Januojy H, 1875. ] 



JOURNAL OF HORTiOULTURE AND COTTAGE GABDENEB. 



si 



rods dowa, so that the points are brought to a level of the lowest 

 bads. Unless this is done it is quite possible that the eyes at 

 the highest part of the house will start llrst, while those lower 

 down the rod will start weakly or not at all. When it is seen 

 that the eyes are starting regularly the rods must be tied-up to 

 their proper position. In our earliest house this was done, and 

 at the same time the roots received a good application of water, 

 giving a dressing of manure on the surface afterwards to retain 

 the moisture. Future waterings will wash the nourishment 

 out of this dressing down to the roots ; it also encourages the 

 active feeders up to the surface of the border, otherwise their 

 natural instincts are downwards, even if the subsoil is quite 

 unsuitable. 



Dwarf Kidney Beans are not much in request, nevertheless 

 we would grow a few pots of them ; but the space that used to 

 be available for them is now occupied with more valuable 

 plants. We have tried different ways with them, but the best 

 is to sow the Newington Wonder thickly in shallow boxes, and 

 when the seed leaves are fully developed pot the plants deeply, 

 four or five in a 7-inch, using a compost of four parts good loam 

 and one of rotted manure. A good margin ought to be left for 

 applying a rich surface-dressing when the first gathering has 

 been obtained. By watering the plants bi-weekly with manure 

 water, and picking the pods as soon as ready, if they are not 

 required, they keep well for a week in winter if the pods are 

 tied-up in small bundles and the end of the bundle inserted in 

 a shallow dish of water. The plants must be syringed freely 

 to prevent the appearance of red spider. 



OREENHODSE AND CONSERVATORY. 



We grow a very large collection of Chrysanthemums. Some of 

 the varieties flower very early and others late, so that by grow- 

 ing a few plants of each the season is much prolonged, but the 

 latest of the late have been cut over this week. And we have 

 commenced to put in cuttings of all the different sections. The 

 Japanese section is not yet so extensively cultivated as it ought 

 to be. Many good gardeners are yet ignorant of the time of 

 flowering and of their great merit as decorative plants. It is 

 believed by many that they flower late, and some horticultural 

 writers have helped to promulgate this fallacy. Some of the 

 Japanese sorts are amongst the earliest to flower, and some of 

 the varieties are also late. Elaine and James Salter are the 

 fluest and earliest, followed by Fair Maid of Guernsey, a snow- 

 white flower, as big as a soup plate. There are scores of good 

 midseason sorts, but very late are Grandiflora, a splendid yellow. 

 Dr. Masters, Comet, and G. F. Wilson. We place the pots in a 

 sheltered position out of doors in case some of the cuttings fail, 

 and we like to help our friends who have not yet got such a good 

 collection as we have. Cyclamens are throwing up hundreds of 

 flowers, and we find it necessary to look over the plants about 

 twice aweek to remove any mouldy leaves or flowers. One de- 

 caying flower concealed in the centre of a plant makes sad 

 havoc it it is not removed for a week. Primulas are now of 

 great value as decorative plants, but if the flowers are required 

 for cutting the double sorts must be grown. Any plants that 

 showsigns of damping-off have the decaying part dressed with dry 

 lime. The latest-flowering Hyacinths have been removed from 

 the plunging material out of doors into a cold pit, the crowns 

 were covered over with small pots inverted for a few days. We 

 have ceased to grow large plants of stage and fancy Pelargo- 

 niums, as they are not nearly so useful for mixing with other 

 plants in the greenhouse as smaller plants that require no train- 

 ing. Those who find it answer their purpose to grow large 

 specimens should now fix a wire ring round the pot and train 

 the growths down to it. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



We still continue to pot off Zonal Pelargoniums and other 

 plants. Now is the time to take a minute survey of the entire 

 stock of bedding plants, and set-to to propagate those in which 

 there is a deficiency. The first batch of cuttings of Verbenas 

 should be put in. It is best to strike as many cuttings now as 

 will plant the beds. Spring-struck cuttings are far preferable to 

 the old stunted plants that have been kept in store pots through 

 the winter. Went over the grass edgings with a broom, swept 

 the walks, and wiU roll them on the first favourable oppor- 

 tunity ; stones had been swept on to the grass with the snow, 

 and the walks had been injured by sweeping, shovelling, &c. 

 — J. Douglas. 



TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 



Suttons' Miniature Spring Catalogue and Amateur's Guide, 

 1875. — This is a novelty in the way of catalogues, and is a typo- 

 graphical gem of 127 pages, which may be covered by the palm 

 of the hand. 



New Plant Company, Lion Walk, Colchester. — Japanese Bulbs, 

 Plants, and Seeds. 



Dickson & Robinson, Market Place, Manchester. — Vegetable 

 and Flower Seeds. 



Dick Radclyffe & Co., 129, High Holborn, London. — Seeds, 

 Implements, <ic. 



W. Rollisson & Sons, Tooting, near London.— GejicraZ Seed 

 Catalogue. 



J. & G. Lee, Royal Vineyard Nursery, Hammersmith, Loudon. 

 — Catalogue of Seeds, Kitchen, &c. 



J. Dickson & Sous, Eastgate Street, Qiiy&ii&i.— Vegetable and 

 Flower Seeds, £c. 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 

 ♦,' All oorrespondenoe should be directed either to " Ths 

 Editors," or to "The Publisher." Letters addressed to 

 Mr. Johnson or Dr. Hogg often remain uaop3aei unavoid- 

 ably. We request that no one will write privately to any 

 of oar correspondents, as doing so subjects tham to un- 

 justifiable trouble and expense. 



Books (Caiit. Ljoii).— The " Cjttago GarJeaots' Dictioaary " oontiios the 

 information you need. 



Bay Tkee Pkopaoation {A. B. C.).— It may bs propasatoii by layers, 

 cuttings under a hand-f^lags late in Bummer, and by pieces of the root. For 

 winter Cacumber culture see an answer in our last number. 



EiELV PoTiTOES AND Pea9 (17. Bjrn/).— Ross's Early, Fenn's Onwards, 

 and Asli-leaved Kidney Potatoes. L^xtou's Alpha and Ringleader Peas. 



Wild Ginger. — Sir S. Baker, in liia recent work, " Ismailia," says, *' We 

 now left the Fabbo path, and struck off to our left for several miles, over 

 ground that had been cleared by burning, which showed in many directions 

 the crimson fruit of the wild Ginger, growing half exposed from the earth. 

 This is a leathery hard pod about the size of a goose egtj, tilled with a semi- 

 transparent pulp of a sub-acid flavour, with a delicious perfume between 

 Pine Apple and Lemon peel. It is very juicy and rufreshln.:. and is decidedly 

 the best wild fi-uit of Central Africa." A correspondent wishes to know the 

 botanical name of the plant. 



Glazinq without Pottv (J. H. Howard).— Seni us an outline drawing; 

 with an explanatory note. 



CIJ3IEING Roses (St. Edmind). — Yours is a question often asked but dlfh- 

 cult to answer. There is no real perpetual climber that is a good red, though 

 there are some old summer cUmbers, as the old red Boursault. One of the 

 best Perpetuals to be trained against a wall is General Jacqueminot. Any of 

 the strongest H.P.'s, as John Hopper, Charles Lefebvre, Madame Clemence 

 Joigneaux, will do for a wall if not requii-ed to climb too high. Climbing 

 Devouiensis will suit yom- pui-pose very well, and we could recommend you to 

 try Celine Forestier. One of the best plants for a poruh facing north is 

 Clematis Jackmatmi; you might also plant the Ampelopsis Veitchii; the 

 foliages of the two harmonise well together. 



Roses under Glass, &c. (Bti'. E. LiddM).—l, We should adriso Roses 

 to be planted both in boxes and in an outer border, to be trained-in after 

 being established, those in boxes in the house supplying bloom in tho hrst 

 instance. 2, The foliage wiU not hurt if restramed within bounds and if 

 properly syringed. Roses in a house want plenty of ventilation — i.t-., not 

 draughts, but air and hght. 3, Marechal should be your standard dish— no 

 other Rose is so well worth growing in a house. Celine Forestier, Chmbing 

 Devoniensis, Madame WiUermoz, and any of the strong-growing Tea^ are 

 also worth growing. We do not know of any red cUmbing Rose for a green- 

 house, though very likely Cheshunt Hybrid will succeed. 



CoPKOsjii Baoeriana variegata Propagation (J. S. B.).— This, as you 

 say, is one of the most beautiful of variegated plants, either for summer 

 bedding or greenhouse decoration. It is rather difficult of propagation, doing 

 best from layers, which should be made from now to March, tongueingthemas 

 for Carnations, and securing with pegs. By autumn they will be well rooted, 

 and may then, or in spring, bo detached from the pai-eut and potted singly, 

 keeping rather close and moist until they are growing freely. It is also pro- 

 pagated by cuttings in spring, taking oil the points of the shoots with two 

 joints and the growing point, msertiog in sandy loam with a little thoroughly- 

 reduced leaf soil or sauly peat intermixed, the pots being well draiuei.and 

 the surface half an inch deep of silver sand. They requir*e to be placed in a 

 gentle bottom heat of 75-, and kept close, moist, and shaded until well rooted. 

 Avoid making tho soil very wet, or tho cuttings will turn black. They also 

 strike in a close frame in August without bottom heat, shading from sun. 



Planting Conifers and Ivy (if. B.).— The best time to plant Conifers is 

 in autumn, the first moist weather after the end of September and up to the 

 fii-st severe weather of winter. The next best time is from the middle of 

 February, weather being mild up to their beginning to grow. These latter 

 remarks apply to young trees and such as have been frequently transplanted. 

 We have transplanted a great number of Conifers, and find they are moved 

 quite safely in early April, or when thoy are beginning to grow ; but it is 

 necessary, if the weather continue dry, to water occasionally, and if the sou 

 be dry at planting give a good watering at the time of planting, and it 

 showers fall frequently for a few weeks they will seldom r-quure any more. 

 Ivy is best planted in February, or so soon after as the weather is mild, and 

 up to its commencing to grow. The quickest-growing subject for a hedge as 

 shelter to a Rose garden will be Evergreen Privet, but it is of no nee for turning 

 cattle. A Thorn or quickset fence is best for that pui-pose, and it may be 

 made semi-evergreen by planting a Holly iu every yard along with the quicks. 

 The sweetest hedge we ever remember having seen for a screen was Sweet 

 Briar, the plants being planted a foot apart, and it was cut like any other 

 to keep it trim. 



Vines and Peach Forcing {J. 17.).— Vines when very early forced to be 

 ripe in April and May are better for bottom heat, and especially the outside 

 border if any. The pipes will need to be as many as for top heat, and in a 

 chamber beneath the border. With the border mostly inside, for both the 

 Vines and Peaches bottom heat is unnecessary, as we stated in a former reply, 

 to have fruit in May and June. We meant six rows of pipes including the 

 returns — two flows and one return along both sides of the house, but it 

 would not be other than an advantage to have two flow and two return pipes, 

 or you may have the three or four pipes, whichever you employ, on the level, 

 one of which will only require to be a return pipe. Half at least of the pipe 

 surface should be tronghed for holding water for evaporation. We should 

 not plant the Vines as a vineyard, but confine them to the rafters, the roof 

 being wired at 16 inches distance from the glass, and the Vines 8 feet 6 inches 

 to 4 feet apart. Jersey or Guernsey offers no advantages tor forcmg Vines. 

 The main thing is a fayourabla climate (rse from emoks and obnoxious gases 



