Contents. v 



PAGE 



val in honour of the Novara. — Journey to Santiago de Chile. — University. — 

 National Museum. — Observatory. — Industrial and agrieultural sehools. — Pro- 

 fessor Don Ignacio Domey Ko. — Audience of the President of the llepublic. — 

 Don Manuel Montt and his political opponents. — Family life in Santiago. — 

 Excursion trip on the southern railroad. — Maipu Bridge. — Melepilla. — The 

 Hacienda of Las Esmeraldas. — Chilean hospitality. — Return to Valparaiso. — 

 Quillota. — The German colony in Valdivia. — Colonization in the Straits of 

 Magellan. — Ball at the Austrian Consul-general's in honour of the Novara. — • 

 Extraordinary voyage of a damaged ship. — Departure of the Novara. — Voyage 

 round Cape Horn. — The Falkland Islands. — The French corvette Eurydice. — 

 The Sargasso sea. — Encounter with a merchant-ship in the open ocean. — 

 Hopes disappointed and curiosity excited. — Passage through the Azores chan- 

 nel. — A vexatious calm 280 



CHAPTER XXII. 



AN OVERLAND JOURNEY FROM VALPARAISO TO GIBRALTAR, VIA THE ISTHMUS 



OF PANAMA. 



Departure from Valparaiso. — Coquimbo. — Caldera. — Cobija. — Iquique. — Manu- 

 facture of saltpetre. — Arica.^ — Port d'Islay. — Meckmos, or wandering sand- 

 hills. — Chola. — Pisco. — The Chiucha or Guano Islands. — Remarks respecting 

 the Guano or Huanu beds. — Callao. — Lima. — Carrion crows, the principal 

 street-scavengers.— Churches and Monasteries. — Hospitals. — Charitable insti- 

 tutions. — Medical College.- — National Library. — Padre Vigil. — National Mu- 

 seum. — The Central Normal School. — Great lack of intellectual energy.- — Ruins 

 of Cajamarquilla. — Chorillos. — Temple to the Sun at Pachacamac. — River 

 Rimac. — Amancaes. — The new prison. — Bull-fights. — State of society in 

 Peru. — The Coca plant, and the latest scientific examination respecting its 

 peculiar properties. — The China, or Peruvian-bark tree. — Departure from 

 Lima. — Lambajeque.— Indian village of Iting. — Paita. — Island of La Plata. — 

 Taboga Island. — Impression made by the intelligence of Humboldt's death. — 

 Panama. — " Opposition " Line. — Immense traffic. — The Railway across the Isth- 

 mus. — Aspinwall. — Carthagena. — St. Thomas. — Voyage to Europe on board 

 the R. M. S. Magdalena. — Falmouth. — Southampton. — London. — Rejoin the 

 Novara at sea. — Arrival at Gibraltar 3.37 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



FROM GIBRALTAR TO TRIESTE. 



First circumstantial details of the War of 1859. — Alterations in Gibraltar since our 

 previous visit. — Science and Warfare. — Voyage through the Mediterranean. — 

 Messina. — The Novara taken in tow by the War-steamer Lucia. — Gravosa. — 



