290 Voyage of the Novara. 



cemetery is that of the Protestants, which, like the other, is 

 neatly laid out and kept in excellent order, but on the whole 

 impresses the visitor less by the splendour of the monuments 

 and the elegance of the inscriptions, than by its air of solemn 

 simplicity. 



Not far from the spot where repose their dead is the place 

 of worship of the Protestant community, a slight but neatly- 

 finished edifice of wood, somewhat like the "chapels" of the 

 English colonies. This is a pleasing evidence of the tolerant 

 spirit of the Chilean Government, in strong contrast with 

 most other Catholic states in South America, where religious 

 intolerance of heterodoxy goes the length of prohibitiog all 

 2)ublic profession of their faith. 



Valparaiso is as badly off for fine open squares and monu- 

 mental erections as for promenades. The Government Square, 

 with its neat Exchange, and Victoria Square, with its Theatre, 

 are neither by their antiquity, nor tlieu' general appearance, 

 calculated to make any impression upon the traveller. There 

 is great need of large, good hotels upon the European plan ; 

 and as there are no cheerful, comfortable caf^s, to serve as a 

 rallying-point for the male sex after the business of the day 

 is over, the traveller is usually dependent for society upon 

 being introduced at the different clubs, founded by the vari- 

 ous nationalities.. Of these the German was the finest ; but, 

 in consequence of their beautiful, spacious club having fallen 

 a sacrifice to the recent conflagration, the members had to 

 seek temporary accommodation in rather confined apart- 



