lo Jan., 191^-] Propagation of Fruit Trees. 59 



be that the full flow of ascendini;- sap will elaborate the collar buds and 

 cause them to make stroii<;. clean jj;r(Avths. and so form a tree ecjual to one 

 from a pruned ''straight" i.e., an unbranched yearling tree. 



Many propagators prefer pruning \\\)qw similar lines to those practised 

 upon trees when first planted out in the orchard, i.e , leaving three to four 

 branches and cutting them back to within 3 or 4 in. from the main stem. 

 This method is sound when pruning two-year-old trees in the nursery rows, 

 or where there are no buds at the basal part of the branches, or no collar 

 buds to operate ui)on. Hut, where possible, especially with yearling trees, 

 cut back to the basal or collar buds, particularly in the ca.se of almonds, 

 apricots, nectarines, peaches, plums (all kinds), and quinces. 



Another method that may be practised at times, more so upon stone 

 than seed fruits, especially nectarines and peaches, is to reduce the tree 

 back to an inside bud, if any, upon the stem clo,se to where the bud and 

 stock are united, see Fig. 59^, where the position of the bud is shown 



by >- . A line through the stem indicates where to cut. This 



operation is performed the same as when heading back a budded stock to 

 the united bud. The result from such treatment is that a tree, equal to 

 a strong one-year-old from an inserted bud, is produced. 



A very common type in the nursery row is a tree on which the branches 

 on one side are stronger than those upon the other. If the head formation 

 is similar to Fig. 601^?, i.e.. with regard to the number of branches, treat it 

 when pruning, the same as Fig. 60*3:, by cutting the stronger branches back 

 the same length as the weaker ones. Then, during the early part of the 

 vegetative period, and when the stronger shoots have made about 12 in. of 

 growth, check them bv nipping the terminal ends. This will give the 

 weaker ones a chance to pull up. 



When such a type is being planted out in the orchard, the root condi- 

 tions .should receive attention, if necessary (see Fig. 25). The top should 

 receive somewhat similar treatment during the first season as if standing 

 in the nursery row. 



A difficult tree at times to prune is a two-year-old cherry, especially 

 varieties that are free bloomers, and of which the bloom and wood buds 

 are similar. The method of cutting back tO' the basal buds upon the 

 branches should not be practised, owing to the buds, in all probability, 

 being bloom ones. Cherries rareh- break growth from a bloom bud, differing 

 in this respect from most fruits. Therefore, the pruner will need to 

 exercise care. Cut close to the buds, selecting those upon the outside of 

 the branches. It is only upon rare occasions that it is necessary to cut at 

 an inside or upper bud upon a branch to obtain a vertical growth. 



^^ hen pruning, it is just as easv to cut correctlv as incorrectly. It is 

 purely a matter of making one cut. Fig. ^2 shows a pruned tree where 

 the cuts ha\e been carelessly done. Compare this with Fig. 55^ ; the cuts 

 in this ca.se are neatly made, and the tree correctlv pruned. 



Fig- S^(^ is '^ common type of a yearling apple tree carrying a head 

 growth of four branches. The central branch has a somewhat crooked 

 grow^th. and is the one that would, if left, receive the direct flow of 

 ascending sap. To remedv this, and bring about the equalization of the 

 sap, which means uniform growths, it will be necessary to remo^•e the 

 central branch where indicated by line. Having done this, and there being 

 no collar buds, select outside buds upon the three remaining branches so 

 that when cut each branch will be of equal length and form an evenly- 

 balanced pruned head. This, with proper treatment and care, will not 

 only be a perfect specimen of a two-vear-old tree bv the following winter,. 

 but will be framed upon sound lines. 



