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JOUKNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ November 6, 1866. 



Qoeen Anne's Pocket Melon.— "You say that it is of flue flavour. I 

 have grown it for fifteen years, and find it one of the third-class kinds, 

 although it merits everything else that you say in its favour. I find it 

 very useful as a substitute for Poaches, &c. It may be grown in a 

 12-inch pot, and produce from twelve to twenty fruit from one plant. I 

 have of ten shown it, but never obtained a prize for it, owing to its in- 

 ferior flavour. It always had its share of attraction from the beauty of 

 its colour, and I wonder that it is not more commonly grown. — Robert 

 Hawkins." [We take this opportunity to express our regret that so 

 many applicants for the seed of this Melon had to be disappointed. Al- 

 though we sent only two to each applicant as soon as we found the 

 largeness of the demand, our supply was exhausted in two days, and 

 hundreds of letters had to be returned with no other reply than " Not a 

 seed left. "—Eds.] 



Variegated-leaved Violet (G. C.).~ We never saw a variegated- 

 leaved blue Russian Violet. The gentleman you name is in ill-health. 



Show Gooseberries (ff. R, H.).— lied: London, Wonderful, Conquer- 

 ing Hero. Yellow : Criterion, Drill, Leveller. Green : General, Green 

 London, Thumper. White : Antagonist, King of Trumps, Snowdrift. 



Hyacinth Pots.—" In reply to ' J. M.' and others, Hyacinth pots of a 

 veT superior description may be bought of Messrs. Adams & Co., Manu- 

 facturers, Shelton, Staffordshire. They are made of a much better clay 

 than usual, and being turned are perfectly smooth. The shape, too, is an 

 improvement upon the old straight-sided pot with a rim round the edge, 

 being made without one, and slightly flanged. Size 7| inches high by 

 5£ inches wide. Price, with stand, $d. each at the manufactory. They 

 have been generally admired, and tend to add to the effect of these 

 beautiful bulbs. — An Old Subscriber." 



Planting a Like Tree Avenue (ignoramus).— Ton may safely plant 

 Lime trees 10 or 12 feet high, if they have been removed within the last 

 two years. When the trees are taken up be careful in securing all the 

 roots, and spread these out at their full length in replanting. Secure the 

 plants from being shaken by winds for the first year, by stakes or other 

 means. You may plant as soon as the leaf falls in autumn, and the mode 

 you propose will do very well— viz., allowing 100 feet between the rows, 

 and 35 feet from plant to plant, and as you contemplate a second row on 

 each side, this row may be planted as you propose in triangles of 35 feet. 

 If you have to select your trees from a nursery, choose 6uch as have been 

 standing a good distance apart, for those which are drawn up from being 

 toi close together are apt to become crooked when turned out into open 

 quarters. A distance of 100 feet is not too much for an avenue. We have 

 an avenue of Elm trees very similar to the one which you purpose 

 making; there are two rows on each side, the trees being about 30 feet 

 apart in the rows, and the inner rows 90 feet asunder, and their tops 

 have met in several places. The trees, however, are large ones, and have 

 grown much during the last twenty years. 



Wall Peach, Apricot, and Pear Trees Meeting on a Wall (O. P.). 

 —The trees having covered the wall, your only plan is to keep them 

 closely pinched ; in spring allow the shoots to make three leaves, then 

 pinch out their points, taking out the point of the lateral growth when it 

 has made one leaf— in other words, stop all the growths that come from 

 the wood of previous years at the third joint, and the shoots from the 

 those once stopped at the first joint beyond the first stopping. This 

 plan will keep your trees plentifully furnished with spurs and fruit-buds, 

 and prevent their energies being expended on useless wood, at the same 

 time admitting sun and air to the fruit. Allowing the shoots to grow in 

 summer affords work for the knife in winter, and wastes the energies of 

 the trees, as the growths rob the fruit of support, light, and air, and pre- 

 vent the fruit-buds ripening. The more a tree grows the less it will 

 fruit. 



Wintering Verbenas, Calceolarias, and Cinerarias (O.).— We fear 

 that in an unglazed pit you will not bo able to afford the plants a suffi- 

 cient amount of light when the weather is mild, nor when it is cold and 

 yet not so frosty as to render it advisable to keep the plants closely 

 covered up. In addition to protection from frost, they require light and 

 air, and that we fear you will not be able to give them, as your calico 

 covering is not sufficient to keep off rain, though it would answer for 

 protecting them from cold winds. 



Hotbed Manure for Pelargoniums, &c. (J. K, £)., North of Ireland).— 

 Your manure three years old, taken from a Melon-bed, now bo 'decayed and 

 dry as to be easily sifted through a fine riddle, is excellent to mix with 

 soil for Pelargoniums and Fuchsias. A very good compost may be formed 

 of equal parts of loam, leaf mould, and decayed manure, with one-sixth 

 sand. 



Evergreens under Trees (H. A.).— We find nothing equal to Aucuba 

 japonica, Common Laurels, Yew, Holly, St. John's Wort, Alexandrian 

 Laurel, Berberis Darwinii and aqnifolium. Evergreen Privet, Laurus- 

 tinus. Periwinkles, and the different kinds of Iw. The last two are 

 excellent for surface -coveiing. 



Old Plants i^ersits Cuttings of Pelargoniums (Fred).—- Old plants on 

 account of their size, less vigorous habit, and early flowering, are to a 

 certain extent preferable to cuttings, but they have not that freshness of 

 foliage which a young plant always possesses as compared with those 

 which are older; besides, an autumn-struck cutting flowers nearly as 

 early and as well as an old plant, and the trusses are larger. 



Grass Edgings (Idem).— Your grass edging will cut clean if the walks 

 be kept brimful of gravel, and the edges of the grass frequently rolled, so 

 as to make them firm. 



Plunging Hyacinths (Mem).— The Hyacinth bulbs will be much 

 benefited after potting by being plunged in the open ground, and covered 

 with cocoa-nut refuse for five or six weeks. They will do even better if 

 plunged in a cold frame in cocoa-nut refuse and covered with 3 inches of 

 the same, as then they will not be liable to be deluged with rain and to 

 rot at the crown. 



Manuring Beds and Borders (Idem).— Now is a good time, and up to 

 Christma-, for applying manure, as it becomes incorporated with the soil, 

 and does not induce so rank a growth as if applied in spring. Another 

 reason is, it may be used fresher now than in spring, and the fresher it is 

 the more rich it will make the soil. 



Compost for Neapolitan Violets £L.). — Turfy loam Sroni rotted 

 turves two-thirds, and leaf mould one-third, with the addition, of Qne- 

 sixth of bone dust, will grow them welh 



Back Numbers (S. Rogers].— Yaxx. can have the Numbers published 

 June 28, July 26, September 27, and October 4, 1S64, if you forward 

 sixteen postage stamps with your address. 



Imantophyllum, Agapanthcs, Belladonna and Guernsey Lilirs 

 done Blooming (A. C. C. if.).— Keep the first two in a greenhouse, giving 

 no more water in whiter than will keep the foliage from flagging. After 

 flowering gradually withhold water if the bloom be in autumn ; and in 

 spring and summer, when in active growth, keep well supplied with 

 moisture, the Agapanthus especially. The latter will do out of doors in 

 summer, and in winter with moderate protection in sheltered situations. 

 The Imantophyllum is a greenhouse plant, requiring a period of free 

 growth and a season of dryness or rest, with abundance of light and air- 

 The Belladonna Lilies should be kept on the shelf of a greenhouse, be under 

 potted, and be plentifully supplied with water when growing. Always 

 give as much water as to a Pelargonium, and never allow the soil to be-, 

 come dust dry. The Belladonna and Guernsey Lilies after blooming 

 may be placed at the end of a cold pit, plunging the pots in coal ashes, 

 and tilting the lights back and front, except when the thermometer falls 

 5- below freezing point ; then shut up until there be a change of weather. 

 Keep well watered from the end of February to the middle of May, and 

 then close the frame, keeping on the glass, for you cannot make the 

 place too hot. The best plan of all is to make a bed for the Belladonna 

 and Guernsey Lilies in front of a stove or greenhouse. Let it be well 

 drained, and deep, but with its surface above the surrounding ground 

 level. Plant the bulbs, early in July, 6 inches deep, and the same distance 

 apart, and give them a mulching of short litter in winter. 



Rebting Begonia fuchsioldes (Idem). — This, like every other plant, 

 requires a season of rest, and that is after it has bloomed, and generally 

 in winter. It is not necessary to rest it like other Begonias, by which 

 we presume you mean keeping them dry in winter, for at that season we 

 grow it on for blooming in early spring. Once a-year, however, it should 

 have a rest for three months, withholding water when we find, growth 

 arrested and the leaves becoming yellow. Water may be withheld from 

 it to the extent of arresting growth, and yet not so as to cause the fleshy 

 stems to shrivel. The plant will start again from or near the surface of 

 the soil ; then cut away the old stems, leaving a sufficient number of the 

 young growths. To bloom, it requires a temperature of 55° from fire 

 heat, with an abundance of light, air. and moisture. When at rest a 

 temperature of from 45 J to 50- 1 is suitable. 



Lilium longiflorum (G. S.) — No good results from keeping the soil 

 dry when Lilies have ceased flowering, though it should be drier than 

 when they are growing, especially as yours are in an orchard-house 

 where they will not be entirely secure from frost. Keep the soil moist. 

 The young shoots are, as you conjecture, from the offsets, which you may 

 remove and pot now. 



Bigarreau Cherry Unfruitful (An Inquirer).— We think if you were 

 to pinch in to three leaves all the wood shoots (except the leaders) which 

 now attain 18 inches, and continue to do so throughout the summer, 

 that the tree would bear plentifully. We recommend your trying thi.7> 

 system next year, and we think vigour will be checked. If, however, 

 after having done this, you find upon examination that the roots are 

 deep, then we would take up the tree carefully, shorten the thick roots, 

 and replant the tree with the roots nearer the surface, or even on the 

 level, covering them with 6 inches of fresh soil. You may get rid of the 

 caterpillars by syringing the trees with a solution of soft soap at the rate 

 of 2 ozs. to the gallon of water, or a syringing with clear lime water will 

 answer. 



Sea Sand (A Subscriber). — Sea sand well washed in fresh water will do 

 instead of river sand to place round Hyacinth bulbs in the open air. 



Grapes Shanking (A Subscriber). — We think your proposed application 

 of lime will be of little avail. A better plan would be to lift the Vines 

 now, form a concrete bottom to prevent the roots going down, and on 

 that place a foot of drainage ; then, elevating the border well above the 

 ground level, plant with the roots near the surface, mixing with the soil 

 one part in four of old mortar rubbish. A covering of leaves or litter 

 18 inches thick placed on the border would do good, and by creating a 

 gentle heat would promote root-action. If you use the lime, one cartload 

 will be sufficient for the border. 



Myrtles infested with Thrips (South Devon). — The sprig of Myrtle 

 sent has been made white by thrips. Your remedy is to syringe the 

 plants forcibly with soft soap dissolved in water at the rate of 2 ozs. to 

 the gallon, applying it at a temperature of 120". A few good syringings 

 will soon clear the plants, and frequently syringing them in the evening 

 in hot weather will generally keep down thrips. You may cover the 

 ground now for a distance of a yard from the stem with leaf mould 

 to the depth of 3 inches, which will be sufficient manuring. 



Succulents for Plant Case (A. J.).— We fear you are proceeding 

 wrong altogether. No plants require so much light as these. We would 

 advise Ferns, but to show our willingness to serve you, the following 

 would no doubt grow well: — Aloe maculata, A. tenuifolia, A.] flavispina, 

 A. dichotoma, A. glauca, A. spinosa, A. tuberculata; Hawortbia parva, 

 H. translucens, H. hybrida ; Cotyledon coruscans and canaliciilata ; Sem- 

 pervivum, rupifragrum, and cruentum; Mesembryanthemum margina- 

 tum and filamentosum ; MammiUaria prolifera, M. tenuis, M. colum- 

 naris, and M. turbinata ; Cereus speciosissimus, and C. flagelliformis ; 

 Melocactus amcenus; Opuntia fragilis, and O. mollis; Crassula ciliata, 

 C. acutiformis, C. versicolor, and C. cordata ; Cacalia articulata, 

 and Globulea hispida. 



Magnolia grandiflora (N. C.).— We are not aware that the Magnolia 

 can be grafted on any stock except one of its own genus, and propa- 

 gation is much more certain and expeditious from layers. 



Apples and Pears (A. J.).— Eight excellent and long-keeping Dessert 

 Apples are Stunner Pippin, Cockle Pippin, Court of Wick, M&rgil, Court 

 Pendu Plat, Nonpareil, Scarlet Nonpareil, and Claygate Pearmain. Four 

 excellent and keeping Dessert Pears are Beurre d'Aremberg, Zcphirin 

 Gregoire, Josephine de Malines, and Ne Plus Meuris. 



Growing Grapes for Profit (H. W. C.).— There can be no question 

 as to hothouse Grapes being grown profitably. The chief essentials for 

 success are : — 1, That the grower should thoroughly know what he is 

 about. 2, That a suitable market for this produce should exist, and tho 

 grower should know at what times this produce would be most re- 

 munerative ; and 8, That the price of fuel an.d. the expense of carriage; 

 should not be excessive. 



