THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK 



Location of the Garden 



First, choose an open spot where no large overhanging trees can 

 cut off the Hfe-giving sunshine or absorb the necessarj^ light, or where 

 the roots of trees are likely to enter the rose beds and rob the roses of 

 their own rightful food. It is well to remember that the roots of 

 some trees travel a long way in search of food. If you are fortunate 

 enough to have the choice of soils, select a medium heavy loam rather 

 than a light sandy or black peaty soil, and if it is of a yellow or reddish 

 tinge and has been growing grass for a number of years, so much the 

 better. However, let no one despair because the soil is not just what he 

 could wish, but take heart from the thought that good roses can be grown, 

 with a little intelligent care, in most any soil that is not absolutely acid or 

 alkaline. The best aspect is a gentle slope to south and east, as the rose, 

 in common with most all vegetation, thrives and luxuriates the better for 

 being kissed by the morning sun; and if the chill winds that blow from 

 the north and west are cut off by some friendly building or belt of trees, 

 so much the better. The rose loves a cool moist medium for its roots, 

 but it cannot endure wet feet. To make sure that our roses will not suffer 

 from a water-logged subsoil, test pits should be dug at several different 

 points of the proposed location. These pits should be at least four and a 

 half feet deep. If water stands more than a few inches deep in average 

 weather, the ground should be tile-drained. Should you find it necessary 

 to drain, be sure to do a good job. Put the tile down at least four feet, 

 and cover the top two thirds of the joints with tarred paper. Do not 

 be led into false notions of accelerated drainage by putting gravel or other 

 porous material on top of the tile, as it is a mistake, and leads ultimately 

 to trouble. Refill the ditch with the soil excavated from it and tamp it 

 thoroughly. 



I shall not attempt to advise you about the design of the garden, as 

 that is work for the garden architect, after studying all the local condi- 

 tions. But whether the belt of trees or building previously referred to is 

 in existence or not, I would build a pergola along the north and west sides 

 to shelter the rose garden from the cold winds. This may be as simple or 

 as elaborate as your taste dictates or your purse will allow. The pergola, 

 in addition to furnishing some protection to the garden from the wind 

 and to the rosarian from the hot sun, makes a splendid place for the- 

 various climbing or rambling roses and is a charming feature of any rose 

 garden. Whoever designs the garden should keep in mind certain prac- 

 tical features. Among these are easy means of access for the periodical 

 mulchings; and that narrow beds are to be preferred, because they are 

 more easily worked, it being unnecessary to set foot upon them. Tramp- 

 ing upon the soil in wet weather makes the surface hard and sticky 

 which when dry bakes and excludes the air. 



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