370 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ November IS, 1866. 



carbonic acid ; bat that is what we should expect, for the car- 

 bonic acid so evolved (whether its evolution be called respira- 

 tion or not), must be a product of decomposition of the leaf's 

 contents or substance. 



We owe to Boussingault and his assistant Lewy the idea of 

 determining the composition of the air contained in a fertile 

 soil, and the fact that this air in a strongly-manured soil con- 

 tains a very large per-centage of. carbonic acid. Boussingault 

 has now devised an experiment by which the air contained in 

 a branch of an Oleander in full vegetation was extracted. It 

 proved to be nitrogen 88.01 per cent., oxygen (3.64, carbonic 

 acid 5.35 per cent., — being about the composition of the air 

 from a well-manured soil. This carbonic acid carried into the 

 leaves with the sap, and also that which they may absorb 

 directly from the atmosphere, decomposed along with water 

 under sunlight, must be the source of the glucose (C^H^O,.,), 

 which it is the principal function of foliage to produce. This 

 glucose, in fixing or abandoning the elements of water, becomes 

 sugar, starch, cellulose, or other hydrates of carbon, which, in 

 whatever part of the plant accumulated or deposited, and how- 

 ever transformed or re-transformed, must always have origi- 

 nated from carbonic acid and water in the green parts of plants; 

 In closing his present paper with some illustrations of this now 

 familiar view, Boussingault announces that his more recent ex- 

 periments will enable him to demonstrate the direct formation 

 of saccharine matter by the green parts of vegetables exposed 

 to the light. — (American Journal 6'tt. and Arts.) 



WOPtK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



Continue to encourage the planting of crops in every respect 

 as previously directed. Broccoli and Borecole, continue to hoe 

 between. Celery, Cardoons, and Leeks should be earthed up in 

 dry weather. Cabbage, clear un all decaying leaves, &c, and 

 stir the surface of the soil on dry days among growing crops, 

 as also Spinach, and let all vacant ground be manured and 

 ridged. Endive is blanched for salads and kitchen use in 

 various ways ; but the method which we prefer is, after tying 

 up as much as will be required for blanching at one time, to 

 cover it with dry leaves and throw a little long litter over it to 

 prevent them from being blown about. Mushrooms, take ad- 

 vantage of wet days for making fresh beds and clearing out 

 those that are spent j also collect and prepare droppings for 

 forming fresh beds by spreading them in a shed and turning | 

 them over every day until they are sufficiently dried to prevent 

 excessive fermentation after putting up. Peas, a sowing of j 

 these and of Beans, to afford the chance of a very early crop, [ 

 may now be made, choosing a sheltered piece of ground for 

 the purpose; the soil should be of a very light, dry charac- 

 ter. For Peas use an early hardy sort, such as Sangster's i 

 No. 1 or Daniel O'Rourke. Rhubarb, the forcing of this and j 

 of Sea-kale must now be attended to, and where there is a good I 

 stock of strong roots, a supply of these will be easily kept up. 

 Where there is room to spare in the Mushroom-house this 

 forms a very suitable and convenient place for forcing them. 

 The roots should be placed on a slight bed of warm dung, fill- 

 ing up the space between them with old tan, or the soil and 

 manure, mixed, from an old Mushroom-bed, giving a good 

 watering to wash it in amongst the roots. The bottom heat 

 should not be allowed to exceed 70°, as too much heat is not 

 favourable for securing strong growth, and, except for the first 

 crop, it may be dispensed with altogether. Radishes, if not 

 already done, sow a crop in a frame for winter. Spinach, 

 Winter, stir the soil between, and thin out to 10 inches apart. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Pruning and nailing should now be commenced. Much more 

 can be accomplished in a day and with greater ease when the 

 weather is mild. Lay the wood in without a superabundance 

 of shreds ; a good eye and a quick hand are the essentials in 

 this matter. Let the shreds correspond with the size of the 

 wood, for what an absurd appearance is given by the use of 

 large, wide shreds to small shoots, or the reverse. Prepare 

 shreds and clean nails in wet weather, and make the best use 

 of them you can while the weather is mild. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Choice plants in borders intended to be protected for the 

 winter by slightly covering their roots. &c, should be seen to 

 at once. Moss, where it can be obtained in good thick flakes, 

 is by no means a bad protecting material ; but unless it can be 

 procured in pieces of considerable thickness it is not so effi- 



cient or useful as spent tan, coal ashes, or half-decayed leaves. 

 Also attend to Fuchsias, and such plants as are usually pro- 

 tected for the winter by coverings, so as to secure them against 

 frost before it is too late. Dry Fern is an excellent material 

 for covering the stems of plants that require slight protec- 

 tion in winter, and is, doubtless, the least objectionable as 

 regards colour of anything at command ; but this is not easily 

 procured in many neighbourhoods, and probably the best sub- 

 stitute is straw that has been exposed to the weather sufficiently 

 long to darken its colour. Choice sorts of Hollyhocks, of 

 which there is not a sufficient stock of well-established young 

 plants in pots, should be taken up and potted now, and placed 

 under glass. These cannot with safety be trusted to the mercies 

 of a severe winter, and plants taken up now, potted, and wintered 

 in a cool house, will be exceedingly useful for furnishing cut- 

 tings, and these if put in early in spring will make excellent 

 plants for next season. Where alterations are in hand, push 

 these forward with all possible dispatch while the weather con- 

 tinues favourable for out-door operations. Be very careful to 

 secure transplanted subjects against tbe wind, especially large 

 plants, which should never be left before they are properly 

 staked or otherwise made fast, for when this is put off it fre- 

 quently happens that the roots are injured, owing to the tops 

 being rocked about by the wind. Let any alterations intended 

 in the shrubbery or pleasure grounds be completed as soon as 

 possible. This is one of the finest autumns for planting that 

 we have experienced for years. When every gentleman planter 

 shall be at as great pains to beautify the distant landscape as 

 he is now and has been at for years in enibellishing that near 

 his residence, the country will present a very different appear- 

 ance ; and had the various soils been planted with the trees 

 best suited to them and to their situation, our spring, summer, 

 and autumn scenery would have displayed a greater variety 

 than at present. 



GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



The summer-flowering twiners will usually become unsightly 

 at this season, and should be cut back somewhat freely. The 

 slight shade which they afford in summer to plants underneath 

 them, it need scarcely be stated, is not now required. Let pot 

 specimens iu bloom be frequently re-arranged, so as to make 

 the most of them, for the finest plants become too familiar to 

 be interesting when allowed to remain too long in one place. 

 Little can be said as to these departments at present, the advice 

 of the last three weeks may still be carried out. It may be 

 added — Do not use fire heat to any of the mere winter houses 

 or pits, unless a necessity exists. 



COLD PITS. 



If not already done, let straw shutters, or whatever else it 

 may be intended to use for coverings for these, be prepared and 

 put in readiness for use without delay. Straw shutters, if well 

 made, are somewhat expensive in the first instance, but they 

 are considered by many to be the most efficient covering in use, 

 and taking into account the time they last, they are, perhaps, 

 as cheap as any. Expose the stock here freely to air on every 

 favourable opportunity, so as to check growth and make the 

 wood firm, iu which state the plants will be less liable to suffer 

 from the confinement which may soon be necessary than if 

 kept close and coddled with too much warmth and moisture. 

 Very little water will be required at the root, but look over the 

 stock every few days, withholding water until it is absolutely 

 necessary, and then give a moderate soaking, which is the only 

 safe method of watering at this season. If green fly make its 

 appearance on any of the softwooded plants, apply tobacco 

 smoke, and see that this pest is extirpated at once, otherwise it 

 will disfigure if not ruin the plants upon which it is allowed to 

 harbour. Heaths and other plants subject to the attacks of 

 mildew must be closely watched, and sulphur applied the 

 moment the enemy is perceived ; but neither this nor green fly 

 will be very troublesome unless the plants are kept too close 

 and damp, therefore be careful to keep the stock rather dry, 

 giving plenty of air whenever that can be done with safety. 

 The pits and frames containing Auriculas, Carnations, and 

 similar plants, should have the lights drawn off every fine day. 

 If any of the plants should want water, give it sparingly, and 

 only to those in actual need of it. — W. Keane. 



DOINGS OF THE LAST WEEK. 

 Drainage. — This may not be the best time for commencing 

 operations, but it is often the most convenient when there i3 a 

 slackness of other work, and there are few places where drain- 



