January IC, 1800. ] 



JOUEXAL OF HORTICULTUEE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEK. 



47 



The large tvoo of Ginkgo bilnba, preserved from the fire tliut 

 burned down the buildings last year, still retained the attraetions 

 it had when seen on ray first visit. When better known -with 

 us, the Ginkgo, as an ornamental ti-ce, will meet with a more ex- 

 tended cultivation than it now receives. — T. Hogg. — [Amincaii 

 Oardener's Moutkbj.) 



PAIXTING WOOD. 



The preservation of wood by paint is a matter of great im- 

 portance to all who have glass houses. The best way of apply- 

 ing paint, as aJso the materials of which it is composed, are 

 generally left to the painter, who is supposed to uuderstaud 

 his own trade ; the price of the work, the number of coats, and 

 the colour to be employed, are generally matters of discussion ; 

 the quality of the ingredients is taken for granted. Are those 

 wise who pay for a given surface to be painted without know- 

 ing what kind of paint is likely to be employed ? From my 

 own experience I think not. The majority of painters know- 

 little of the nature of pigments, and are as little able to j udge 

 of the quality of what they jjurchase as those who employ them. 

 White pamt ought to be carbonate of lead ; what it often is it 

 would be difficult to say. I have seen it rub off like a coat of 

 whitewash. 



But suppose wo obtain really good paint, and oil of the best 

 quality, we still arc not safe. Something to cause the paint to 

 di"y quiclUy is almost a necessity, particularly for outside work, 

 and the best paint may be spoilt. The protoxide of lead (li- 

 tharge) is an excellent diyer for dark colours ; the acetate of 

 lead (sugar of lead) is equally good for light colours ; but some 

 stuff called patent dryers is generally used. What is this ? 

 Kequiring no grinding, easily mixed, drying readily, it appears 

 just what the painters want, but v.'hat is its effect ? Have you 

 ever seen an old oil painting cracked in all directions like a 

 piece of scored pork ;• If you ask an artist the cause he will 

 perhaps tell you " Oh that man's pictures all crack, he used 

 too much wax in his colours." Just the same effect is seen in 

 almost all tlie common painting now. Ask the painter the 

 reason, and he will tell you it is the sun on the varnish. Show 

 him the paint is cracked down to the wood, and, therefore, it 

 cannot bo the vaniish. Show him a door v.hich faces the 

 north, and, therefore, it cannot be the sun, and he will pro- 

 bably tell yoit he really cannot say what is the reason. My 

 own opinion is these patent dryers are the cause, and the 

 effect is in exact proportion to the amount used. Put a double 

 or treble dose in your paint and see if it is not so. Whether I 

 am light or w^rong it may do good to call attention to the sub- 

 ject. — J. E. Pearsox, Chilicell. 



Legacy to thk G.vr.PEXEEs' Eoy.>.l Bexevolext Ixstitutiox. 

 — I beg to apprise you of the death of Mr. Henry Scott on the 

 -5th inst. lie was for very many years gardener to Wynn Ellis, 

 Esq., of Ponsbourno Park, Hertford. He was a subscriber 

 to this Society since 1813, and, by his will, has left a legacy to 

 this institution of £'21)0. This is certainly a noble example, 

 and needs no comment from me. — Edward E. Cuilek, Secretary. 



CoLLVER tfc EoRERTS' ToBAcco TisscE. — This patented pre- 

 paration for fumigating is used the same as tobacco or tobacco 

 paper. Mr. Eyles says that " it is decidedly preferable to the 

 paper in common use," and other head gardeners bear testi- 

 mony to its efficacy as a destroyer of the thrips and green fly. 



THE MODERN PEACH-PRUNER.— No. 20. 



OPXHARD-HOUSE PEQXING ASD TEAINIXG. 



BcsH trees in pots have apparently the advantage of being 

 easy of formation ; but, though readily kept in shape for a 

 season or two after potting, they are apt to be thrown out of a 

 true balance by any strong vertical shoot which may be over- 

 looked. It is. therefore, on the whole, safer to induce the 

 bush tree to assume some more regiUar shape, such as the 

 pyramidal. In this case we may, by extra width at the base, 

 cause the tree to look much like an ordinary bush, whilst we 

 retain the advantage of having a main central stem from 

 which the branches can be more symmetrically developed 

 than if the tree divided into two or three strong branches at the 



outset. By keejiing the top of this low pyramid very little in 

 advance, and allowing the base to extend freely beyond the 

 pot, this form assumes an aspect different from the lofty 

 pyramid with its comparatively slender base. 



^Vhen, however, the bush form is retained, it is imperatively 

 necessarj- to keep the centre open to the influences of sunshine 

 and ail-. In this case, also, regularity of form is not only more 

 pleasing to the eye, but conduces to the duration as well as to 

 the productiveness of the tree. It is necessary, generally, to 

 peg do«-n the leading branches so as to induce the tree to form 

 the U or goblet shape, and also to keep the branches at proper 

 iutei-vals by means of slender rods. One season of neglect is 

 enough to spoil the whole appearance of any bush tree ; indeed, 

 it is rare we sec any very handsome specimens after a certain 

 age. Half-standards are much easier to keep in form. 



Generally speaking, after a maiden tree has been headed 

 down to six or seven buds (au odd number being preferable), 

 the shoots proceeding from these buds should be trained care- 

 fully from the outset, and regularly stopped to equalise their 

 growth. Should the tree not put forth a sufficient number of 

 shoots, cut off the ends of those formed early in .lune, and 

 from their points second growths will spring from which the 

 requisite number can be selected to shape the tree. This is 

 for ordinary bushes ; possibly for U-shaped trees where the 

 shoots are strong, it wovild be preferable to cut them back in 

 May so as to induce them to fork lower down. The equalising 

 of the whole form is to be continually attended to by stopping 

 any shoot which protrudes. By cutting to a bud which points 

 outwards the centre is kept more open in any ease. Any 

 laterals, later in the season, on the upper jjortions, can be 

 slightly equalised as shown in Ko. \i. 



At the October pruning the tree is formed according to the 

 shape decided on. Goblet-shaped trees, with long vertically 

 inclined shoots — i. c, branches in futiu-e, should have these 

 left longer and not much shortened-in. Perhaps one-foui-th 

 is sufficient, generally speaking, to suppress now. A few 

 laterals may thus be retained within these dimensions, and 

 these should be cut-in to two buds. Low pyramids -will have 

 to be cut back to a convenient group of triple buds, or to some 

 single wood-bud looking outwards. Tall pyramids are treated 

 in much the si-^me |way. The first winter-regulation is im- 

 portant for the beauty of the tree. In pyramids our greatest 

 attention is needed to establish the lower portions from the 

 commencement, and never to allow these to langi-ish, nor to 

 bear too early. 



During the ensuing sxtmmcr the side-shoots are to be stopped 

 at three leaves, &c., as before directed in No. 18, for potted 

 trees. It the summer-stopping of this, the second, season of 

 the tree being in a pot, has been regularly done at the winter 

 regulation, the tree will begin to assume a certain definite 

 shape, ami the pruner wiU be less jsuzzled than in dealing with 

 more irregular forms. 



It is always better to avoid cutting do-^-n potted trees, and 

 rather to rest them for a season, by removing the fruit and re- 

 modelling them. 'Whenever, however, a tree resists this care, 

 it will be found that it suffers from some serious cause. The 

 roots should bo carefully examined, and if unhealthy the tree 

 should be at once removed and another young one brought 

 forward from the reserved stock. A few trees thus reserved 

 will save much annoj-auce. Overcrowding is a fertile cause of 

 the trees becoming shapeless and unproductive. In general, 

 also, sufficient attention is not given to selecting handsome 

 and regular shapes for potted trees. 



The advice of some experienced person is of great use in 

 the disposition of the trees in an orchard-house. The variety 

 of forms and climates precludes any general rule in this matter, 

 and, doubtless, we have all very much to learn in this respect. 

 We have started from a good and tried basis, however, and 

 may experimentalise without serious risk. The mere beginner, 

 however, had better be cautious, and secure the soundest advice 

 ! within his reach ; at least, in such important points as the best 

 shape and situation for his new house, and the selection and 

 disposition of the trees within it. 



If the summer stopping of the shoots be both easy to 

 describe and to perform, the same cannot be said of the winter 

 pruning. In this case there is no better way than to have 

 recourse to our classification of the Peach shoots, and to state 

 in what respect the winter pruning of each differs. 



Peach trees in pots are stopped at three leaves, as soon as 

 five are formed ; and second growths at two leaves, as soon as 

 three are formed ; third growths generally to one more leaf, 

 unless autumn gi-owth be desirable to relieve the tree. (See, 



