284 



JOUBNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ October 7. ISM. 



eaten freely of forty epecies. This is doc, perhapn, to my general (ic- 

 qnaintance with species which hnv» been loDRQsed In Enrope, nod hciico 

 I bavo Diudo no experiments npou duw epecics which had not sumo 

 ai&Bity or unalripy with tliuin. 



" For Jn*.taDce, ARaricnBcnmpeslrisond ar^'cnsis being wliolesomo, I did 

 not doubt but that A. nmygdtilimiB (a new Bpecios, cloHcly allied to A. nr- 

 venats), might he enfely'nttompled, and it has prnvod eijually ssfe and 

 palatable. Indeed, tbie may bo regarded as the safest of nit epecics for 

 gathering, aa it can bo diecrimiuatod from all othora. oven by a ctiild or 

 a blind perec n. Its taste nnd odour aro ro very like those of Peach ker- 

 nels or bitter Almondni. that iilmoet invariably the reHcnibhiuce i^ iuimo- 

 diately mentioned by thoae who Insto it crude for the lirst time. This 

 flaToor is lof-t by cooking, anloBS tbe Mushroom be undi-rdono. When 

 tborougbly cooked I cannot myself distinguish it from A. citmpestris. 

 One or two persona ba%'o expressed the opinion that they can distinguish 

 it, and that it is not quite so good. Others, again, are equally pnhilivo 

 that it is bettor. In the crude state I dotm it tho most pulatablo < I all 

 UOBbrooms, as it leaves a very grateful aftt-r-tnste upon the palate, iully 

 equal to that of Almonds. This is tho thing I sent you some years ago 

 lor cultivation, but which failed to grow. I very mucli wish it might be 

 propagated in Englcnd, so that we might ascertain whether it would 

 undergo any change <if qualities in a diff^Toot soil nnd climate. I have 

 for some time boon entertaining the suspicion that such is tho caso with 

 many of our species. Thus, ia European books tho More! is described 

 as possessing a peculiar flavour, that has given its name to the MoroUo 

 Cherry. I can detect nolhiLg of tho sort in our Morel- You speak of 

 A. ca?soreus {'Introduction to Cryptngamic IJotnny ') os being 'perhaps 

 the most delicious of all Fungi.' This grows in great quantities in our 

 Oak forests, and may be obtained by the cartload in its season ; but to my 

 taste, and that of all my family, it is tho most unpalatable of all our 

 Fangi, nor can I find many of our most pusRionate mycophagists who 

 will avow that they like it. I have tried it in almost every possible mode 

 of cookery, but without success. There is a disagreeable saline flavour 

 that we cannot remove nor overlay. 



"In the Tricboloma section, in which are several species long known 

 as edible, I did not hesitate to experiment upon any that had the odour 

 and taste of fresh flour. I began with A. frumeutaceus, not learning 

 from bo<iks whether it had been eaten in Europe. To this I subsequently 

 added three new American species beloncing to the some group. All are 

 excellent when stowed, and are especially valuable for their appearance 

 in late autumn, even during hard frosts, when other Agarics are mostly 

 oat of season. 



"Again, there seemed such a similarity of texture and habit between 

 A. CflBspitosus {Lentinus, Bork.) and A. melleus, although tbo former 

 belongs to Clitocybe, that the temptation to a trial of it was irresistible. 

 As it is found here in enormous quantities, and a single cluster often 

 contains fifty to a hundred stems, it might well be deemed a valuable 

 species in a time of scarcity. It would not bo highly esteemed where 

 other and better sorts can be had ; but it is geuerally preferred to A. mol- 

 leus. I have found this species very suitable for drying for winter use. 



** Among Boleti I ventured, in ignorance if it had ever been eaten, to 

 try B. collinitns. on account of ils close relationship with B. flavidns. I 

 ftm not particularly fond of Boleti, hut this species has been pronounced, 

 delicious by some to whom I have sent it. 



" So among the Polypores, I had no fear of harm from the use of a 

 new American species (P. poripes. Fr.), on account of its relation to 

 P, ovinus. of its texture, and its flavour. The taste of the crude speci- 

 men is like that of the best Chestnuts or Filberts. It has been compared 

 even with the Cocoa Nut, and is certainly of very agreealtle flavour. It 

 does not, however, make a superior dish for tho table, being rather too 

 dry, but it is innocent and probably nutritious. 



" Of the llerisma group of Polypores, having already tried P. frondosus, 

 confluens, and sulphurous, I ventured, after some hesitation, and with 

 more than usual caution, to test the virtues of a new American species 

 (P. Berkeleyi. Fr.), notwithstanding the intense pungency of the raw ma- 

 terial, which bites as fiercely as Lactarins piperatus. When young, and 

 before the pores are visible, the substance is quite crisp and brittle, and 

 in this state I have eaten it with impunity and with satisfaction, its 

 pungency being all dissipated by stewing. I do not, however, deem it 

 comparable with P. confluens. ^vhich is rather a favourite with me, as it 

 is with some others to whom I have introduced it. P. sulphurens is just 

 tolerable ; safe, but not to bo coveted when one can get better. When I 

 say safe, I mean not poisonous. I cannot recommend it as a diet for 

 weak stomachs, which should bo said of some other Fungi of similar 

 texture. I am here reminded of an experience I had three or four years 

 ago with this species, which would have greatly alarmed mo had it hap- 

 pened at an early date in my experiments, and which would, probably, 

 have deterred anyone unused to this kind of diet from ever indulging in 

 it again. I had a sumptuous dish of it on my supper-table, of which 

 most of my family, as well as a guest passing the night with us, par- 

 took very freely. During the ni»;ht I became exceedingly sick, and 

 was not relieved until depleted of my supper. My first thought on 

 the accession of the illness wa3 of Polypnrua sulphureus ; but as I 

 remembered that inflnmmalioa was one of the symptom? of Fungus- 

 poisoning, and I could detect no indications of this in my case, I 

 soon dismissed tbe rising fear, did not send for a doctor, nor take any 

 remedy. Others, who had partaken of the fungus more freely than 

 myself, were not at all affected; and I presume my sickness was no more 

 induced by the Polypore than by tho bread and butter I had eaten. And 

 jet, h:id I alone partaken of tho dish, or had one or two others been 

 afl'ectcd in like manner, doubtless tho niyht attack would have been very 

 confidently attributed by some to the Mus^hroom; or had this been my 

 first trial of that article, possibly I might ever after have regarded it with 

 suspicion. I learned a few days afterward'* from one of our physicians, 

 that this kind of sickness was then somewhat prevalent in the commu- 

 nity, and could bo attributed to no known cause. For the credit of this 

 species, therefore, we were fortunately able to distinguish the poU hoc 

 bom the propter hoc. 



"There are families in America that for generations have freely and 

 annually eaten Mushrooms, preserving a h'bit brouttht from Europe by 

 their ancestors. In no case have I hoard of an accidt^nt among them. 1 

 have known no instance of Mushroom -poisoning in this country, except 

 where the victims rashly ventured upon the experiment without knowing 

 one species from another. Amoug tho fnmilies above mentioned. I havo 

 not met with any whoso knowledge of Muslii-ooins extended beyond the 

 common species (A. campestris) called Pink Oill in this country. Several 

 such families Uvo near me, but not one of them was aware, until I in- 



formed thorn, that there are other edible kinds. Everythinfr but tho 

 Pink Gill, which had tho form of a Musbronm, waA to them t Toadstool 

 and poisonous. When I first sent my sou with a fine haskM of Imperials 

 (A. cusareuH), to an intelligent physician, who waa exlravn«antly fond 

 of tho common Musuriom, the bid was grcotod with the indiynant ftx- 

 clamntiou, * Bov, 1 wouldn't eat one of those thing* to mivo vour falhtr'B 

 head !' When li.ld that they were eaten at my table, he ace. pled them, 

 nt« them, nnd hii« eaten many a one since, with all (■afcly and with no 

 little relish. Sinco that time our mycophagists cat whatever 1 send them 

 without fear or suspicion. 



" 1 have interested mysclf to extend tbe knowledge of these things amonK 

 the lovers of Mushrooms, and also tbeir use among those who havo not 

 before tried them. In the latter work I am not always succesBful, on 

 account of a strong prejudice against vegetables with such eonten.ptiblo 

 name*', and on unconquLrable fear of accidents. Yet, as iu my own case, 

 curiosity often conquers these errors. When away from home I h»TO 

 freqnenilv obtained ready perau&sion from a kind hostess to havo cooked 

 a di&h of Mushrooms thiit I have found on her premises, it has rarely 

 occurred in such cases that the dish, then tasted for the fi^^t time, was 

 not declared to be delicious, or the best thing ever put in tho moutb. 

 This latter phrase was once nsod in reference to so indifferent on article 

 as A, Baliguus. Indeed, I have found several persons who class this 

 among tho most palatable species. To sach persons a dibh of f rerth UOBb- 

 rooms need seldom bo wanting,as this one can bo had every month of 

 tbe year in this latitude. I am induced to believe that tho quality ol 

 this spf cioB varies with the kind of wood it grows from, and that it is 

 better flavoured when gathered from tbo Mulberry, and ei»pecinlly from 

 the Hickory, than when taken from most other trees. Its fitucss lor tho 

 table seems also to depend much upon tlie rapidity of its growth ; those 

 which grow slowly, as is the caso with -nuio of our garden vegetables, 

 being of tougher texture and of less delicate flavour. A warm sun after 

 heavy rains brings thorn out in greatest perfoction. 



" I have several times been asked by persons eatirg Mushrooms fortno 

 first time, whether these things belontr to tho vecotable or animal king- 

 dom. There is certainly a verv noticeable resemblance in the flavour of 

 some of them to that o'f flesh^ fish, or mollusc, so that the question, bb 

 founded merely on taste, is not an unnatural one. But I was much 

 struck with its propriety when reading an article in * Eraser's Magazine' 

 a few years since, written by the late Mr. Broderip, who therein says 

 that Mushrooms contain osmazome. If this be so, it accounts both for 

 their flavour and for their value as food. Of this latter quality I had 

 become so well convinced that, during our late war, I sometimes averred, 

 and I doubt if there was much, if any, exaggeration in the assertion, 

 that in some parts of the country I could maintain a regiment of soldiers 

 five months of the year ui>on Mushrooms alone. 



"This leads to a remark, which should not be overlooked, upon tbo 

 groat abundance of eatable Mushrooms in the United States. 1 think it 

 is Dr. Eadham who boasts of their xmnsual number in Great Britain, 

 stating that there aro thirty edible species in that kingdom. I cannot 

 help thinking that this is an nnder-estimate. But if the doctor is 

 correct, there is no comparison between the number in your country and 

 this. I have collected and eaten forty species found within two miles of 

 my houFO. There are some others within this limit which I have not yet 

 eaten. In the catalogue of tho plants of North Carolina, you will notice 

 that I have indicated ono hundred and eleven (111), species of edibio 

 Fungi known to inhabit this State. I have no doubt there are forty or 

 fifty nKiro, as the alpine portion of the State, which is very extensive and 

 varied, has been very little explored in search of Fungi. 



" In October. li-BG, whilo on the Cumberland Mountains in Tennes- 

 see, a plateau less than 10.0 feet above the valleys below, although with 

 little leisure for examination during the two days spent there, I 

 counted eighteen species of edible Fungi. Of the four or five which I 

 collected there for the table, oil who partook of them, none of whom had 

 before eaten Mushrooms, declared them most emphatically dehcious. 

 On mv return homeward, while stopping for a few hours at a station m 

 Virginia. I gathered eight good species within a few hundred yards of tbe 

 depot And so it seems to be throughout the country. Hill and plain, 

 mountain and valley, woods, fields, and pastures, swarm with a profosion 

 of good nutritious Fungi, wbic i are allowed to decay where they spring 

 up because people do not know how, or are afraid, to use them. By those 

 of 'us who know their nse their value was appreciated as never before 

 during our late war. when other food, especially moat, was scarce and 

 dear Then such persons as I have heard express a preference for Musb- 

 rooms over meat had generaUy no need to lack grateful food, as it was 

 easily had for tho gathering, and within easy distance of their homes ix 

 living in tho countrv. Such was not always the case, however. 1 re- 

 member on ono occasion during that gloomy period, when there had been 

 a protracted di-ought. and flei^by Fungi were to be found only in damp 

 shaded woods, nnd bnt few even there. I was unable to find enough of any 

 one species for a meal ; so. gathering of every kind. I brouKht hom« tWr- 

 teen difl"erent kinds, had them all cooked together in one grand pot-pourri, 

 nnd made an excellent supper. Among theee was the Chautarelle. upon 

 which I would say a few words in confirmation of what I havo already 

 said upon the varying qualities of Mushrooms indifferent regions and 

 localities Yon have somewboro written of this Mushroom as being s«> 

 hi-'hlv-esteeined a delicacy, that it is much sought for when a dinner of 

 state is Hiven in London. Can this be because it is a ranty? (for nothing 

 common and easilv obtained is deemed a delicacy. I believe), or because 

 von have it of finer flavour in England ? Here, where it abounds, no one 

 seems to care at all for it, and some would forego Mushrocms enUrely 

 rather than eat this. It certainly varies much in quality as I have occa- 

 sionallv found it qmte palatable, and again, though cooked in the same 

 mode, "verv indifferent. I have been unable to ascertain whether this 

 difference is due to locality, exposure, shade, soU, moisture, or tempers- 

 tnre. That soil has much to do with the flavour of some species of 

 Mushrooms I am well convinced. In a parcel of Pink GiUs I have some- 

 times found one or two specimens, though perfectly sound, otBtich 

 unpleasant odour and taste as would spoil a whole dish. So a'f ^. T»\^*Ji® 

 Snowball (A.arvensis). of which I amnually find a few beaut ful speci- 

 mens growing near my residence, upon a grassy turf which covers j^ 



specimens of the identical species which are of ^\^'' .^V^'^'^'^^Snl 

 to that of the best Mushrooms. As I have before intimated the varying 

 flavour of Mushrooms growing on different kinds of wood, so here, 1 bup- 



