October 1*, lfi69. ] 



JOURNA.C OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



301 



The less the ground is meddled with oroand CoDifers the 

 better, and thia applies especially to the Wellingtonia, which 

 produces roots close to the surface, as do many of the Spruce 

 and Silver Fir class. Perhaps Ciipiossus roots go deeper, 

 C. Lambertiana being often tap-rooted, and if so, it is the 

 better for the tree, which is then supported against the wind, 

 and It may suffer less th»n others, but I recommend as Utile 

 stirring of the soil as posiible, for I have seen more than one 

 death from that cause. 



Since v/riting the above, the article of Mr. Mnyo, from 

 Shalstoue, has appeared iu thia Journal (page 'i'il), stating that 

 he has a fine tree 20 feet liigb, of corresponding spread of 

 branches, and perfectly healthy and vigorous. I can only re- 

 peat what I have said before, that I am very glad of this, and 

 hope the number of those who have to report a contrary state 

 of things may be few, and such as not to aiifect the general 

 good character of the tree. Nevertheless, if there be any euch, 

 it is quite as important (if not more so) to hear of their dis- 

 asters as to be told of others' successes. As thoro is always 

 more pleasure in reporting a favourable state of things than 

 the contrary, those who have been unfortunate are entitled to 

 the greater share of credit when they boldly state their ca?e. 

 They afford quite as much, if not more, useful information to 

 the public at large by doing so. The specimens alluded to as 

 being 20 feet high may, perhaps, not have yet reached the 

 point at which disease sets in. We have a fine tree here 

 about that height, with clusters of cones upon it, while others 

 much higher do not show any signs of bearing. For their not 

 doing so I am not sorry, as it must impair their growth. 



The specimen of Gupreasus Lambertiana, 39 feet high, and 

 with a spread of 30 feet in diameter, mentioned by Mr. Mayo, 

 is certainly a fine tree, and exceeds one of the same kind here, 

 although in point of height the two are about the same ; but 

 the tree here suffered severely from the frost of January, 1867. 

 Before that time it was sb densely clothed with foliage, that in 

 walking round the eye could not detect, without the band hold- 

 ing some of the branches, a twig thicker than a pencil ; it has 

 partly recovered, but is far from being so fine-looking a tree 

 as it was before that time. A Pinus insignis near it also 

 suffered in a similar manner, bat has since recovered, while 

 another tree of the same species, about CO feet high, a little 

 way off, escaped unhurt ; and au Araucaria brasilieneis, not 

 often met with out of doors, also escaped that winter with no 

 more injury than is experienced in other years. It is not, how- 

 ever, an out-door tree, and is far from being happy-looking. 



In conclusion, I again invite reports on the well or ill-doing 

 of the V/ellingtonia from all quarter.-*, especially where the 

 trees have been planted ten years or more. — J. Eobso>;. 



FORCING PLANTS.— No. 2. 



But few having houses specially set apart for forcing, and 

 the plants to be forced having to be grown and flowered along 

 with other plants, it will be necessary to make a few obser- 

 vations on this subject. A cool greenhouse with a night tem- 

 perature not exceeding 40°, is a good place for the majority of 

 hardy shrubs and plants, for tlie first three weeks or month of 

 their being taken under glass for forcing. For at least a fort- 

 night they ought not to have a higher temperature, but be 

 slowly excited into growth, and thou they may safely be placed 

 in greater heat — say in a warm greenhouse or cool stove, giving 

 them when first introduced the coolest part of the house, and a 

 position well exposed to light and air, and removing them to a 

 warmer part as they advance in growth. They ought never to 

 have a temperature exceeding .55° at nifht, and for most pLants 

 50° at night will be sufficient to bloom them strongly and well. 



Persons having vineries where forcing is commenced in 

 January, and where other houses are started at monthly in- 

 tervals, will not have much diflioulty in forcing plants. All 

 hardy shrubs or plants succeed with the treatment given Vines 

 in forcing. The heat is low to begin with, abundance of air 

 anda moist atmosphere are afforded, and the temperature being 

 progressive, is well suited to them, as they, for the most part, 

 flower before the temperature is so high as to draw them up, or 

 the shade of the Vines becomes so great as to deprive them of 

 the light needful to become strong, well-flowered plants. The 

 plants should h?.ve positions near the glass, and if the houses 

 are lean-to's, or the light strongorfrora one point than another, 

 the plants should be frequently turned round to keep them 

 from bee iming one-sided. 



Peach houses, too, are excellent for forcing hardy plants and 



shrubs. If these be placed in the bouse when forcing is com- 

 menced, they will flower even better than those in a vinery, 

 from the greater ventilation and lower temperatnra of the 

 Peach house. 



Plants for forcing should be of the best possible description — 

 stiff, strong, compact, well-grown plants, with the growth of 

 the previous year well matured, well set with bloom-buds, oriJ 

 herbaceous plants having the crowns or buds plump and round, 

 not narrow and pointed; and they ought to be established in 

 pots at least one year, or so recently transplanted that they 

 may early in autumn, or at the end of summer, be moved with 

 good balls, and potted without depriving them of more fibres 

 than can well be avoided. Evergreens are best potted in Sep- 

 tember, if the growths are mature and the buds fully developed. 

 They should be well attended to with water, and the pots 

 plunged in coal ashes in a warm, sheltered situation. De- 

 ciduous shrubs ought not to bo removed until the leaves turn 

 yellow and begin to fall; then the sooner they are potted the 

 better, placing them in a sunny situation, and giving a good 

 watering to settle the soil about the roots. Both decidnons 

 and evergreen shrubs will thus be better prepared for growth 

 and blooming than if t»keu up, potted, and placed at once in 

 the forcing house. 



Iu November, before severe weather, they ought to be taken 

 under glass, especially the evergreens, placing them in a cool, 

 airy, and dry house, such as an orchard house, or unhealed 

 vinery. There the evergreens should remain, with no more 

 water than is sufficient to keep the soil moist and the foliage 

 fresh, whilst the deciduous shrubs may be kept dry rather 

 than wet, always taking care not to allow the wood to shrivel 

 from dryness, or the buds to shrink. In severe weather the 

 pots should have some dry hay or litter placed round them. 

 From this house they could be drafted into the forcing house 

 at intervals, not moving them, however, when frozen, for the 

 less they are handled at such times the better, and if they must 

 be moved, let them be slowly thawed, by placing them in the 

 next cooUst place to that from which they were taken. 



If there are not cool houses, or cold pits, which answer 

 nearly as weU as houses, much may be done by placing the 

 plants under the shelter of a wall, plunging the pots in ashes 

 of spent tan, .and in severe weather protecting them with mats 

 or other materials ; and though such means are but a poor sub- 

 stitute for glass, it is far better than allowing in severe weather 

 the roots to be frozen, and the tops to remain unprotected 

 from snow and frost. It was formerly thought advisable to 

 expose Vines to frost in winter, but the practice is now ob- 

 solete, and so it will be iu a short time with forcing plants. 

 Severe weather does no good to plants intended for forcing, and 

 though growth may be rapid after the exposure, the sudden 

 transition is not generally followed by a continued vigoni of 

 growth to the flowering period. 



It is almost superfluous to state that the earlier forcing is 

 commenced the worse the plants will flower, and the slower 

 they are forwarded, particularly iu the early stages of the 

 forcing, the greater will be the chance of success. The plants 

 ought to be placed in a cool house for a fortnight, then in a 

 house with a temperature of from 40° to 45° from fire heat, 

 and then in one of from 45° to 50° ; and if they are not then 

 in flower, or will not be within another week cr fortnight, they 

 may be placed in a night temperature of 55°, which is sufficient 

 forcing for every kind of hardy plant. A fortnight should be 

 allowed the plants in each of the temperatures mentioned. In 

 the cool house they should be kept rather dry, but when placed 

 where fire beat is applied, they should be lightly sprinkled 

 overhead with water twice a-day, morning and evening, and 

 the floors, walls, and other surfaces spiinkled with water twice 

 or thrice a-day, in order to secure a moist atmosphere. The 

 water should be of the same temperature as the house, and 

 sprinkling the plants should bo continued until the flower bnds 

 show colour and are about half developed, but the floors, &c., 

 fhould be sprinUed until the plants are iu flower, when they 

 ousiht to be moved to a cooler and drier house, as condensed 

 moisture is apt to discolour them. A house with a temperature 

 of from 45° to 50° at night is most suitable. 



Air should be given freely, but not so as to suddenly lower 

 the temperature, for the leaves being grown in heat aro more 

 susceptible of cold than when they are formed in thn open air. 

 The more air the plants receive, tlie less liable they will be to 

 become drawn up, and a little air at night improves their 

 health and vigour, as well as the colour of the foliage. In frosty 

 weather little air will be needed, whilst in mild and doll 

 weather it should be freely given, as the plants then grow more 



