THE HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY OF NEW YORK 



setting about their destruction. Fumigation being impracticable outside, 

 our remedy must be a spray of some soap and tobacco compound, of 

 which there are a number on the market. Aphine, an American remedy, 

 and X. L. All, an English preparation, are both excellent for this pur- 

 pose. Thrips are a great deal more troublesome on the rambler type of 

 rose than on the other kinds. It is a large white thrip which causes 

 the yellow sickly appearance in rambler foliage which is only too common. 

 The same remedies will destroy thrips as are recommended for aphis. 

 Red spider is sometimes troublesome on the outdoor roses, but if the hose 

 is within reach and they be thoroughly and forcefully syringed on the 

 underside of the leaves, the spider will be easily controlled. The rose bug 

 or beetle is a rather disgusting and a very difficult pest to control. If 

 they are not too numerous, handpicking is at once the simplest and most 

 efficient means of destroying them. As they easily fall off, a sheet may 

 b^ spread on the ground and the bushes be shaken over it. After gather- 

 ing the beetles this way they may be destroyed by burning or by putting 

 them in kerosene. Most of the different caterpillars which eat the foliage 

 of the rose may be killed by spraying with arsenate of lead, one half pound 

 to ten gallons of water. This is a safe and effective spray for all the 

 biting insects, and the wise thing to do is to spray early and spray several 

 times through the summer, on the principle that prevention is better than 

 cure. Remember that you are dealing with two kinds of insects, biting, 

 such as the beetles and caterpillars ; and sucking insects, such as aphis 

 and thrips. For those that eat the leaves use a poison, like arsenate of 

 lead, and for those that suck the juices of the plant, tobacco and soap 

 sprays. The larva of the June bug, a large white grub that spends three 

 years in the soil before emerging as the full-fledged bug. sometimes does 

 serious damage by feeding upon the roots of roses. Should you find 

 that they are working at the roots, or that there are many in the beds, 

 make holes about a foot apart and four or five inches deep and pour a 

 spoonful of bisulphide of carbon into each hole, covering it up quickly, so 

 that the gas will diffuse through the soil. 



Fungoid Diseases 



Mildew is naturally the first of these to come to mind and is, perhaps, 

 the worst. Sulphur dusted over the foliage with a bellows is one of the 

 commonest remedies, but liver of sulphur, one ounce dissolved in ten 

 gallons of water, sprayed on the foliage is by far and away the best, 

 both as a cure and as a preventive. Black spot and orange fungus are 

 both very destructive at times, for which the liver of sulphur is the 

 best remedy known to me. Cleanliness and general good cultivation are 

 among the best preventives for nearly all diseases. 



Winter Protection 



Most of the roses require some degree of winter protection if grown 

 north of Philadelphia. The climbing roses will come through the average 



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