372 Voyage of the Novara. 



and black races. The natives, however, manifest, outwardly 

 at least, a great respect for the whites, and everywhere draw- 

 aside reverentially when one makes his appearance. 



In the middle of the main street are some Buddhist 

 temples. We were not, however, permitted to enter, unless 

 we consented to take off our shoes. At several of the 

 natives' houses the entrance porch and windows were gaily 

 adorned w^ith plantain leaves. On inquiring of our Cin- 

 galese attendant what was the occasion of this manifestation, 

 he replied in broken English that the inmates were 

 celebrating " ChristQias," wishing probably to express that 

 the natives celebrated a feast analogous to our Christmas. 



The filth and unsavoury odours which prevail in the Black 

 Quarter, and the noise and yelling of the natives, speedily 

 drive visitors back to the European portion of the city, which 

 altogether, with its gloomy, decayed aspect, makes anything 

 but a favourable impression* The public buildings, the 

 houses of the mercantile community, the warehouses, and 

 fortifications, all bear the impress of the Portuguese settle- 

 ment of bygone centuries ; and as its commerce is attracted 

 more and more every year to Galle,* there remains but faint 

 hope that this quaint type will not ere long be effaced by 

 a new style of building, albeit the inliabitants of the capital 

 promise themselves a restored reign of activity and energy, 

 as the result of railway communication with Galle. 



* Tlio value of the produce exported annually from the island (chiefly cocoa-nuts, 

 coir, cinnamon, and colfee), is above .£2,000,000, and tlie imports of Eiu-opoau manu- 

 factures are about the same amuiuit. 



