Travelling Misadventures. 403 



very first station we came to, we had to hire a horse from a 

 resident at an exorbitant rate — the animal belonging to tlie 

 station, and which had been engaged for us, being utterly 

 useless. This gave occasion for fresh delays. The party 

 letting the horses was what is called a native doctor, who 

 assumed the title of "native vaccinator," and bitterly 

 complained, that for his attendance four- days in every 

 week, as required by the law, for the purpose of inoculation, 

 he only received from Government a monthly salary of 

 £2 55. sterling. Whatever deficiency existed in his salary, 

 he seemed determined to make up for in the hire of his 

 horse, which he charged for at the rate of ten shillings for 

 six miles! On the cash being forthcoming, our "native 

 vaccinator" did not disdain himself to take the reins, and, 

 with his own hands, apply the whip to his mare between the 

 shafts of our vehicle. But this mark of distinction was 

 destined, ere long, to cost us dear. Hardly had we proceeded 

 a couple of miles under his care, when the hind- wheels of the 

 vehicle sunk into a rut, whence our .^sculapian steed lacked 

 the strength to extricate us. To complete the sum of our 

 misfortunes, at the very moment we were using our utmost 

 endeavours to replace the waggon on the regular track, it 

 came on to rain heavily, and we were, in a twinkling, wet to 

 the skin. Some thirty young Cingalese, in the full dress 

 of Adam before the Fall, who were standing open-mouthed 

 round the waggon, could only be roused by threats from 

 their passive attitude ; and when, finally, they lent a hand to 



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