460 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE A.ND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ December 18, 1866, 



of fronds 1 foot 11 iuehes. This is the deepest yellow of all 

 the Gymnogrammas, and is of a more compact habit than the 

 others. 



Pteris cretica albo-lineata, 3 feet 7 inches across, length of 

 Fronds 2 feet 5 inches. This is a desirable variety, but, lite 

 Pteris tricolor, it is liable to be attacked by a brown scale, which 

 fastens on the old fronds, and has to be cleared off by washing 

 them with a sponge and water at 85°. 



Pteris scaberula, breadth across 4 feet, length of fronds 

 1 foot 6 inches. This is a very pretty little Fern, but if there 

 are any thrips in the house they will surely find it out, as, 

 indeed, they will almost the whole of the Ferns, except the 

 Gymnogrammas, which no insect seems to attack. The readiest 

 way to destroy thrips is by fumigating with tobacco. 



Adiantum macrophyllum, 4 feet 4 inches across, length of 

 fronds 2 feet. 



Adiantum colpodes, 2 feet 11 inches across, length of fronds 

 1 foot 3 inches. This is a very useful Fern in the way of 

 A. cuneatum, but the fronds are tinged with red like A. tinctum. 

 It does well in a greenhouse temperature, and is easily' propa- 

 gated by division. 



Adiantum venosum. This is of the most beautiful green of 

 all, but the fronds are very tender. It requires a stove tempe- 

 rature. 



Adiantum farleyense. A very fine Fern, which seems to be 

 of free growth, 



Adiantum tinctum. A pretty sort, but a bad grower. 

 Adiantum chilense. Also a bad grower. 

 Gymnogramma peruviana argyrophy 11a. A very fine silvery- 

 leaved variety which makes a large specimen. 

 Gymnogramma tartarea and ehrysophylki. 

 Blechnum brasiliente and corcovadense. 

 Adiantum cuneatum. 

 Platycerium alcicorne and grande. 



The last two may bo grown on blocks , the former will suc- 

 ceed in a greenhouse temperature. 

 Lygodium scandens. A climbing Fern. 

 Nothoehla?na nivea. 



Todea pellucida requires a moist atmosphere, and is more 

 suitable for a case than a common stove temperature. 



I am well aware that a great many more may be added to the 

 above list of good distinct exotic Ferns, but these are all 1 

 have had experience with that are worth general cultivation. 

 To persons who can only grow a limited number such a list will 

 be, useful ; and if the few remarks which I have made on their 

 treatment be of any service to those who have not had so much 

 experience as myself, I shall be amply rewarded. — J. Douglas, 

 Lo.rfm-d Hall. 



VINE-BORDERS. 



With respect to arches, or, as we sometimes find, small 

 openings, to let the rootlets out from the inside to the out- 

 side border, I question if it would not be better to build 

 straight upright pillars, say 3 by 2 feet at every o or 8 feet, and 

 then to place a good block of timber at the top. If we con 

 sider a Vine growing in a pot, would it not be better to knock 

 the bottom out cf the pot, and place it in a pan of good rich 

 compost, than to let the Vine push the young rootlets through 

 the small hole at the bottom ? I mention this because some 

 gardeners seem to think it matters little whether the arch it 

 big or little, if only there is one. 



Supposing that the Vines grown by " Vitis " were to show 

 signs of sickness after being planted two or three years, it would 

 take three more years to lift them and prepare the border, and 

 bring them into a good fruiting condition. — J. Gore, Aigburth. 



V oi ■:: correspondent "Vitis" has tempted me to support 

 Mr. John Wills in all that he has said relative to the making 

 of Vine-borders. 



I consider, from my experience, that Vine-borders ought to 

 be 3 feet deep below the level of the surrounding ground, and 

 should be raised 2 or even 3 feet next to the house, and 

 fall gently at the sides to 1 or 2 feet. I think that on a 

 span-roofed house running due north and south the sun would 

 have great influence during the summer months, and that 

 in the autumn and winter, by a covering of boards, the heavy 

 rains would run off the border better ; for I do not like from a 

 new Vine-border to have all the fertilising substances washed 

 amongst the drainage. The compost I recommend is formed 

 in these proportions : — Twenty cartloads of maiden loam from 

 an old pasture (brown turfy loam I like the best), two cartloads 

 Of thoroughly decayed manure, horse and cow, in equal parts, 

 two cartloads of oyster-shells, and two cartloads of rough bones, 

 with half a load of one-inch bones ; the whole to be turned over 

 three times a-fortnight, so as to be thoroughly incorporated. 

 I consider this sufficient, with the mixing the materials receive 

 during the process of wheeling to where the border is being 

 formed. 



The bottom of the border, I think, would be better if con- 

 creted in a gentle slope from the house, as recommended by 

 Mr. G. Abbey for his pits for wintering bedding plants. On 

 the top of this concrete — I mean only to concrete the outside 

 border — place 1 foot of rough stones and brickbats, inclining to 

 rather small stones towards the top. On these place 6 inches 

 of rough bones and oyster-shells in equal parts, a good strong 

 sod with the grass downwards, and we will say all is ready for 

 receiving the compost. 



PEAR CULTURE. 



(Continued from page 443.) 

 Planting. — The best time to plant Pear trees, whether on 

 the Pear or Quince stock, is when the foliage has partly or 

 wholly fallen, or in November. The distance at which I prefer 

 to plant them is 6 feet apart every way, though it may be reduced 

 to 4 feet. I like the trees to be 6 feet apart, as when planted 

 more closely the foliage shades the ground too much to 

 render their culture successful where the climate is cold, and 

 the soil adverse ; the absorption of heat by the earth, and its 

 subsequent radiation, being all-important. I find, also, that 

 close planting has a tendency to encourage growth rather than 

 fertility ; for trees, to be fruitful, require all the light we can 

 give them. Another objection which I have to close planting 

 is that the trees soon become too crowded, and however well 

 pinched and frequently lifted, require thinning. I do not wish 

 it to be understood that I mean 4 feet apart is too close to plant 

 iiu.-h and pyramid Pear trees on Quince, or even Pear stooks, 

 but unless there be spare ground to plant thinnings, I think 

 that distance should be increased, so that the trees may be 

 planted at the distances at which they are to remain. Those 

 who can afford room for thinnings may plant 4 feet apart, at 

 which distance the trees will not be crowded for three or four 

 and those not having spare ground may plant them at 

 the distances at which they are to remain. In most gardens 

 there is, in addition to a walk all round, one through the 

 centre, dividing the area into two parts, or cross walks divid- 

 ing it into quarters. Now, I take advantage of the walks all 

 round to plant, on the opposite side of the walk to that on 

 which the wall is situated, a row of pyramid and bush fruit 

 trees. These are planted 3 feet from the walk on a six-feet 

 border, and at G feet apart. The trees cannot under any cir- 

 cumstances shade anything but the six-feet border and the 

 walk ; the idea which some entertain that they shade the fruit 

 border on the opposite side of the walk is erroneous, unless 

 they are allowed to attain dimensions more suited to orchard 

 trees, which is by no means uncommon. A bush or a pyramid 

 should be no higher than that all its wants can be supplied 

 without stepping off the ground, and one li feet in diameter at 

 its base, and 6 or 7 feet high, will produce as much fruit as a 

 large straggling tree. 



Where there are cross walks a 12-feat border may be formed 

 on each side, and two rows of trees planted in quincunx order 

 in each border. The effect of these trees is highly pleasing, 

 both when they are in blossom and when loaded with fruit ; 

 for Pears on the Quince, and Apples on the Paradise stock, are 

 usually higher coloured and larger if well fed. 



At planting, if the soil is not rich, that the trees may 

 start vigorously, a barrowful of rich soil should be given to 

 each. Equal parts of turfy loam and well-rotted manure, well 

 mixed, constitute a gcod compost for the purpose. Holes 

 9 feet square should be dug, and of such a depth that the stem 

 will not only be as deep in the soil as it was before, but so that 

 the union of the stock and scion will be covered to the depth of 

 3 inches. This applies to trees on the Quince stock, and to 

 those on the Pear which have been worked near the surface, 

 and this th< ; . hould be ; but, if they have been worked high, 

 do not plant mere deeply than 3 inches above the highest 

 fibres, for no good results from burying the fibres. I find that 

 the Quince roots so near the surface that it is desirable to en- 

 tirely cover the stock with soil. After placing a little fresh 

 soil at the bottom of the hole, put in the tree, having pre- 

 viously cut in any thick roots to within a foot of their base, 

 leaving the fibres untouched, and in filling in around the tree 



