November 11, 1869. ] 



JOURNAL OF HOBTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



383 



remain two or more years in one place it covers mnch gronnd 

 and flowera most profusely. It may not be generally known 

 that thia makes an admirable pot plant. I once took Tip a few 

 plants from the garden at tnis time of the year, potted them, 

 and kept them in a cold frame until February, when all the 

 old growth was cut off, and they were placed in the greenhouse 

 on a shelf near the glass ; they grew remarkably fast, and soon 

 produced a profusion of flowers. They are most suitable for 

 snapending where the sbnnts can hang at ease all round the 

 pots. — Thomas Record, Lillisden, Hawkhurst. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GAHDEN. 



Wheel mannre npon vacant ground when the weather is 

 suitable, and when it can be done without injuring the walks ; 

 also turn np all spare gronnd so aa to expose it to the action of 

 the weather. For land that has been long cropped with vege- 

 tables, a dressing of fresh loam would in many cases be pre- 

 ferable to m«nnre, and where it is wanted it should be ob- 

 tained, in order that advantage may be taken of frosty days for 

 ■wheeling it upon the gronnd. Where fresh soil cannot be 

 obtained, charred vegetable refuse, such aa pranings of shrub- 

 beries and edginga of walks, may be cheaply made to form an 

 excellent substitute. 



FRUIT GARDEN. 



Do not let Pears become overripe before being used ; also 

 look over the whole stock aa often as time can be spared, re- 

 moving any frnit that exhibit symptoms of decay, and put them 

 aside for immediate use. Any of the choicer varieties of Peara 

 that do not ripen properly in the fruit-room should be removed 

 to a warm dry room for a few days ; this will be found to 

 greatly improve them. Keep all fruit aa cool and dry aa 

 possible ; if frost is excluded from the house the air can 

 scarcely be too cool when the object, is to preserve fruit plump 

 and Bound as long as possible. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



Dahliaa killed down to the gronnd should be taken np and 

 placed roots upwards under cover to dry, preparatory to being 

 stored for the winter. Chrysanthemums, which are everywhere 

 flowering finely this season, must receive careful attention so 

 aa to preserve their beauty as long as possible. See that coarse- 

 growing plants which may be encroaching upon their weaker 

 neighboura are reduced so as to occupy their proper places. 

 Valuable plants, as variegated Hollies, Rhododendrons, &c., if 

 not growing as freely as it is desirable that they should do, 

 would be benefited by a liberal allowance of rotten manure or 

 well-decayed leaf mould applied as a top-dressing, covering it 

 with a little fine soil, and working it into the ground around 

 the ball towards the extremities of the roots. Rhododendrons 

 and what are generally termed American plants, bear removal 

 so well that these where not growing satisfactorily should be 

 taken up, the gronnd well prepared by a liberal addition of 

 peat or leaf soil, and replanted. Gladiolus bulbs may now be 

 planted ; choose a warm, thoroughly drained situation, work the 

 soil well by deep digging, and add plenty of rotten mannre; 

 elevate the bed or patch a few inches above the gronnd level; 

 plant the bulbs 5 or 6 inches deep, and inches apart, sur- 

 rounding them with 1 inch of sand before covering them with 

 soil; and protect during the winter against excessive wet and 

 frost with a thick layer of sawdust, old tan, dry litter, an old 

 carpet, thatched frames, or tarpaulin. The last three coverings 

 must be removed during favourable weather, and the other 

 coverings should be entirely cleared off when the plants appear. 

 Ranunculuses may also now be planted. The situation of the 

 beds should be cool and somewhat moist, at the same time 

 there should be good drainage. The most suitable soil is a hazel 

 loam. If, therefore, the natural soil be unsuitable, remove 

 it to the depth of about 2 feet, and to the width of 4 feet, re- 

 placing it with rich loam from an old pasture ; this ought to be 

 firmly trodden in, and should form the foundation and principal 

 portion of the bed. Next should come a liberal dressing of 

 well-decayed mannre, mixing it a little with the under soil ; 

 and over this, for the top of the bed, should be a layer of soil 

 6 inches deep for planting the tubers in. The soil for this pur- 

 pose should be stiffish fibrous loam, mixed with well-decayed 

 cow dung and leaf soil. Draw drills inchea apart and 2 inches 

 deep, with a small hoe, and plant the roots 4 inches apart, with 

 the claws downwards, gently pressing them into the soil. The 

 crown of the tubers should be at least l; inch under the surface 

 of the bed. 



OKEENHOngE AND CONSERVATORY. 



During weather like the present these structures will require 

 very careful management. The best plan is to keep as low a 

 temperature, and the air aa dry, as can possibly be permitted — 

 say a heat of from 40" to 45" at night, allowing it to rise a little 

 in the day. In the mixed greenhouse let the young stock of 

 Heliotropes, Pelargoniums, Cyclamens, and other flowers 

 grown especially for winter, have light situations and regular 

 attention as regards watering. The forcing-pit must proTide 

 at the proper season such plants as Rhododendrons, Azaleas, 

 Persian Lilacs, Sweet Briars, Moss Roses, Sedums, Ralmias, 

 Daphnes, Anne Boleyn Pinks, bulbs, &e. It the heat is 

 furnished by fermenting materials, keep down accumulating 

 damp and mouldiness by an almost constant ventilation, iE- 

 creasing the linings in order to raise the necessary temperature. 

 Those who possess pita warmed by hot water will, of course, 

 pursue a somewhat different course. Attend carefully to speci- 

 men harjwooded plants which it may be necessary to winter in 

 the conservatory ; most of these are impatient of fire heat and n 

 confined atmosphere. Use no more artificial warmth, therefore, 

 than is absolutely necessary. Take advantage of mild days to 

 give air freely to cold pits, and keep the plants very sparingly 

 supplied with water at the roots, so as to prevent the pro- 

 duction of weak wood full of sap. Look frequently over any- 

 thing subject to the attacks of mildew, and apply sulphur the 

 moment this pest makes its appearance. See, also, that every- 

 thing is perfectly free from insects. It there is any prospect 

 of a scarcity of bloom in May next, a portion of the Achimenes 

 and Gloxinias should be repotted at once and placed in gentle 

 heat, choosing such as have been longest at rest, and a few Cle- 

 rodendrons ; Allamandas, a plant or two of Ecbites splendens, 

 and Dipladenia crassinoda may also soon be started, but unless 

 there are plants of these with well-ripened wood, and that have 

 been some time at rest, there will be nothing gained by at- 

 tempting to start them for some time, tor in most cases it is 

 difficult to maintain a sufficiently warm temperature to secure 

 free growth if the plants have not been well prepared for an 

 early start. A gentle bottom heat of about 80" or 85" will be 

 of service by inducing healthy root action, and if thia can bo 

 secured there will be little difficulty about obtaining free 

 vigorous growth. Let Ixoras and all other hardwooded plants 

 that have made sufficient growth be kept rather dry at the 

 root, in order to check their growth and induce a tendency to 

 form bloom buds, but do not let the soil in the pots become so 

 dry as to affect the foliage. The conservatory being now gay 

 with Chrysanthemums and other plants in flower, care mnst 

 be taken in the very first place that all drip from the roof be 

 avoided. To prevent drip, very little water must be applied 

 in any way ; give only that which is absolutely necessary at 

 the roots. However, under these circumstances a very moderate 

 amount of atmospheric heat must be afforded, for wherever 

 heat is allowed there must be moisture in the atmosphere, 

 otherwise the plants will soon show marks of debility ; there- 

 fore, the proper conservatory management from the end of 

 November until the early part of February, is to keep ae low a 

 temperature as possible consistently with the main object in 

 view — viz., enabling plants with duly organised buds to develope 

 their blossoms in a proper way. — W. Keane. 



DOIXG.S OF THE LAST WEEK. 



We have had a very busy week, but the work has been chiefly 

 a repetition of that of the last few weeks. 



In the kitchen garden Cabbages were earthed-up. Endive not 

 required to be blanched uncovered carefully. Mushrooms in 

 open sheds covered up more to protect them from the cold, anit 

 Cucumbers slightly smoked, and syringed next day with weak 

 soft-soap water ni from llO'to 120" — a liquid, by the way, easily 

 made, and which no insect we have met with fancies, even 

 thrips, the worst of all enemies to thoroughly beat, being 

 destroyed by it when persevered with. 



Bear in mind that at this season growing plants will stand 

 less smokinp and washing than in summer. It is difierent 

 with plants at rest. One secret we must let out, as it is too 

 good to be kept, and that is, a comparatively loir night tempe- 

 rature is the great safeguard against insects of all kinds under 

 glass. It will almost master one of the worst of all to destroy 

 — the mealy bug. To thrive, this insect must have a high 

 temperature ; many pounds of tobacco and of sulphur, and 

 bottles of expensive liquids, might be saved if we would only 

 let our plants rest and recover themselves at night. A high 



