Chilean Navy. — Ranchos. 287 



In tlie Larboiir were the screw steamers Maipii and ^5- 

 meralda, and the paddle screw steamer 3fau!e, belongmg to 

 the very insignificant navy of the Chilean Republic. From 

 the barracks we passed up several Quebradas to the ancient 

 ''Cuartel" and Fort Rosario, two buildings remarkable 

 enough in their way, the erection of which dates back to an 

 early age, as they in fact belong to tlie period when Val- 

 paraiso had only 400 population, and was part of the assize- 

 circuit of Casa Blanca. The latter, however, which we pass 

 on the road to Santiago, is still an insignificant settlement, 

 while Valparaiso has become the wealthiest and most im- 

 portant commercial emporium along the whole west coast 

 of South America, and boasts a population of above 60,000 

 souls. There are also in this vicinage numbers of small 

 filthy one-storeyed huts or ranchos built of cane, which seem as 

 though hanging to the acclivities, and are not intended to 

 last any time. As it rarely rains at Valparaiso, and then but 

 little, and the temperature being tolerably mild throughout 

 the year, the poor have little occasion to provide themselves 

 shelter against cold or boisterous weather, or to build strong 

 and solid habitations. Moreover, there is perceptible among the 

 Chilean populace, as among all other Spanish Americans, an 

 innate trait of character, in the shape of indolence and indis- 

 position to labour, as they usually strike work for the day as 



riding out even a heavy storm in the roads, is best proved by the fact, that in the 

 inner harbour there is a floating dry-dock in use throughout the year, which, notwith- 

 standing the occasionally severe weather while we were there, had a three-masted ship, 

 full-rigged, masted and tackled upon it, with repairs of all sorts going on upon her sides. 



