64 Journal of A(/iicuUure, Victoria. [10 Jan., 1919. 



Orchard. — Spray for codlin moth. Search out and destroy all larvae. Cultivate 

 the surface where necessary and irrigate where necessary, paying particular atten- 

 tion to young trees. Fumigate evergreen trees for scale. Continue budding. 



Flower Garden. — Cultivate the surface and water tlioroughly during hot 

 weather. Summer-prune roses by thinning out the weak wood and cutting back 

 lightly the strong shoots. Thin out and disbud dahlias and chrysanthemums. 

 Layer carnations. Plant a few bulbs for early blooms. Sow seeds of perennial 

 and hardy annual plants. 



Vegetable Garden. — Continue to plant out seedlings from the seed-beds. Sow 

 seeds of cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, peas, turnip, and French beans. Keep all 

 vacant plots well dug. 



Vineyard. — February is the best month for the " Yema " or Summer bud graft 

 (see journal for February, 1917). Select scion-bearing vines; mark with oil 

 paint those conspicuous for quality and quantity of fruit, regular setting and 

 even maturity. 



Given suitable climatic conditions, downy mildew may show up in January 

 or February. If heavy rains fall the vines should again be sprayed with Bor- 

 deaux mixture. 



Sulphur again, if oidium is prevalent, but avoid applying sulphur to wine 

 grapes too short a time before gathering. 



Cellars. — Prepare all plant and casks for the coming vintage. An ounce of 

 bisulphite of potash, or a couple of fluid ounces of bisulphite of soda solution, to 

 each bucket of water used to swell press platforms, tubs, &c., will help to keep 

 it sweet. Keep cellars as cool as possible. Complete all manipulations so as to 

 avoid handling older wines during vintage. 



THE BUDDING OF FRUIT TREES. 



Young trees, or old trees that have been previously cut down in pre- 

 paration for budding, may be worked towards the end of this month. 

 It is advisable to select dull, cool weather for the operation, so that the 

 sap may run more freely, and that atmospheric conditions may not have 

 too drying an effect on the bud. The operation of budding is a very 

 simple one, and is easily performed. To gain a successful end, the sap 

 should be flowing freely, so that when the cuts are made the bark should 

 " lift " or " run " easily, and without any clinging or tearing of the 

 fibres, and it should separate freely from the wood. The bud selected 

 should be firm and well matured, and should show no signs of premature 

 growth whatever. It should be cut from the scion with a shallow cut, 

 and if any Avood be left in the cutting it should be taken out of the bud. 

 A smooth, clean spot should be selected on the bark of the stock, and a 

 T-shaped cut made, the vertical cut being longer than the horizontal 

 one. The bark at the point where the cuts meet should be raised, and 

 the bud inserted between the bark and the wood of the stock. The bud 

 should be gently pressed down into position, and then bound with soft 

 twine, string, or raffia. If the bud be too long for the cut, the top may 

 be cut off level by means of a horizontal cut. With practice, it will soon 

 become possible "to take the buds so that they will need neither cutting 

 nor trimming. 



After two or three weeks the buds should be examined to see if they 

 have " taken," that is, if the bud has united thoroughly to the stock. 

 When this occurs, the tie may be cut. If a growth be desired at once, 

 all wood above the bud may be cut off some short distance above the 

 bud, so as, to prevent any bark splitting, and consequent loss of the bud, 

 and so as to throw the bud out at a fair angle. Ultimately this should 

 be properly trimmed. 



If desired, the bud may be left dormant throughout the autumn and 

 winter till spring. In this case, the branch should not be cut off, but 

 left on till the usual winter pruning. 



