January 2, 1860. ] 



JOURNAL OF HOETICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GABDENEK. 



operations in progress, wben chance took me that way, have 

 never been forgotten. They have been a never-failing guide to 

 me ever since I have been capable of thinking for myself ; and 

 whenever anything in the varied practice of the garden in con- 

 nection with fruit trees engaged my attention, what I saw when 

 a boy comes fresh before my mind. 



The sort of land which the Messrs. Dean selected for their 

 new plantations was a piece of old pasture, which, I may remark, 

 in that neighbourhood is deep, rich, and very favourable for the 

 cultivation of the Apple. The laud, after being weU manured, 

 was dug a good spit deep, turning the grass all to the bottom. 

 The young stocks were then planted about 15 or 18 inches 

 apartin the rows, and 3 feet between the rows. This operation 

 was generally performed early in October, and the stocks would 

 be well estabhshed by the following March, when they were 

 grafted close to the ground. Diu-ing the foUowing season they 

 would throw up strong shoots, and strong posts were then 

 driven in at intervals up the row, stout strings fastened to 

 them, and to these the young shoots were tied, so as to pre- 

 vent the*r being injured by wind, &c. In the autumn after 

 being pruned, a large quantity of furze was spread all over the 

 ground, covering the young trees to a depth of 2 feet or more 

 up their stems. They were then cut back to fi feet C inches in 

 height. At this height from the ground the heads were formed, 

 the stem being kept clear of all shoots ; and in two years from 

 this time the trees were perfect models, and tit for the orchards. 

 By this time, too, the fm-ze had become completely decayed, 

 and most of it was appropriated by the thousands of small 

 fibrous roots which the tree had been induced by the furze to 

 emit from its collar. The tem'.ency of the tree to send its roots 

 deep down into the soil was thus prevented ; and the genial 

 moisture kept on the surface by the furze, and the warmth of 

 the atmospiiere above, all had a tendency to attract the roots 

 upwards. When the trees were taken up they presented a per- 

 fect mass of beautiful roots, not one strong tap root was there 

 to be seen. This will illustrate the advantages to be gained by 

 mulching fruit trees with furze. 



In the removal and planting of trees of any kind, care must 

 be taken — 



1st, To keep at a proper distance from the tree when digging 

 around it. If it is a large tree that has to bo removed, it is 

 necessary to dig a trench about 2 feet wide, and 2 feet deep, 

 more or less, according to the depth of the roots, and about 

 4 feet from the bole ot the tree all round. The soil should 

 then be regularly but carefully worked out from amongst the 

 roots with a fork, and the roots tied up as the operation is 

 carried on. As the roots are placed out of the way the soil 

 must be thrown out of the trench. This must be continued 

 till the roots have all been secui'ed, and enough soil taken 

 away to allow of the tree being removed, but on no account 

 should it be twisted about before the roots have all been pro- 

 perly loosened. If these have been carefully preserved from 

 injury there is no necessity for removing a large quantity of 

 soil with the tree; the attempt to do this often causes very 

 serious injury, for the weight becomes unmanageable, and the 

 tree is often put down after scuffling along with it a few j'ards, 

 sometimes not verj- easily. By the time the tree reaches its 

 destination most of the soil will have been shaken from the 

 roots, and these will have been very much damaged, which is a 

 loss, and a great drawback. 



2nd, The proper time for removing fruit trees, such as Apples, 

 Pears, Peaches, Plums, Nectarines, itc, when it can be done 

 without injury to the crop of fruit which the trees may have 

 on them at the time, is before the sap beg ns to recede. This 

 will be the first week in October, or they may be removed in 

 the third week of September, if the weather is not too dry at 

 the time; and even if this should be case, if some green branches 

 of any kind are stuck in and around the trees, and the syringe 

 freely used about them two or three tunes daily, they will 

 suffer no injury. 



3rd, I now come to one of the most important points in 

 connection with the planting of the tree. Never dig a deep 

 hole to plant it in, but rather plant it on the surface after 

 breaking this up with a spade. After the tree has been placed 

 in the position it is to occupy, the roots should be carefully 

 straightened out all round, and any that may have been in- 

 jured should be shortened back with a sharp knife ; some fine 

 soil should be at hand, this should be sprinkled evenly amongst 

 the roots bo that all the small apertures may be well filled up, 

 using plenty of water at the same time, and the tree should be 

 frequently moved to and fro until the roots have become firmly 

 imbedded in the soil. A bank should then be thrown up just at 



the extremity of the roots, to keep the water from running 

 away from the tree ; this should be on a level with the collar, 

 or if it is a Uttle higher it will be no worse. Several potsfnl of 

 water may then be thrown about the tree, and holes made from 

 the surface down amongst the roots. The water will by these 

 means settle the soil nicely about the roots ; more fine boU 

 and water should then be put round, and the water standing 

 on the smface will soon show when all the vacant spaces about 

 the roots are filled xip. The tree should then be left, and 

 after the next to be removed has undergone a similar process 

 the water will have gradually soaked away through the soil, 

 leaving the latter well settled about the roots. More soil should 

 then be banked up around the tree, which must also be well 

 secured to prevent its being blown about by high winds. 



For securing large trees I generally drive four strong stakes 

 into the ground, east, w-est, north, and south, and after they 

 have been firmly driven in I fasten the trees to them ; round 

 the stem, however, must be put a good stout collar made 

 of some soft material, such as an old guano bag, in order 

 to prevent the ropes from injuring the bark. Some of the 

 branches should also be cut out if the tree is large, so that the 

 roots may not have too much work to do. It all go on well 

 these will soon be at work, and the tree will draw sufficient 

 nourishment from them to enable it to stand the winter with- 

 out suffering any iU effects from its removal. If it is well 

 mulched so that the frost cannot penetrate so deep as its roots, 

 they will be active aU through the winter. One of the gi-eat 

 advantages to be gained by removing fruit trees in this way is, 

 that there is no fear of sacrificing the crop of fruit. In the 

 following year, if they are carefully managed, they will produce 

 fruit nearly if not quite as fine as they would have done had 

 they not been moved. 



One of the great advantages gained by planting on the surface 

 is this : The sun has more power on the roots ; these con- 

 sequently become well ripened, and the tree, instead of drawing 

 up more sap than it can make use of at once, draws it gradu- 

 ally, and equally distributes it to its numerous branches, so 

 that it performs its functions with greater regularity. The tree 

 also grows less luxuriantly, and consequently matures both root 

 and branch as it grows ; all the small branches and spurs are 

 covered with fruit-buds ; and instead of the roots going down 

 they will be spreading near the surface. When the tree is 

 planted in a hole made for it to a depth of perhaps 2 feet or 

 more (and in many cases the hole is made even deeper than 

 that), a foot or more of good soil is probably put into the 

 bottom of the hole ; but this is the worst plan that could be 

 adopted, because it encourages the roots downwards. The first 

 roots that take hold of the good soil in the bottom of the hole 

 soon become tap roots, then away they strike still further down 

 into the clay, or whatever the bottom is composed of. These 

 roots throw up sap faster than the tree can dispose of it : hence 

 the long unripeued shoots which must yearly be cut away, 

 gi-adualiy hastening the tree to its decay. We see it year after 

 year maldng rapid growth, but no fruit is produced. After a 

 time the tree decays, and is replaced by another, which in the 

 course of time follows in its wake. — J. Wills. 



FORCED RHUBARB ON CHRISTMAS-DAY. 



Havixg observed some remarks made by Mr. Fish in yonr 

 Journal, at page 508, respecting Ehubarb-forciiig, I wish to 

 state my experience in forcing this vegetable. 



In the first place, then, I may say that I sent in two good 

 dishes on the 22nd inst., and had some ready four or five days 

 previous to that, about which time, I presume, Mr. Fish wrote 

 his article, so that, I think, mine must have been ready a week 

 before his. I have had plenty of it since. The roots, which are 

 three or four years old, were transplanted into rich soil last 

 March fthey had been previously grown in poor soil), and were 

 taken into the Mushroom-house on the 25th of November, the 

 temperature being from 60° to 65°. Some light rich soil was 

 put round them, and they were syringed daily, which caused 

 them to commence gi-owing at once. 



I have formerly endeavoured to have Ehnbarb at Christmas 

 by introducing it into a temperature of 65°, afterwards gra- 

 dually increasing the heat to 75" and 80°, but with somewhat 

 indifferent success. I therefore conclude that Rhubarb can be 

 accelerated with a greater degree of certainty with a uniform 

 temperature of from 60° to 65° than by subjecting it to one 10° 

 or 15° higher ; indeed, I think that the temperature above recom- 

 mended and darkness are two most essential points in Ehubarb 



