straits of Messina. 1 5 



straits of Messina was delightful. The colossal Etna exhi- 

 bited in all its glory its snow-capped summit, gilded by the 

 rays of the rising sun, and Messina shone with all the attrac- 

 tions of its splendid situation. The coast of this part of 

 Italy is mostly bare and rugged, the broken outlines of the 

 mountains imparting to the landscape that characteristic 

 peculiarity which makes so deep an impression on the mind. 

 We passed the famous Charybdis, in which a multitude of 

 dolphins were disporting themselves. The neighbouring coast 

 formed a brilliant panorama, and we kept so close in shore as 

 to be able to distinguish the movements of the people. The 

 appearance of our three goodly ships seemed to have attracted 

 the attention of the inhabitants, for they stood in groups in 

 the streets and squares of Reggio and Villa San Giovanni, 

 saluting us by waving their handkerchiefs. When towards 

 the evening we had passed the straits, we could descry the 

 Neapolitan coast as far as Monte Bulgario, in the Bay of 

 Policastro, and distinguish the imposing Stromboli, with its 

 volume of smoke, far on the Western horizon. 



The following morning found us in sight of the small island of 

 Alicudi, situated on the north of Sicily. The estimable captain 

 of the Lucia came on board to take leave, on his return to 

 Trieste. The steamer, being relieved of her burden, made her 

 way briskly towards her destination ; and, before an hour had 

 elapsed, we could perceive nothing but a small streak of smoke 

 in the haze of the horizon. 



With light breezes, we came, on the following day, in sight 



