 

 to yours, which is likely to throw any light upon it, we will 

 record it. In the meantime it would be advisable to examine 

 the roots ; and though it is impossible to stop the bleeding, 

 you may, nevertheless, try the effect of cutting off one or two 

 of the branches most affected, and sear the wound over with a 

 hot iron. We hold out no hopes of much success by adopting 

 this plau, but it may do good.] 



MANURING FOR AND PLANTING 

 STRAWBERRIES. 



Ap.e Strawberries likely to suffer from over-manuring* 

 Some persons say it will make them run more to leaf than 

 to fruit. I propose after trenching the ground two spits deep 

 to plant them as Cauliflowers are planted— that is, to make a 

 trench not so deep, and lay manure in it. Do you approve of 

 this ? — Agnes. 



[Y'ou may over- manure as well as under-manure. It is 8 

 matter of judgment, depending on the quality, and on the soil. 

 We do not approve of the planting in trenches, but always 

 plant on the flat ground. Buy the varieties called Dr. Hogg 

 and Mr. Radclyffe, they are very superior in every possible 

 respect : fine constitutions, sure setters, beautiful plants, and 

 hardy. Cockscomb is also a very good late heavy-cropping 

 Strawberrv, and so are Wonderful and Frogmore Pine. Mr. 

 Radclyffe "and Dr. Hogg colour well all over ; Cockscomb ana 

 Wonderful do not colour so well to the points.] 



ORCHARD-HOUSE CULTURE. 

 Yot'R paper often contains accounts of remarkable successes 

 in orchard-house culture ; but " Constant Reader," page 140, 

 seems the most fortunate of all. Not only do his Vine roots 

 thrive among faggots and old wood, which usually breed fungus, 

 but he ripens off Muscat Grapes, which in other places require 

 artificial heat. His Vine-clad rafters produce no shade which 

 is detrimental to the Peaches beneath them. His potted trees 

 are "aU paragons of perfection;" and what is still more re- 

 markable," those which were put out into the open air in June 

 had already, when his letter was written, produced " ripe fruit 

 of exquisite flavour and colour." As he names only Apricots, 

 Peaches, and Nectarines, and the word " colour " probably 



