Jnly 8, 1860. ] 



JOUBNAL OP HOBTICULTDKE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



31 



robust, owiag to the dry weather lately. There was httle 

 necessity for shortening the points of the leaves, as under such 

 circumstances when left untouched they root all the sooner, 

 if shading and air-giving be properly attended to. 



The second matter was watering, and chiefly the Calceolarias 

 and the Verbenas. The different-coloured Scarlet Pelargoniums 

 had but little water given, as the earth about them was moist 

 beneath, not warm en&ugh to promote rapid growth and free 

 blooming, and watering would if anything have made the 

 ground colder. We have nowhere as yet seen well-bloomed 

 beds of Scarlet Pelargoniums out of doors, except where they 

 had been turned out as good flowering plants. A few sunny 

 days will enable them to overtake the Calceolarias that delight 

 in a moister and cooler soil. 



To keep the ground cool and moist about them we have 

 mulched, with the rotten dung referred to, the most of our 

 Calceolarias, having a vivid recollection of the dryness and the 

 heat of the last summer. This we did by breaking up the manure 

 rather finely with the points of a fork, and spreading it thinly 

 by the hand, after being laid in openings in small spadesful. 

 If the season threatens to be dry, we shall serve Pelargoniums 

 in the same way when once the ground is more heated. What 

 will come to the outside of beds and borders will pass through an 

 inch sieve. This plan is good for saving watering. — B.F. 



COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— July 7. 



Supply and demand are abont balanced as regards English produce, 

 foreign produce is somewhat in excess of our requirements, and inferior" 

 in quality. There have been large arrivals of Potatoes, both by rail and 

 water. Old ones are now neglected ; the new meet with a fair demand. 



FRUIT. 



d 



Apples 3^ sieve 



Apricots doz. 



Cherries lb. 



Chestnuts bushel 



Currants % sieve 



Black do. 



Figs doz. 



FUberts lb. 



Cobs Ih. 



Gooseberries . . quart 

 Grapes, Hothouse . lb. 

 Lemons 100 



d. s. 

 too 

 3 





 

 1 

 

 6 

 

 

 

 6 

 6 

 



Melons each 



Nectarines doz. 



Oranges 100 



Peaches doz. 12 



Pears (dessert) . . doz. 



Pine Apples lb. 



Plums J^ sieve 



Quinces doz. 



Raspberries lb. 



Strawberries .... lb. 



Walnuts bushel 10 



do 100 



Artichokes doz. 



Asparagus 100 



Beans, Kidney . . 100 



Beet, Red doz. 



Broccoli bundle 



Brns. Sprouts ^j sieve 



Cabbage doz. 



Capsicums 100 



Carrots bunch 



Caoliflower doz. 



C3lery bundle 



Cucumbers .... each 



Endive doz. 



Fennel bunch 



Garlic lb. 



Herbs bunch 



Horseradish ..bundle 



VEGETABLES, 

 d. s. d I 



3 

 3 



Leeks bunch 



6 Lettuce score 



D \ Mushrooms.. ., pottle 

 Mustd.& Cres8,punnet 

 Onions, .doz. bunches 



Parsley sieve 



Parsnips doz. 



Peas quart 



Potatoes bushel 



Kidney ditto 



Radishes doz.bunches 



Rhubarb bundle 



Shallots lb. 



Spinach bushel 



J Tomatoes doz. 



I Turnips bunch 



5 Veget. Marrows.. doz. 





 

 

 

 

 

 

 2 

 1 6 

 



TRADE CATALOGUE RECERT^D. 



J. J. De Beucher, Rue Carnot, 105-107, Antwerp. — Descrip- 

 tions of New Seedling Variegated Zonal Pelargoniums, With 

 Coloured Plate. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



•«• We request tbat no one will write privately to the depart- 

 mental writers of the " Journal of Horticulture, Cottage 

 Gardener, and Country Gentleman." By so doing they 

 are subjected to unjustifiable trouble and expense. All 

 communications should therefore be addressed solely to 

 The Editors of the Journal of Horticulture, tf-c, 171, Fleet 

 Street, London, E.G. 



We also request that correspondents will not mis up on the 

 flame sheet questions relating to Gardening and those on 

 Poultry and Bee subjects, if they expect to get them an- 

 swered promptly and conveniently, but write them on 

 separate communications. Also never to send more than 

 two or three questions at once. 



N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered until next 

 week 



Books {A Beginner in Botony).— Henfrey's *' Rudiments of Botany." 

 Ptretrbcms (D. H.).— They will be fully treated of in an early number. 



Select Roses for Covering Arches and Pillars (iC. M. K.).~ 

 " * Which are the beat eight Roses for covering wire arches and for 

 pillars?' is a question somewhat vague. Nothing is said as to whether 

 summer Roses or autumnal ones are required, I presume autumnals are 

 desired. I should select Irom the following:— Acidalie, the I'.ed Bengal, 

 Gloire de Dijon, Celine Forestier, Baronne Prevost, Triomphe de Rennes, 

 Due de Gazes, Anna Alexieff. and Ophirie. With regard to the stock, I 

 think the Manetti is the best for climbers.—W. F. Radcliffe." 



Aphides on Roses (.4 Lady in Cftf«/(/rf).— Syringe the trees with 

 tobacco water made by pouring at the rate of a gallon of boiling water on 

 each"'2 ozs. of tobacco, letting it cool, and then straining. Mulch over the 

 roots of the trees, and keep them well watered in dry weather. Repeat 

 the syringing as often as an aphis is found on the Roses. 



Roses to Bloom in January (H. M. A'.).— It is very difficult to have 

 Roses in flower at that season. Last year's cuttings would be most suit- 

 able. They should be taken up now with good balls, pottfd, placed in a 

 cold frame for about ten days and shaded, keeping moist ; afterwards 

 expose them fully, placing them in a warm situation, and pinching off all 

 flower buds. The old plants should be trented in the same way, setting 

 them near a south wall, and keeping them rather dry at tbe roots, so thai 

 the leaves may fall, while the shoots are prevented from shrivelling. In 

 that position they should remain for six weeks ; then repot them in a 

 compnst of two parts turfy loam, one part old cow dung, or well-reduced 

 manure, and one part leaf mould, with one-sixth part of sharp sand. They 

 should be kept rather dry for a fortnight, then prune them, and place in 

 a cold pit or frame, setting the pots on coal ashes. They onght to be 

 sprinkled with water twice a-day and kept rather close, but give air 

 enough to keep the temperature from rising above 75-. When they have 

 shoots an inch long admit air day and night, keep them well supplied 

 with water, and frequently sprinkle their tops. They may remain in the 

 pit or frame until the nights become frosty, and even after that if pro- 

 tection from frost be given, but when that cannot be afi'orded they ehould 

 be removed to a house having a night temperature of from 45- to 50^, and 

 55° by day, with a ri^e of 10'' or 15*^ from sun heat. To bloom the plants 

 a night temperature of from 50"^ to 55^ will be required. They cannot 

 have too light and airy a position, and the aphis must be destroyed by 

 fumigation with tobacco, and mildew by dusting with flowers of sulphur. 

 As your plants are not prepared, we have Httle hope of your success, but 

 you can, nevertheless, try, starting half the plants as above, and the otl?er 

 half early in November, giving for the first fortnight a night temperattire 

 of 45^, and then increasing it to between 50 and 55- in another fortnight, 

 at which temperature keep the plants until they come into bloom. 



Gardes Wall [Su.?sex).—'The wall should be 12 feet high above the 

 ground line, as that height is tlic most suitable for the mnjority of fruit 

 trees. We consider it very desirable to have the walls wired, but the 

 wires ought to be so fixed that they will not be farther from the wall than 

 three-quarters of an inch, and better if only half an inch. The foliage 

 does not appear to hke the current between the wires and the wall, and 

 the nearer the wires are to the wall the better, so long as a sufficient 

 space is left for passing the tying material between the wires and the wall. 

 No. 10 galvanised wire is best, and for Peach and Apricot trees the wires 

 should be 3^ inches apart, or in every course of bricks ; whilst for Plum, 

 Cherry, and Pear trees fan-trained, the wires may be 6 inches apart ; for 

 Pear trees trained horizontally they should be 1 foot apart. 



Heating a Small Greenhouse {S.E.A.A.].—'We refer again to your 

 case, page 431, and we advised a brick stove because the place is small. 

 We had no idea of your having a flue. A small iion stove, costing with 

 smoke piping from 50s. to 60s., would answer the same purpose, but the 

 heat is not so kindly as from a brick stove. The brick we merely sub- 

 stitute for the iron. If you could put the stove in the middle of the 

 north side, all the better ; if not, it will do at the north coi-ner marked x . 

 The brick stove should be 28 inches square, and from 3^ feet in height. 

 If the width in the corner were rather too much for the narrow house, 

 you could borrow a piece from the wall. I*ay out the square named on 

 the floor with brick on bed. In the centre of this, in front, fix a close- 

 fitting ashpit door. Mark out a space 7 inches wide, and to within 

 10 inches of the opposite side ; that will be the base of the ashpit. 

 Build all round untiJ you rise a little higher than your ashpit door, and 

 place bars across for the bottom of the fireplace, which is to be 8 inches 

 wide and 8 inches deep, formed of fire bricks, or four lumps of fire clay. 

 Build up with brick to the necessary height, and then fix the furnace 

 door— a double one ; use brickwork for the necessary height above, and 

 cover at top with a thick piece of iron or a slab of stone, and in either 

 case have an evaporating pan. Three or 4 inches from the top have a 

 4-inch pipe to go through the back wall, and rise outside as a chimney. 

 With close-fitting furnace doors, nothing more will be needed ; but if the 

 ashpit door cannot be well regulated, a thin slab of fire clay should stand 

 a few inches in front of tbe chimney pipe, so that the smoke and heat 

 can pass by the sides instead of more directly. With a close-titting ash- 

 pit door this is not needed. The bricks should be laid in good mortar, 

 the fire bricks and lumps with fire clay. Coke or the best cinders only 

 should be used, and in cleaning and lighting, the ashes should be damped 

 previously, to prevent dust. We are presuming that the furnace and 

 ashpit doora are inside the house. With a little more labour you could 

 have these doors outside the house, by cutting out a part of your back 

 wall, and thus you would save room inside the house. In such a case, 

 however, it is well in stoves not to have the feediog door and the outlet 

 chimney on the same side. You could easily have the chimney from the 

 top or the opposite side, and take it up the back wall of the house, and so 

 out at the roof. We once had a stove which worked well, and from the 

 want of an iron plate or a flagstone we covered the top with tiles, sup* 

 ported on flat iron bars, and then with brick on bed set in fire clay. How- 

 ever you build such a stove, it should not have a fire in it for a fortnight 

 at least, as then the mortar, &.C., will be well set. Such a stove would 

 give heat enough for a house three times the size, and no other plan is 

 so cheap and simple. By feeding outside you will have no dust. What 

 we stated as to piping would be ample in your case. The rules for cal- 

 culating are very varied, and a great many circumstances must be tsiken 

 into consideration, but almost any description of house may thus be 

 calculated :^To the whole surface of glass exposed add one-third, then 

 multiply by the number of degrees the house is to be kept at above the 

 external air, the product, divided by 190, will give the quantity of piping 

 required in superficial feet. The mere number of cubic feet of air en- 

 closed, as to which you wish information, would be no guide, as a house 

 bounded by walls would be difl"erent from a house like a hand-light— 



