480 Voyage of the Novara. 



commercial fleet, the scenery beyond becomes tame. The 

 banks on either side are low, and far as the eye can reach 

 not a single hill is to be seen, not even a rising slope — nothing 

 but a flat alluvial soil, every inch of which seems diligently 

 tilled, or otherwise made useful. 



After we had sailed several miles in the Flirt we came 

 to a branch of the great canal, where we shifted into a 

 smaller but not less elegant boat, the property of Mr. Grray, 

 which drew less water, and in which we were to reach the 

 Jesuit mission. At this season, however, owing to the low- 

 ness of the water, navigation was only continued with great 

 difficulty, and notwithstanding the astonishing dexterity with 

 which our worthy Lau-tu (the old chief) conned our craft 

 through the sharp bends of the river, we were at last com- 

 pelled to halt, and perform the rest of the distance, about 

 two miles, on foot. 



We now found ourselves strolling through fields planted 

 with rice and cotton, through cabbage and vegetable gardens, 

 occasionally even over graves, which rose in mounds here 

 and there along our path. Sometimes in the distance we 

 could descry small villages and solitary farm-houses. 



In Sikkaw^i we found about twenty Jesuits, French and 

 Italians, all of genuine Chinese appearance, with heads half- 

 shaved, long queues stretching to the ground, loose yellow 

 clothes, and velvet shoes with thick cork soles. This had a strik- 

 ing, almost theatrical effect. We were ushered into the recep- 

 tion-room, and there offered refreshment. The conversation 



