THE GUDGEON. 4o 



for instance, Gudgeon arrive in the river Lea, and go 

 a few miles up it, from the Thames, in the Spring, 

 and spawn in May, but the native Gudgeons of the 

 Lea do not spawn till after Midsummer, which leads 

 to the mistake above alluded to ; however, be that as 

 it may, I know that Gudgeons are in the best state 

 for the table in the Spring, or from March and April 

 to May, for, at this season, their chief food is small 

 worms, and the spawn of other Fish, which they find 

 among the small gravel they rout up on the shallows j 

 but, as the weeds grow up, Gudgeons leave the shal- 

 low after spawning, and feed a good deal on the weeds^ 

 which makes their flesh less firm, and, in Summer, 

 their flesh is rather of a bitter taste, or else tasteless j 

 they also then, generally, either burst or stink within 

 a few hours after they are taken out of the water, or 

 during the carrying home, especially in extreme hot 

 weather. Though Gudgeons, in the hot Summer 

 months, are a very indifferent Fish for the table, and 

 not worth their carriage, yet, before their spawning 

 in the Spring, they are (in my opinion) the best small 

 Fish, excepting the Smelt, that the fresh waters pro- 

 duce. They should be cooked in the frying-pan im- 

 mediately, or a few hours after they are caught, and 

 without being scaled or opened ; for, at this season. 

 Gudgeons feed so clean, that there is nothing in the 

 stomachs to offend j therefore, they require only 

 wiping with a damp cloth, the same as is usual with 

 Sprats 3 for, by opening and washing, you spoil them. 

 Many lovers of this Fish, who reside in or near the 



