Closing of the Gates on the Old Mole. 35 



racks, military store-houses, and fortifications, render the ap- 

 pearance of the place peculiarly monotonous, the more so 

 that there are no elegant buildings, or fine shops, on the 

 rock. There was nothing observed, however, to confirm the 

 statement, in a celebrated geographical work, copied by 

 all later compilers, that " most of the houses are painted 

 black, to soften the glare of the sun, and prevent an 

 attacking enemy having a distinct view of the place." 

 The town, which is built in terraces on the side of the 

 rock, is accessible only from three points. The greatest 

 portion of the traffic passes through the so-called Old Mole 

 at the north end, whilst the entrances on the south are 

 generally used by men-of-war sailors only. All are opened 

 at 5 in the morning, and, according to the season, shut be- 

 tween 7 and 8 in the evening, precisely twenty-five minutes 

 after the first signal -gun. This closing of the gate is 

 attended with ceremonies verging on the comic. A broad- 

 shouldered corporal, carrying in his hand a heavy bunch of 

 immense keys, marches, visibly impressed with the importance 

 of his mission, in measured steps, accompanied by a number 

 of red jackets with fixed bayonets, towards the massive town- 

 gate ; the bridge is then, with much ado, drawn up, and the 

 horribly-creaking gate, with great exertion, closed, bolted, and 

 finally locked. After " gun fire " no one can leave the town 

 by the Old Mole ; at 10 p.m., however, and at midnight, a little 

 postern is opened, through which those jolly stragglers, who have 

 forgotten in merry company the measure of time, may slip out 



D 2 



