2 20 Voyage of the Novara. 



in the middle of the peak, where a rhinoceros was lying in 

 the middle of the stream, while another was browsing on the 

 edge of the forest : they fled snorting away on beholding liim. 

 How different was what we now witnessed on the same spot ! 

 The flat space on the summit, somewhat concave in shape, 

 and sinking gradually away, the deepest part being towards the 

 S. W., whence issues the highest spring in Java, now resembled 

 the bivouac of a detachment of troops. Everywhere were men 

 and horses, with cheerful blazing fires for cooking and warm- 

 ing, while immediately adjoining a strawberry garden filled 

 with delicious fruit, rose a hut for shelter against wind and 

 weather, in which we found a surprising degree of com- 

 fort. Tables, chairs, beds, excellent provisions and drink- 

 ables, were ready for us at an elevation of more than 9000 

 feet above the level of the sea, so that there was nothing 

 wanting which could in any way contribute to our comfort. 

 Even the necessary warmtli was supplied by a huge iron 

 stove, constantly kept supplied with fresh fuel by a Javanese 

 servant, cowering on the ground. This was the more ne- 

 cessary that our systems, accustomed of late to tropical 

 temperature, were unusually susceptible to this sudden and 

 extreme change. In the morning when we left Tjipannas 

 the thermometer even at that early hour marked 70°, while 

 the mercury had now sunk to 48°. 22 Fahr. The longings we so 

 often expressed, during a sojourn for months together on tlie 

 bosom of the ocean, amid the moist, sultry strata of the lower 

 atmosphere, in an almost unvarying Turkish-bath-like tem- 



