352 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ November G, 186C. 



wall. The same remarks will apply to Bath Cos Lettuce, which 

 will require similar attention. Endive, it may he taken up by 

 the roots, and either planted in a frame, or in any shed where 

 protection can he afforded. Good sound heads of Bath Cos 

 Lettuce will also keep for a long time in this manner, or under 

 a frame. Make a sowing of Peas and Beans. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Proceed with former directions as regards planting out fruit 

 trees of all sorts. Go over Peach and Nectarine trees occasion- 

 ally, and brush off the leaves, which will afford the wood a 

 better chance of becoming properly matured. Cast an eye over 

 the trees in the orchard, and see if there is a necessity for a 

 judicious thinning-out of the branches. The excessive rains we 

 have had of late have rendered the operation of planting on 

 stiff and tenacious soils impracticable for the present — that is, 

 ordinary planting ; but where planting extraordinary, such as 

 .the removal of large trees, is to be carried into effect, that 

 may be proceeded with where the soil has been properly 

 chopped and mixed, and, of course, left on the margins of the 

 holes in sharp or pointed ridges to throw off the wet. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Where the land is not too wet alterations of ground and 

 planting should be carried on with dispatch, but on no account 

 attempt planting when the soil is in a state of puddle. The 

 drier soil is when placed round the roots of newly-planted 

 trees and shrubs, provided they are judiciously watered in, the 

 sooner they will emit fresh roots. Mulching is, however, re- 

 quisite to keep out frost, and earlier in the season to prevent 

 evaporation. As tree leaves are always in request, either as fer- 

 menting material or for leaf soil, they should at this season be 

 carefully collected. If they are required only as a manure, 

 they may be stored away in any by-place, and left to rot; but 

 if, as is generally the case, they are in demand as a cheap mode 

 of furnishing bottom heat to Pines, as well as for forcing dif- 

 ferent kinds of vegetables, some pains should be taken to keep 

 them dry. For this purpose they could be stacked up in some 

 back place, or behind the garden walls, where access can be had 

 to them at all times, and after allowing time for them to settle, 

 put on a coat of thatch to effectually secure them from rain. 

 By these means they will be found in a state fit for use for a 

 twelvemonth hence. Roll and cleanse lawns from wormcasts. 

 Lime water may be employed to destroy worms, if too nu- 

 merous. Transplant Sweet Williams and single Wallflowers 

 into borders, plant out bulbs, and examine those previously 

 Set. Mice are particularly prone to destroy them. See to even 

 small plants being secured against wind, for these are often 

 greatly injured by being blown about after planting, which a 

 small stake and a few minutes' work would prevent. Secure a 

 stock of Briars for budding upon next season. Let the roots be 

 well trimmed, cutting back closely the old ones ; for these, 

 if left, will be of little use except to furnish an endless supply 

 of suckers. Look over the herbaceous borders, and make any 

 projected alterations there, taking up and dividing any of the 

 coarse-growing plants that may be inclined to encroach too 

 much upon their neighbours. The modern system of garden- 

 ing is fast driving this class of plants out of cultivation ; but 

 many of them are really beautiful, and if they were more largely 

 grown our gardens would not have that naked appearance in 

 Spring which is too often seen. Sweep and roll grass frequently, 

 and keep gravel walks hard and smooth by frequent rollings. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



Attend to the last week's directions as to guarding against 

 damp, giving air freely when the state of the weather admits, 

 and use fire heat only when it is indispensable, and then as 

 sparingly as may consist with safety. It will probably be 

 necessary to subject many plants to gentle forcing in order to 

 secure a constant succession of bloom for furnishing the con- 

 servatory, for few plants will make much progress at this 

 season unless encouraged with a temperature considerably 

 warmer than would be required to keep them in health. Where 

 forcing must be resorted to, exercise foresight, and endeavour 

 to avoid having to subject the plants to a very high tempera- 

 ture, which is very injurious to many things, and the. flowers 

 cannot be expected to last so long as if they were developed in 

 a temperature more suitable to the habit of the plant. Look 

 over the plants in the greenhouse frequently, and examine very 

 closely all that are liable to suffer from mildew and damp, such 

 as Leschenaultias, Boronias, <fec, for a short neglect will some- 

 times result in the disfigurement of a promising plant. The 

 Boronias, Leschenaultias, Gompholobiums, See., are very im- 

 patient of exposure to cold drying winds, and if they must be 



wintered in the same house with the hardier kinds of green- 

 bouse plants, they should occupy a position where they willnot 

 be exposed to cold draughts, but air must be admitted by the 

 top sashes freely on fine days. Young specimens of Azaleas 

 which have been growing in heat had better be removed to a 

 cool house for a few months, which will cause them to start 

 more freely in spring. Keep Cinerarias and other softwooded 

 stock clear of the green fly, and endeavour to secure stocky 

 plants by affording them sufficient pot room. Cinerarias are 

 rather liable to be attacked by mildew at the present season, 

 and if this enemy make its appearance, apply sulphur im- 

 mediately it is perceived. 



STOVE. 



Now that that we have short dull days and long nights, great 

 care must be taken with all plants that have completed their 

 growth, they must be kept free from all excitement and pretty 

 dry at the roots. This applies to Cycnoches, Catasetums, 

 Phajus albus, Cyrtopodium, Peristerias, Oncidiums, and most 

 of the Dendrobiums. Look well to all growing plants, see that 

 they do not suffer from want of water, use the syringe but 

 partially, and look to all small plants growing on blocks or in 

 baskets. Repot or surface-dress all that require it and are 

 starting into growth. Keep the temperature of the house at from 

 55° to 70°, and never let the air become too dry. Of course, 

 all shading is discontinued, and all lights should be washed in 

 order that the plants may enjoy as much light as possible. 

 Keep a diligent look-out for all kinds of vermin, let all be neat 

 and clean, and arrange the plantsin the most effective order. — 

 W. Keane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The work here has been much the same as in previous 

 weeks. Had some refuse ashes from the mansion riddled 

 whilst dry to place round Celery in course of being earthed-up, 

 as the soil is wetter than we like it for that purpose, and we 

 must now be prepared for frost, which is almost sure to visit 

 us on clear nights and clear mornings, after such continuous 

 rains as that of last Tuesday. So long as the moon is on the 

 wane, we are also more liable to have frost in the morning 

 than in the evening, and this renders more protection neces- 

 sary at night than would otherwise be required, and especially 

 when, as in our own case, most of the half-hardy plants have 

 not yet been placed in their winter quarters. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Planting Frnit Trees. — Planted dwarf standard or pyramidal 

 fruit trees on raised platforms. We have no fault to find with 

 tall standard fruit trees for orchards, but they will soon be 

 banished from regular kitchen gardens. Planted in quarters 

 they sadly interfere with cropping and the healthy growth of 

 all beneath them ; and then they are difficult to manage, give 

 much trouble to gather the fruit from them, and are very liable 

 to have the fruit all blown down, this, too, being more bruised 

 and spoiled in kitchen and fruit gardens than when thrown 

 on the grass in an orchard. Nice dwarf bush or pyramidal 

 trees, whether in rows by the sides of the walks or in quarters 

 by themselves, interfere less with the general cropping, and 

 may be examined and the fruit gathered even by ladies and 

 gentlemen without any trouble, or the necessity of either shak- 

 ing or of using ladders. 



Where there is a hungry gravelly subsoil, or a cold tenacious 

 clay, the trees will do better when raised on little mounds 

 above the surrounding level ; and if the bottom of the plat- 

 form is paved or concreted to prevent the roots going down, 

 they will be still more easily managed. The cheapest plan is 

 concreting after the ground is well firmed beneath, which con- 

 creting may be done from 3 to 4 inches thick by mixing six 

 parts of clean sandy gravel with one of fresh lime, using 

 enough of water to mix, and laying it down directly. Such a 

 platform should be about 5 feet in diameter and highest in the 

 centre, and when well set should be covered, when the trees are 

 planted, with from 16 to 24 inches of soil. A platform will render 

 root-pruning more easy, and the roots being forced at first to 

 take a horizontal position, will be more inclined to continue in 

 that direction if moisture is secured at the surface by mulch- 

 ing. The roots are more easily pruned round the platform. 

 Without such a bottom strong perpendicular roots will have to 

 be cut at times, and with more labour to get under the tree. 

 The planting on a platform some 12 or 15 incbes, when finished, 

 above the surrounding soil, makes that, too, more easy, as a 

 deep trench is not required. Heavy crops, a little root-prun- 



